Jim Shepard

I've recently come by a horn relay that I want to put on my B2B. It didn't have one originally but when I converted the truck back to 6V the horn didn't work (it did when the truck was 12V). It was suggested on this site that a horn relay might solve the problem. My question is: how does it hook up? It has 3 terminals marked 'B' 'H' and 'S' I haven't been able to locate a wiring diagram showing a truck with a horn relay, although I've read that all trucks with dual horns had them. As I said, my truck is a half-ton (single horn) and didn't come with a horn relay.

My plan is to overhaul the 230 and put it in my B2B. I'd like to score a triple manifold but I think one of those (if they exist) will be really expensive. As an alternative, I'm thinking about having one made out of tubing. At 60 over, cast iron headers and a bump in compression it should move out pretty good. Eventaully, I'd like to find an overdrive unit and put it in. I recently mounted 16" rims and tall tires and that got me about 3-5 mph more top speed. I'm probably doin' about 55mph now.

This was actually quite easy. First, as I said, the truck is a '55 'C' series, not a Pilothouse. That makes a big difference because the pedals are not attached the same way. On the 'C' the pedals are attached to the frame and to the bellhousing via linkage - there is no shaft, per se. I just needed to disconnect the linkage for the clutch. Because this truck also had vacuum-assist brakes, there is no direct connection, linkage or shaft, between the brake pedal and the bellhousing. Everything goes to a vacuum cannister mounted on the fender well. So, after unbolting the bellhousing from the tranny (4 bolts) the motor just lifted right out. Because I had a leveler on my hoist, I didn't need to remove the nose or fenders, just the hood. Once it was out I unbolted the bellhousing from the motor, put it back on the tranny, lowered it back down and bolted it in. Slicker than snot on a doorknob...

Pretty cool. I can hardly wait...

Great!

It's out of a '55 ('C' Series) one ton truck. I'm no expert but, doesn't all this carburation stuff boil down cfm's? I mean, if I have a motor that will handle a total of 600 cfm, does it really matter whether it's from one 600 cfm four barrel or three 200 cfm carburators, everything else being equal? I'm leaning toward three single barrel B&B's because I like the idea of them squirting fuel directly into the intake ports, rather than traversing down some runners to get there. Seems like that would be the most efficient setup.

My B2B has Fluid Drive also and the clutch pedal wobbles pretty good. It also scrubs against the floor board. The brake seems ok. This may sound dumb but, what is a bushing? I'm guessing its like a short piece of pipe that would slip over the shaft and then the pedal would slip over it to tighten everything up...

This truck is a '55 ('C' Series) and the pedals are on the frame, rather than the bellhousing. It looks like I can just unhook the linkage, support the transmission, separate the bellhousing from the transmission and pull it out. Will the flywheel and clutch plate come with it?

Crap! This is going to be harder than I thought...

Yes, this is a friend's truck. A '55 one-ton. Tha tranny looks like it's bolted to the frame so when separated from the motor its still supported. Greg, you say the motor will just slide off the tranny input shaft. Doesn't the crank have to be unbolted from the flywheel or does it and the clutch assembly come out with the motor? If these are stupid questions, please forgive me... I've never pulled an engine before.

No, I haven't yet experienced my 230 motor. It'll be punched out , probably60 over with cast iron headers and a little higher compression. I thought three stock Carters would be about right. I've never heard of a 'Carter-Weber' carb. Is this a two-throat?

Ok, I'm going to pull the 230 this weekend and I've got a question. I don't want the tranny and all the manuals list removing the tranny as part of the engine removal. The reason I don't want to remove the tranny is because I'll have to put it back in per the owner of the truck. So, my question is: where does it split? It looks like I'll need to unbolt the flywheel from the crank. Is this correct? If so, how do I do that with the motor still in? With that done, does the motor just slide out of the tranny? If so, how far? Also, this is a pretty greasy motor and I can't see all the bolts holding to the tranny. I can see two on each side. Are there any more? If anyone can post a picture of the backside of one of these motors I'd appreciate it. Thanks...

