Jim Shepard

Is that tool even available any more?

Thanks Tod. That's what I was looking for. My backing plate looks the same and I thought those were the right bolts but they also looked a lot bigger than I was expecting...

:confused:Well, I went to do a minor adjustment the other day and couldn't figure out where the adjustment screw was. I've read several manuals and looked at pictures (which are all of the outside with the drum off) and it sounds pretty simple. My problem is I can't see the screw or bolt or whatever it is I'm supposed to adjust. Can someone direct me or post a photo?

I thought Phillips went out of business. Is he still around?

Thanks Rich. After looking at mine a little more and realizing I didn't have the right tool (and knowing my penchant for having seemingly small projects get way out of hand) I decided to have my mechanic do it. He didn't have the right tool either, but he knew how to get around it. Total cost $136.

:confused:I've got a 1950 Dodge pickup with a three speed on the column and fluid drive. It's got a 4:11 rearend which I want to keep. Soon it will have a bored-out 230 with dual carbs, cast iron headers/dual smithy's, and a mild cam. I like the 4:11 for driving I do in the foothills around here but, needles to say, the top speed is a little wanting. I'd like to go to an overdrive unit and I've followed with interest all the discussion on the forum regarding such. One of the things I don't understand (of many...) is whether I should be looking for both the overdrive and the transmission, or whether I can use the three speed that's on my truck.

I've got a Powerflite from a '54 Dodge hemi that I have no plans for. Don't know whether it would bolt up to a flattie...

Thanks for the response guys. As always, good advice on this site...

Ok, looks like I need to replace this seal. Anyone out there ever done this? How 'bout a part number?

Also, check my album on the club website. I documented how I restored these.

I used a friend's BIG forklift. Worked great. http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/shephatchery/Picture948.jpg

Here's my B2B. I'm the 4th owner, having bought it from a woman who lived across the street from the original owners when she was a little girl. After she had grown up she saw the truck one day and followed the guy driving it until he stopped. After confirming it was the same truck she told him to contact her if he ever wanted to sell it. About 6 years later he did. She only kept it about 6 months and sold it to me. It came with the original owner's manual and the dealer service booklet. This was in 1996 and I restore it between 2004-06.

I removed the entire drive line. I've decided to take it to a local drive line specialty shop. That way it can be checked out for balance, etc.

OK, I got the drive line apart. The joint is a combo clip and u-bolt setup. The u-bolt piece came apart pretty easily - in fact one of the roller bushings didn't have any rollers left. It looks like the grease passage gummed up and the thing was completely dry. I've removed the clips from the other two bushings but I can't seem to dislodge them from the joint. The manual says to tap on the drive line but that doesn't work. They're pretty-well stuck. I've sprayed WD40 on them and I'll get back to it tomorrow.

Ok, boys. It looks like I'm in for a joint-job. For the past almost-year I've been getting this strange "clanking" sound coming from under the truck, especially when I start out in first and when starting out in second. I hadn't noticed anything odd about the driveline before but when I was under the truck yesterday I noticed a definite sloppyness in the rear driveline at the universal joint. Less so in the front joint at the transmission. The manual (Crank and Hope) is not very clear (in my mind) on the procedure for fixing this; in fact, I'm not even sure my type of joint is even mentioned. The illustrations don't look anything like my joints. My truck has fluid drive and the rear joint is a combination of u-bolts and clips. I went to the local Napa store this morning and they only listed the all-clip type. The procedure looks fairly straight-forward and I'm going to do it; however, I thought I'd post the question anyway - is there anything I should be aware of or look out for?

Those are two fine looking trucks. Great job guys...

So, what are they and how much did they cost? Also, what other mods to the engine did you do?

So, is there a accepted "ratio" or some other formula that says so many cfm's per cubic inch?

Does anyone here know the cfm of a Carter B&B?

Thanks Greg. I had already thought about the cast iron headers and dual exhaust. I've alredy purchased a couple of Smittys mufflers. Since I'm going to have to fab an intake manifold I had already decided to mount the carbs sideways with the gas lines coming in from the side. I think this arrangement will actually make the linkage go together a little easier.

I got mine from Roberts and it works. I'm not aware of anyone else having it.

I'm posting this on the car side because I figure there's more experience here hot-rodding these L-head motors. Here's my question(s). Given a 230 out of a '54 one-ton and an intense desire (obsession?) to put three single throat B&B's on it, what are my engine build considerations? I'm planning on boring it .060 over and getting a 3/4 cam. Also balancing everything. Is that enough?

I've never seen holes like that. My B2B doesn't have any and I've never seen any in the books. Although I've also never seen any dealer emblems up front, I wonder if it could be that...

I used Steele on my B2B and am quite happy wtih the reselts. The rubber is one molded piece. Very good quality. However, for whatever reason, the wing vent rubber did not fit. I sent them back and used stuff from Roberts, which fit perfectly. Go figure...

We also missed the annual ATHS show in Plymouth, which is always the last Saturday in April. I think that's why we did Sunday last year.