Big50Dodge

Sky is the limit here. With it being stuck, you don't know if the cylinders are any good. I had a stuck engine, took it apart, and sent it to machine work. They called after about an hour saying they would have to sleeve one of the cylinders to the tune of about $800 - then start the rebuild. I still have the engine (not put back together) behind my parents barn. Lets say the cylinders are good but have to be cleaned up (bored .010 then honed - minimum amounts). Has it been rebuilt before and was bored to maximums..? Your back to resleeving it which gets expensive quick. Carefully take apart what you can - measure what you have, and make the best guess decision from there - keeping the machine shop in the loop.

Can I drag up this old topic with a slight curve... I have an occasion to use https://www.etrailer.com/question-230998.html and while they say they are safe, I wonder. The 2 inch ball for the base, it still has a limit. Putting the 2 5/16 'cover' over it still has the 2 inch ball strength..? there comes a question - has anyone ever broken a 2 inch ball..? What type of forces are at work to do that I wonder. I must move my trailer (8800 #) and I have to rent a truck to do it. The truck will definitely tow the trailer weight safely, yet it has only a 2 inch ball -welded- to the back of it. I must do it - I don't feel comfortable doing it - but my choices are do it or not - and I must move my trailer. Key words here are 'I' & must.. i'm not a trusting soul to let someone else do it (hence renting the truck). So what's the 'capacity' for breaking a 2 inch ball. has anyone done it & what were the circumstances when it happened.. ? Has anyone used the ball adapter above..? Thoughts/comments on that use..? thanks

I'm way interested - However (there is always one of these)... :-) I'm likely moving fall of 2019, so that would mean moving it now, and then again in about 8 months. You are probably 2000 miles from me... the good news is ; I'm likely moving closer. At the very least, it's a treasure trove of parts I could use here and there on mine. If you still have it summer of 2020 - let me know.

Awesome truck !! How did that Dakota (?) Tundra (?) pull it...? I too would be interested in the total weight of that tow. Hope you didn't have to pull it too far to get it home.

Home depot, Lowes, maybe your local Ace hardware, or similar. Just use a 2x4 - with the 4 dimension vertical. Use blankets or such on your fenders to keep the scratches to a minimum if that matters to your paint. Add a shorter block to either end if it tends to 'tip' to one side or the other. Fenders should hold fine if you stretch the weight of the motor across the entire fenders (get a long enough 2x4). Use a chain or a cable from the motor to the 2x4. I did this many years ago for swapping motors in both a Plymouth and a dodge with a slant 6. Motor weight on a slant might be less, but as Merle stated, your not holding the entire weight of the engine on this device - although it probably would do just fine with the entire weight of the engine.

Welcome Redhot - My truck is a 1.5 ton, so it could be drastically different than your newer 2 ton, and it has been a number of years since I did any work on my brakes. faced with a similar issue to yours (not finding the stepped Wheel Cylinders anywhere), I just went with something similar (not stepped) from Wagner products. They fit fine and did stop the truck a few times before the master cylinder quit. I had the master sleeved from an independent guy in Agawam, MA. He Did an excellent job; used stainless steel If I remember correctly ; not certain he is still doing it, but if he is, it is close to $100 for the service. Send the rebuild kit and he will do the entire rebuild for you. Unfortunately, I've moved 3 or 4 times since I've used him and do not recall his name / no idea if I still have paperwork for him. I found him via a google search for machine work - but I have to admit, it was difficult to find him. His information could still be available on the web. Good luck.

Since you said 'new it is', are we beating a dead horse at this point..? That said.... There should be a date code stamp in every tire. I worked for Montgomery Wards (remember them ?) in 1978 & 79 doing tires. I used to know how to read the date code at that time, but as usual, things change, and I got older. Long forgot how to read the date code - assuming it is still in the same 'pattern' of back then. I know batteries also have a date code, but unsure if the date codes are similar to tires or not. Most (any reputable ?) tire shops will not put a 10 year old tire on any rim. Not knowing the date codes - choices would be - read up and figure it out prior to purchase, or as others suggest, go for the new. (or another option ??) I mostly- agree with Plymouthy Adams on the rotation thing. I always do my rotations front to rear, maintaining same side - never an X pattern. The theory I've heard is, the belts bend in a specific way when cornering based on the side of the vehicle. When doing the X rotations, the belts now bend opposite of what they have been doing for some amount of miles. This would be similar to bending a piece of metal back and forth. Exactly how many times do you think any one of those wires that make up the belts will take to break..? That would be the amount of times you could X rotate your tires. YMMV.... If someone knows or figures out the current tire date nomenclature - please share.

I drive past the exit to this place about once a month. I'm typically on a schedule when driving past, but it's only about an hour from me - maybe I'll make time to take a leisure drive up there one day. Looks like decent stuff, but at close to $5 per foot for 5/16 and over $10 per foot for half inch (vacuum lines for brake boosters for example), yes, it's pretty spendy. My truck is the same except a '50 (B2) instead of a 49 (B1) and uncut. unfortunately, I've been moving around the country due to Job for the last 6 years, and except for running my truck annually, I haven't done anything to it / For it. Life happens.

