Jim Shepard

I'm about ready to pull my old motor and install the newly rebuilt 230 in my B2B. The old motor is the original 218 and its mated to a 3-speed on the column with fluid drive. My plan is to put the new 230, which was mated to a 4-speed, in front of my fluid drive and 3-speed. Here's my question: will my fluid drive flywheel mate to the 230 crank? As I don't have the 218 out yet, I don't know the number of crank bolts. The 230 has 8 holes but only 6 bolts. Anyone ever done this swap? I think it should work and obviously I'll find out eventually, but I thought I'd ask anyway. I've heard that the only difference between the 218 and the 230 is the stroke, i.e., crank and rods.

Several years ago I ordered all my rubber frome Steele. The only thing that didn't fit (although with mine the holes didn't line up) was the wind wing rubber. I talked with Steele and they said all the gaskets would have the same problem. I ended up sending them back and ordered new ones from Roberts. Otherwise, I'm pleased with Steele.

:)Its the 230. Its been bored .060 over and balanced. Mild cam. It'll have a 2BB Stromberg and manifold from a 50's car and cast iron Fenton headers.

Tim, I should be getting my motor back in the next week or so. You up for a little "mechanic work?"

Eric, After the war with my Dad and his older brother returning home, my grandfather was thinking about some endeavor other than the family farm that they could all support their families with. They hit upon a chicken hatchery and after buying a couple of used incubators they started hatching chicks. By the early 50's they were one of the biggest shippers of baby chicks in the midwest. They also opened a feed/hardware store on the property. The farm is still there and in the family (since 1906), although not a busines anymore. I still go back every couple of years. In fact, my wife and I will be back this year. I still have a couple of uncles (one of whom is sitting in the Pilothouse) and many cousins. My Dad was born on the farm outside Cannelton and my Mom was born in Millstone, about 6-8 miles up river from Cannelton. Jim

Last year a friend gave me one. I thought that was about right...

These are my grandfather's trucks back in Indiana in the early 50's. The Pilothouse is a 1949 3/4 ton.

Check out the club site: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/gallery. I've got some photos posted from my restoration and there are some showing the inner fenders, etc.

On a 230 with the extra water jacket (little bump-out on the front of the head and block), is the water pump different than on a 218 or 230 without the extra jacket?

I had a three-legged Border Collie once who loved to trail ride with me. She'd get a thorn in one of her remaining legs and would run along side of me and my horse on two legs, any of the remaining two - it didn't matter. Front two, two on one side, or diagonally... (sorry for the highjack...).

April 9 works for me. Sent my motor out on Monday to the machine shop: .060 over, mild cam, balanced... It'll run a two BB on a stock intake from a mid-50's MOPAR with Fenton exhaust headers, dual Smitty's and probably go back to 12V. That way if I finally get tired of the 100+ degree heat around here I can install air conditioning... Hope to have this all back together by the BBQ (I may ask for your help Tim...).

If I'm looking for a early/mid-50's MOPAR with overdrive, what should I be on the lookout for? Were these only offered as options or did some cars come with them as standard equipment?

Don't know how big a deal it is, but I thought I'd run this by you first. I have a B2B with a three on the tree. This, in combination with the re-location of the parking brake lever, really opens up the cab for extra room. I don't think I'd ever have three people in my truck at one time, but the extra room would sure make it more comfortable. I have had stuff on the floor and it helps to not have to maneuver around the gear shift...

I found mine at Napa. You might also try a tractor supply business.

While it is true the Pilothouse trucks have no beading/welting, they do use various materials between metal to metal locations. The "nose" section and front fenders have a rubber seal on each side. If you check the parts book on the club website, you'll see this seal on page 12-1 (Fenders and Sheet Metal), Part 12-02-11. This is no longer available; however it is easily made using the appropriate thickness of sheet rubber. In doing my restoration, I simply laid the fender nose down on the sheet and traced the outline. The "beadding" between the rear fenders and the bed can be duplicated using 3M Strip-Calk or similar material. Any materail that squeezes up can be cut off with a razor. At the ends of the running boards where they mount to the fenders there are "anti-squeak" seals (Part 12-02-15). They are no longer available but can be made from the same sheet rubber as with the nose piece. There is also a rubberized welting material mounted to the fender extensions (Part 12-04-36). I was able to locate a similar product and it is simply pop-rivated to the extension panel. The "filler" material grey beard mentioned is available from Roberts and others. If you check my album on the club site, I think I have photos of most of this posted.

They can also be had from Bruce Horkey.

Just curious - how many folks are going to the BBQ at Tim's on the 17th? By the way Tim, let me know if you nees some help setting up or anything. Otherwise I'll just contribute my $20 and let it go...

Merle, what do yopu make of the low-side bed? I thought these weren't available again until 1951.

My favorite part is the Nixon bumper sticker...

What worked for me and seemed to be pretty close to original were a couple of old army belts I found in an antique store.

So Dan, this thing just bolts right up to the bell housing with no mods?

"Oh yes,.. Hemi's pay double, and yellow trucks get in free." Hey! Does that mean 'ol Grey has to pay?

I'll be interested in the answer to this as I'm facing the same issue. I'm going to stay with the truck linkage coming around the back of the motor and up and over the intake somehow. We'll see...

I have a 2BBL setup also and the carb is a Stromberg. My understanding is that its correct for the manifold which, except for the four-bolt and bigger openning, looks just like the 1BBL. I'll be putting that on my 230 for my truck. My plan is for a 0.060 over bore, mild cam, cast iron headers with Smithys. Hope it runs...