47heaven

Sorry...I forgot to add the paint chip link, but it's up on my last post now. You think it's the same green on the chart that's on the car?

What year Chrysler is this and what is the name of the green paint that's on it? I like the color. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v70/nnbaker/Daves%20Cars/?action=view&current=000_0512.jpg Also, is this the interior of that same car? http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v70/nnbaker/Daves%20Cars/?action=view&current=000_0513.jpg UPDATE: I looked at this site for old color chips and came up with this as the color shown in and on the car mentioned above. It's called Seacrest Green, according to this chart. I looked on the old Dupont color charts and it's not listed there. Nonetheless, I think that this is the green I have been looking for to paint my P15. Since I'm going with Maaco, and they only use Dupont, how can I use the non-Dupont paint code, shown for this company, so that the paint shop can mix it exactly as shown on this chip? http://tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/cgi-bin/search/searchpic.pl?1947-chrysler-pg01.jpg

Have been thinking about having an overdrive tranny put in my P15 with a P26 inline 6 engine. What year Plymouth, Dodge or Chrysler trannies will work with this engine? This will help me know which one to find while looking.

I went to a lead sled car show today, even though my car is stock, and ran into a guy that has a 1949 Plymouth business coupe that he customized. Turns out that he's a mechanic and knows a lot about early Plymouths. He checked my car out and told me that the reason that I may be having the overflow is because my fuel filter is up too high and needs to be lower than the carburator. Second, it turns out that I have an exhaust leak, and not the vacumn leak that I first thought. Now we have to troubleshoot from where the exhaust leak is coming from...which could be numerous things.

Hey guys...thanks for your advice and troubleshooting. I'm going to print all of it out and try to figure out what is happening this weekend, as well as keep it for reference. There is a 1/2 inch spacer between the manifold and carb. It's really hard to see where the gas is coming out because the carb is very clean on the outside, as well as the inside. It only does this when the engine is hot and has been turned off. Sometimes I've noticed that when it's flooding that the fuel filter is full of gas and other times it's not. Wondering if it could be a back up or something. There is no heat shield between the manifold and the fuel pump and the line passes about passes a few inches in front of the manifold on it's way from the pump and filter. It is a steel line. As far as where there could be a vacumn leak....the old connection to the wipers is plugged with a rubber cap. The vacumn to the distributor is tight at the carb, but will have to check it at the distributor. This same line looks a little bent up, so it may be possible that it has a crack? Maybe it should be replaced. Well see.

After having the gas tank recoated, a new fuel line and fuel pump installed and the carburator serviced, it still seems to flood with gasoline and run down the sides after I turn the engine off. What could be causing this? I thought I fixed that problem with a new line, fuel pump and fuel filter, and it still does it most every time I turn the engine off. It doesn't do it when the car is running. Could a faulty/broken heat riser be the cause of a vacumn leak? I drove the car to the mechanic after trying to tinker around with what could be causing the leak and causing the engine to miss at times. He said that the heat riser could be the cause and turned it somewhat. That seemed to help a little, but I still get an occasional miss at idle...sounds like a quick whoooosh sound that makes the engine seem like it's missing. Has anyone had something similar like this happen to them? Could this be tied in with the carburator problem as well?

That would be great and thanks for the offer, but once again I have no way to make the drive shaft from the parts. I have no garage and this place is good and local, even though they aren't cheap. They do a lot of off road, hot rod and custom vehicles. I know it's expensive, but it's already half paid for.

Thanks, guys! This helps a lot, but I had to move the drive shaft to the top of the list today because it's really viborating something awful. I'm having a more, modern drive shaft put in with better U-joints because I heard that many drive line guys don't like to mess with the pins and stuff in the old one...in other words, they are a pain in the butt. It's going to cost me about $550, but I will have a better ride. I guess I will go ahead and do electrical after that because I do need directional signals and a horn.

Ok....I'm at a stand still on what to do next with the car. The list below is what I have to do. I have an idea on what order to do things, but maybe you guys can give me an idea in what order you would do it. (these are not in order) * Paint and body * Interior * wiring * Floor rust repair * replace drive shaft (it works, but is off balance) * split manifold

Does anybody know what the correct beauty rings for a P15 would be (15") and where I could get them?