This is exactly the kind of truck I'd put my little 241 hemi in. It looks just rough and molested enough that I wouldn't feel bad about it. Otherwise it might just rot away in some field. It might be the onlt way some of these old Dodges get "saved."

Boy! I'd like to have one of those for my 230...

I wasn't really trying to convince you to stay with the flathead. My point is that when one is faced with a pretty original, unmolested Dodge truck I found it very hard to change it in ways that took away from the originality. Because there weren't that many made and many fewer survived, I think we should keep them as original as is practical. There are many more out there that have been butchered and, consequently, any kind of modification or customizing is better than just letting them rot somewhere. Ford's and Chevy's are a dime a dozen and have many after market pieces available. You can practically build those of the shelf and not even start with a real vehicle.

might as well weigh in on this since I recently went through a fairly thorough restoration. The fact that it wasn't a more complete and true restoration is owing to my initial plan to put a Red Ram Hemi and subframe in my B2B. About halfway through the restoration I bought the motor and because I planned to put a subframe and updated running gear, I didn't do anything to the old flattie or the original drivetrain. Except for cleaning and painting, nor did I touch the suspension - it was all going to go away eventually. After I got the cab to come back from the body shop and was starting to plan the overhaul of the Hemi, it dawned on me that my truck was pretty damned nice to look at. I had purchased a very original, near-complete example that never had a radio, never had a single toggle switch, never had an after-market gauge. It was simply very nice and original. It had been taken care of to the point where many things were still on it that arn't normally found on these trucks. Splash panels and weatherstripping were either partially or fully present. The only thing missing was the outside mirror mounting bracket. It took me seven years to locate one. At this point I decided to stay original, or at least original within my self-imposed limits. I allowed myself a six volt alternator and radial tires. I also, as a concession to my wife, mounted three point seat belts. Had I not started with such a pristine truck I would have continued on down the modification route. As it is, I think my truck now rivals Ron Cenowa's truck that now sits in the Chrysler museum. I still have issues with top speed. I don't want to go much faster - just fast enough to not be as much of an impediment to others on the road. I recently mounted big 16" tires and that has helped. Eventually I will put an overdrive unit in it. As to the motor, I will be putting in a punched out 230 with three single barrel carbs and cast iron headers. While none of this is origional they are all things a smart-elick kid could've done is 1959 or 1960. And they're all things that can be reversed without too much trouble and effort. I haven't butchered anything. Meanwhile, the Hemi will have to wait for another project. Perhaps a deuce coupe or rat rod...

Nothing like a ride in the foothills. I can hardly wait until next spring...

Hey Grey Beard! I'm going to be pulling a 230 out of a '55 and I don't want the tranny. Oncve I've unbolted the bell housing from the block, does it just pull forward a little and then up and out? I plan to remove the radiator and hood and yank it out without dismantling the front and fenders. Will that work?

I would like to second that, too. Especially I like the CD of our trip to Reg's. My truck's even better looking when I watch it go down the road...

I put one in my B2B, mainly because it was recommended by Fifth Avenue for their 6V alternator, which I had purchased. I, too, had to fab a holder because Optima doesn't make one for the 6V, but it worked out fine. I've never had a problem with it or the alternator. I liked the idea of keeping it 6V but I wanted more reliable charging, which the alternator gives me. I've got an old Ford 9N tractor that is 6V and it seems like I'm always buying batteries for it. But, then again, I don't use it that much and it sits all through the winter months...

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grey beard's right. David Turner is a magician with stainless. Here's a photo of mine as I was re-assembling everything. It looks perfect!

I've got access to a 'free' 230 if I want it (which I do). According to my book, the difference between the 218 and the 230 is the stroke - the bore is the same. So, I'm thinking about .06 over for my rebuild of the 230. I would think that if a .09 is available, the .06 would be pretty safe, all things being equal.

Thanks.

Thanks, Job-Rated. That seems to be it. Lubed the drive line and topped off both the tranny and diff. Both were way down. I used almost a whole gal. on both In fact, the diff never did fill to the hole before I ran out of gear oil. Bought some more today and I'll top off the diff in the next day or two. In the mean time, I took it out for a 20 mile run and it didn't make any noise and shifted much smoother.