Not sure you will like my answer, but I found the same issue when trying to identify, then swap my non-syncro trans to a syncro unit. My trans pops out of gear once In a while and it would be easier and cheaper to get a used one than to rebuild this one (and still end up with a non-syncro transmission). My application might be slightly larger than yours however. What I did was start searching the web for my particular transmission - I tried to identify the case, and then the numbers. I did all that a while ago, but I did come across a wonderful site that had all sorts of information on the various transmissions and even likely vehicles to find them in. Ahh, that was a while ago as I say.. best I can tell you now, is do the same thing - start scouring the internet looking at photo's and typing in your tansmission numbers. Here is one for Borg Warners http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/t18-t19 Here's another with good verbage, but no photo;s http://www.rsgear.com/technical/diagrams/transmission-articles/domestic-truck-transmission-identification-guide.aspx#New_Process_435

I'm not certain the quality control in 1950 times were near what would be considered 'good' now. a '6' (with some bad sand in the casting) could have originally started off as an '8'.

This is where we have to use places like this board to figure things out. If something else fits - tell the rest of us. I have a beater 95 Toyota with terribly rusted rocker panels. The folks at Toyota decided to make these rocker panels part of the support of the unibody for the vehicle. Heard through the grapevine that S10 rocker panels work just great for replacements. Toyota wants over $110 for each panel - compared to about $15 for the Chevy ones. I haven't tested it yet, but later this summer I plan to make the $15 sacrifice to see.

Ever find out what the white knob is for..? My guess is either - the lock for the dump, or the PTO "switch". There would be a cable that goes from the knob all the way down to the PTO on the transmission. If a lock for the dump, you could again have a cable that would go to some type of lock mechanism to hold the dump body down against the frame.

>>> How does that compare to the USA ? Well, it depends on many things here. What 'flavor' of beer you like, a 6 pack, vs 12 pack vs a "case" (usually a 24 pack). Personally, I was 'raised' on Lite (from Miller - often confused with skunk urine).. not the best, even by US standards. Now, I do Sam Adams for the most part - a little more expensive, but better tasting to me at least. For the 'northern' beers, My taste buds are not a fan of Heiniken (sp?) - so if that's a 'better' beer, I guess you can keep it. Never been down under, so only can guage by the imports. Probably not a good measuring standard. This brings up location - I lived in NH for the most of my life - but because of jobs, I've recently had the experience of NJ and now in CT. NH and NJ were close for prices of beer. CT is expensive by compare. Sam is $3 or so more for a 12 pack here in CT. Maybe I'm shopping in the wrong store, but that's what I'm seeing. Glad that I still have family in NH, because I watch the sales there when I plan to visit and take a cooler when I go. I get Sam on sale in NH for a 12 pack for around $11 - $12. No coupons or store card needed. Recently I stocked up at $10.99/12 pack - I got 4. I'm good for about 90 days on that supply. For the % alcohol difference between US and our northern brothers - if I am having something with that much alcohol - it better NOT be beer. A good wine or something harder will fit that requirement. To keep somewhat on track.. Doesn't the military make (or used to make) a 6 cylinder engine that literally would run on anything (combustable - not water)..? Perhaps it was also sourced from Dodge..? I think it was in the larger (like deuce and a half + ) trucks.

Aww, C'mon, you only have about 20 'sticks' in there. Might have been able to carry more. You are brave out on the ice with your truck.. How much maple syrup do you make (approximately) per season..? My mom just stopped making it 2012 season. From the tubes and 55 gallon container, I'm going to guess you make more than the 12 or so gallons my mom made.

I moved my '50 B2F twice so far. First time was with a 1990 GM 3/4 ton pickup. truck pulled it just fine on a 12K flatbed trailer. Stopping was the issue. The trailer was doing 90% of the braking. I learned a lot on that trip of towing. Never over load your vehicle when towing. Make sure you have good brakes on your towing vehicle. I'm thinking if you have a 318 or a 360 in your '78 pickup, you'll be fine to tow your B1F. I'd believe 'DodgeB4ya' for the weights. They might be old listings, but they will be in the ball park (rust may have made your truck 50 pounds lighter now - or dirt and grime might have added 100 pounds. :-) ) Tow dolly = NO !!! Rent a good trailer if you can. Borrow a friends trailer if you can. I have an 18 foot flat bed. I should have gotten a 20 footer, but that's in the past. My 152 inch wheel base just fit on that 18 footer. Drive the B1F on the trailer - don't back it on. You won't have much chance of moving the tow weight around. Use a tow leveling system. There are a few different ones on the market, but worth every nickel of the cost. After the first tow of my B2F without leveling, I didn't want to tow again. The first time I hit the brakes with the truck on the trailer, I swear the nose of my chevy was 12 inches off the ground. Second tow was with a 2000 Ram 4x4 with a 360 - but I had the leveling system by then. The 8 or 9 mpg wasn't pretty, but it was a world of difference with the right equipment. Enjoy and be safe.