Jim Shepard

I've never seen the authority on just how the letters were painted, i.e., just the tops or down the ridges to the tailgate. I had a pin striper do mine.

I got the belts from a local speed shop. There is a piece of plate steel behind the post with a nut welded to it for the bolt.

Plate steel with a nut for the bolt...

Here's what I did...

When I purchased one of Bunn's book new, it had an errata sheet in it explaining that all references to white letter were, in fact, incorrect. All tailgates were painted argent, which is a silver/aluminum metallic color. If one obtains one of these books without the errata sheet, it could be confusing...

Do you have a good photo of your intake manifold?

Thanks Reg. That helped quite a bit (I think...).

Wonder why they don't cover 48-50...

Ok, so the resister is for the coil, not the distributor? Other than the gauges, lights and such, why does the 12V coil need a resistor? Did the originals have them?

Don't know much about electrical stuff so, if this sounds juvenile, bear with me... I know (I think I do...) when converting to 12 volts one of the things to do is put a resister on the distributor to keep the points from burning. Since our flatties were still used after the introduction of 12 volt electrics, can't we simply rebuild the 6V distributor with a kit for the 12V distributor? Or, simply use a distributor from a 1956 or later flathead?

Yeah. I betcha I was doin' 2-3 mph...

Clockwise, right? Thanks...

OK, I've got an old pump. So, if I understand you, after grinding off the gear teeth, you bolt up the pump and then come at it through the distributor hole. Correct? Does it matter which way the drill spins?

Hey Reg! Your photo sure brings back some fond memories. I bet we were "driving" about the same time... [/img]

The first "vehicle" I drove was my Grandfathers Allis-Chalmers Model C tractor. When I was about 13 I'd drive it out to the mail box and get the mail for him. The vehicle I learned to drive in was my Dad's 1951 Henry J. The vehicle that introduced me to my first traffic officer was my Dad's 1957 Studebaker Golden Hawk. He got rid of it shortly thereafter...

Been thinkin' (oh no...). Who's interested in a club plaque for DPETCA? I'm thinking a plaque with a PH on it would be very cool. Check out some of these hot rod plaques: http://www.relicsandrods.com/carclubplaques.htm

Should get my motor back next week. I might give you a call. I also finally figured out the linkage for the 2bb Stromberg and factory intake set up. Now we'll see what kind of fabricator I am... BTW - are you doing the flyer?

It's not a Pilot House, but...

Roberts also has it. Part # T98 - $9.

Thanks Tim. I know it could have been a lot worse.

Me too. Looks like I'll be at the BBQ this April. Should have the motor back in a couple weeks.

Ok fellas... Here's the latest: Apparently I didn't do irreparable damage. I watched the machinist dismantle the motor today and, with the exception of two pistons and all the bearings, I'm good to go (well, except for the previously mentioned oil pump...). No. 1 and 2 pistons got really dry and hot and are no good. Those cylinders will hone up fine and the 1 and 2 crank journals buffed up good. The cam gear has a couple burrs that can be filed down. As to how this happened, I wish I knew. I also think it's unlikely it went into gear by itself. I had towed this truck a couple times before just like this without incident. Anyway, I'm pretty pleased - I "Dodged" a bullet. Here's some photos...

The tires are 29" tall...

As luck would have it, I had filled the engine with oil a couple of weeks before. So, barreling down the road I was lubricating the engine, but it was still spinning too many revs (my machinist thinks maybe 5-6,000). The pump gave out, froze up and stopped lubricating. No. 1 and 2 pistons got scorched and we'll see tomorrow how much damage I did.

Your yard is statrting to look like Tim's. Next you'll be sponsoring the midwest version of our DPETCA BBQ...