Where can I get some that will fit the front and back seats? Can't find them on J.C. Whitney, Auto Zone or Pep Boys. I've heard that some have found them on J.C Whitney, but all I can see are the covers for bucket seats. If anyone knows where I can get them, please paste the link. Thanks!

1-20-09 seems too long off. Bush needs to go now! There's my opinion and 2 cents.

Two things I'm curious about: 1) Do you have a diagram showing how you did that? Wouldn't the drive shaft get in the way? 2) I'm assuming you have a 1949 Plymouth. Is the gas tank in the same place as on the P15's?

There is an Earl Scheib paint center in Chino, California that has been there for years. I'm sure there prices are up with the competition's now, but I would doubt the quality is any better. One Day Paint was my choice, because they are real close, not terribly too expensive and the paint jobs on other cars don't look too bad, plus there is a five year guarantee on the paint job. They use Dupont Paints, which I heard were good quality. I decided to not use Balfour Green because the color doesn't really jive with me. So instead I'm going to go with Sea Mist Green, which is a 1950 Dodge color. I think it will still look period correct.

That's a good idea on the gear oil, Norm. I never thought about that. I do have what seams to be a seal leak from the trans. It's slow, but it's still leaking. Right now, the car is back in the shop because the carb started messing up and flooding. The problem is the old gas line and all the crud that's in it. I thought the new gas would clean it out and the filter would catch it, which it did, but some minute stuff gets through which clogs the needle which causes the flooding. Anyway, I took it to my carb guy and he said blowing out the carb was no broblem, but be fore he did it I had to do something about the fuel line, first. Also, he mentioned that the fuel pump probably has a lot of stuff in it, as well, and it also had to be blown out. So, he recommended me to a mechanic friend of his who took a shot at blowing out the crud, but when he did it, the tube formed a small hole when a rusted piece came lose. He said he couldn't believe how much crud came out of there (old dried gas, dirt and rubber). I asked him if this stuff was coming out of the gas tank also and he said the gas out of the tank looked clean. So to make a long story short, he had to order some kind of flex tube and will be installing it on either Monday or Tuesday. Then, I'll drive it back over to the carb guy and have him clean out the carb. The car should run real smooth after that. When I get the car back, I'm going to try shifting to 2nd before putting it in 1st or reverse. The car doesn't like when I downshift to 2nd for slowing to either stop or make a turn. It grinds a little on that. Not sure if these cars were meant to down shift. In the owner's manuel it mentions that when you are coming to a stop, you are to put the car into neutral and then brake. That could wear the brakes down pretty quick.

LOL...you'd wonder if they said and did all that on purpose. Then again, look how many people bought '56 Chevys, then.

Bob...what's a ball park figure of what he charges to rebuild the engine and how long does it take him? (just thought I'd ask and prepare myself before calling)

Where's the link to George Asche? Does one exist?

As I mentioned before....someone had won a couple film reels like that of the P15 on Ebay a while back. Sure would be good to see those up and running on YouTube someday or better yet...being able to get a copy of them! Nonetheless, the the 1937 Plymouth commercial is cool and I can see some similarities that carried over all the way to the P15.

I recall back on the old board there was some discussion about tail light reflectors for the 1946-48 P15s. I can't remember if it was discussed if there was a place that sold them or someone who made them. Nonetheless, does anyone know where I can get or buy replacements for my car, since mine are faded and I accidentally cracked one of the used ones I took off and old assembly.

Hell, I can't figure it out. It looks as if some round piece of thin metal, the same diameter of the refelector, was pushed in behind it. Has anyone else ever taken these reflectors out before? Is there an exploded picture of the tail light around? Maybe that might explain things better. I mean, I'm sure these things were ment to be replaced, weren't they?

Thanks, guys. The pics and info help a lot. Since my engine isn't as sparkling as yours are, I'm going to have to reaslly search for those plugs.

Thanks, Dave. These looked capped off from the back, so I can't see any prongs or bolts. Maybe the cap comes off?

I just received my two tail light assemblies that I won on Ebay a week or so ago. I saw they had good reflectors in them and the lenses were good, so I bid on them. My question now is how do the reflectors come out so I can put them in my existing tail light assemblies? I don't want to crack them or anything.

So the openings should still be there. I wonder why they took the oil filter off or was it an optional item?