Tired iron

Up until about ten years ago, I owned a small tugboat, a WWII sea mule, that had a pair of Chrysler Royals in it. Are those marine motors very similar to the industrial category?

What Farmerjon said! These pieces, balls springs, needle rollers, often called smalls, are not typically ebay items. More often they come in a rebuild kit from a transmission company. I have good luck with Border Parts, 619-461-0075, in California as they sell tranny internal parts for lots of models of older American transmissions. Google will be your friend here to source this stuff. Ebay is good for shafts and gears.As Farmerjon said, you might be lucky and be able to get by with just messing with the springs, cleaning and perhaps shimming...and you can do thus without dropping the tranny.

Often, it's not the snchros themselves. It is the spring and ball and detent that locate the shift rod and keep it there! It isn't that bad rebuilding these transmissions. I found most the parts I need on Ebay and I've collected a few other sources that I'm happy to pass on.

A 50 coronet has a more modern key ign and start switch.

Not saying what you should do, but just helping you consider options... My master and lines were shot, so I had to do something. With a very long and steep mtn road driveway, I was nervous about a single circuit master to begin with, so I bought a 50 dollar common 2 circuit master (firewall mounted) and new NICOP brake tubing. 150 bucks and safe...and easy to top off. Lots of other options, tho.

My 1960 Ford F600 had a hydro booster very similar to this and it sat behind the cab on the frame rail (standard master on the firewall). I'm not familiar with the antique add-on in question here, but I do know you can't cheat the laws of physics. If there's no extra energy added (vacuum or electric) its then further travel or harder push on the pedal. you can't get something for nothing!

I did my entire brake system in nicop and agree with everyone else...a learning experience, definitely, but enjoyable, satisfying and pretty cheap to do.

Thanks sniper and DJK for digging up info. And here's my two cents about electric pumps. First off, I love 'em! And here's why: When one of my vehicles has been sitting for a long time, I don't have to waste precious battery capacity cranking the motor to get fuel up to and in the carb. I also put a electric switch in the supply line to the pump so that, in Autumn when I'm putting cars to sleep, I can turn off the switch and keep running the motor until it dies. This does a good job of draining the carb, reducing varnish build-up. Yes, I could use a gas additive (and I often do), but with lots of cars and equipment, and full gas tanks in each, that's lots of Stabil! And, in regards to leaving the mechanical pump in the line, I've done that numerous times, but one thing to consider is this: if you do that and the rubber diaphram of the mechanical pump fails, you'll get raw gas going into your crankcase and diluting your oil... and not know it!

Do you happen to know the psi output of this pump? Lots of pumps that say they are low pressure also post numbers of 5-9 psi which, in my experience, can sometimes overpower the float and needle valve.

I have a 1950 meadowbrook with fluid drive and, If memory serves, when i rebuilt a non-fluid drive tranny for it, I had to swap input shafts cause one was longer than the other due to the fluid drive unit. Other than that, the conventional tranny was the same and it bolted up just fine to the fluid drive bell housing.

I'll steering clear of the 6 vs. 12 debate -- to each his/her own opinion -- but if you are going to convert, I found it to be much less complicated than some folks make it. I put in a one-wire 12 v alternator, swapped all bulbs to 12, new 12 V coil, and swapped polarity on the coil and ampmeter cause I wanted neg ground. I don't know if I would have converted if my car had been in good running shape, but my car was a junkyard find and the gen was shot and most of the bulbs were toast! Now my horn is loud but works fine, my starter loves the extra juice, fuel gauge is fine, and I've got all kinds of choices for a good sound system. No converters needed. I haven't swapped the blower motor yet, but will per sniper's and others recommendations.

As sniper said, there's lots on your shopping list that's not really necessary and/or excessively expensive. As an example, you can get a 12 v electric fuel pump for 10-20 bucks that will work just fine...just make sure you get a low pressure one. Steering clear of the 6 to 12 volt conversion debate (which is a hot one on this forum!), if you go 12, you absolutely want to make it neg ground--and there's no reason not to. The only things that have polarity issues are the amp meter, the ign. coil and perhaps the fuel pump and with each of those you just swap the connections to change polarity. Overdrive would have its own issues that I won't speak to here. Smarter minds than mine will chime in here on something I didn't get correct, but my point is that it is a very simple thing to do.

I recently rebuilt the 3 speed transmission in my International Scout and used the same trick with a extra lay shaft with a slight taper ground at the ends to help get it started when pushing the dummy shaft out. That plus assembly grease plus a string cradle to lift the cluster gear slightly as needed did the trick.

Looks like there's quite a bit of new and modified wiring, which is okay, but makes it harder for me to tell you exactly what to do and where things are. Get yourself a trouble light or voltmeter, clip one side to ground and starting probing for supply voltage ("hot"). Start at the end and work backwards until you find something wrong. So working backwards: (with ignition key on) check for hot at the terminal on the distributor ( you may need to take the distributor cap off and pry open the points to double check). If not hot there, then follow that wire back to the next item, which will be the spak coil. Check there on both terminals. If nothing there, then trace back to the next thing, which in the original meadowbrook set up is the horn relay. The horn relay doesn't do anything for the ignition; it's just an handy spot for the ignition circuit to attach too. Find hot there. If not, then the final point is the ign key switch. Hard to get under there--helpful if you practice yoga regularly. An additional approach will be to simply bypass a lot of those components (just to help diagose...not as a solution). Run a wire from the hot side of your battery to ignition key switch side, supply side, of your coil. Crank the motor over and, if it starts, you know that the problem is before the coil. Now get to it! I'm off to church and will check back here later today. In the meantime, folks much wiser than I will hopefully have additional tips for you.

The horn relay is on the firewall right above where the steering column comes thru. About a 1" x 2" metal rectangle with lots of wires on it. True to the label, it's the relay for the horn, but it's also the connection pass thru for the coil for ignition. The thing on the carburetor is a kick down switch the engages the over drive on the transmission whenever you stomp on the gas pedal. And the circuit breaker monitors when too much current is flowing thru thise wires and temporarily switches off (until it cools back down). It's about the size of a little book of stick matches and is up on the backside of the dash above the ignition key switch.