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DadRchmnd

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About DadRchmnd

  • Birthday 10/31/1979

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cedar Falls, IA
  • Interests
    Sports of all kinds, IOT hobbying, fishing and family time.
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge Coronet Coupe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Father of 2 great boys, husband to an awesome wife.
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    Cedar Falls, IA
  • Interests
    Football, fishing, art

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  1. Yes, sorry, the floor pans are what needs replaced. Thank you for the details! Extremely helpful.
  2. Had to shelve the project for the summer as we moved, but, new house is getting a detached shop just for me! Anyway, doing some planning and looking for advice. The front, rear, and trunk need replaced. Should this be done before or after pulling the body from the frame? I'm going to pull the body to descale the frame and paint it before putting it all back together. Just wondering if there is a best practice for this. Thanks all.
  3. At 6volt, 5 amps doesn't seem like it'd be enough, and you're bench test of working direct to a battery but not through the reducer also leads me to think that is the issue. I don't know what the proper amperage should be though, does the fan have a watt rating on it at all? That is the easiest way to figure out the amps needed. Right now you have 30watts, not accounting for resistance of the electrical lines to the fan, or any other junctions that would reduce the raw wattage.
  4. Love seeing your progress. I'm going to start tackling my floors this summer so am learning from your posts. Looks great!
  5. Thank you for this! A lot of the connections are rusted, I'm going to end up replacing all the electrical lines anyway. Because of it I'm thinking I'm going to do the 12v conversion. My buddy found a 318 engine that is missing the intake but turns freely on one of his pick and pull treks for nearly free, so I might be going that route anyway. So many choices to make gets overwhelming at times.
  6. We call that problem resolution engineering at work. What doesn't work? Ok, lets fix that, everything else is good.
  7. Found an oddity yesterday. When I had the 12volt battery hooked up for my ill advised test, the radio worked. I now have a correct 6 volt battery hooked up and the radio doesn't work. It is still a 6 volt system, but the radio doesn't seem to work right on it. None of the gauges appear to be working in with either voltage, but that isn't a big surprise. A little background, I'm a software engineer for John Deere, working on all the in cab software for all vehicles. So, the electrical system is really the least of my worries in terms of not being able to figure it out, and I have a friend who is an electronics guru and specializes in older electronics so I'm going to pull the radio and take it to him to test the components and will probably determine the cause then, but found it really odd that the supposed 6 Volt radio worked better with 12 volts. Anyone ever come across something like this? Also, the engine turns over, and it sounds like its trying to fire but not really sparking. Going to pull the distributor and order a rebuild kit for it to try that and see if it fires that way.
  8. Another win today! Mystery oil worked, turned over by hand then with plugs out to build up pressure. Put new plugs in and tried on 6volt battery, came close to firing but didn't have enough gas in it to fire. Hoping to get it going on Sunday when I can hook up an external fuel source.
  9. Yeah, that is what I'm doing next. I can still turn it by had but its definitely harder, so thinking its drying out, or dried out. Pulling plugs tomorrow when my son gets home so he can help.
  10. Hooked it up to a 12 volt battery I had just to test if it would turn. It spun the fan about 1 revolution the sounded like a car in the winter with its battery dying. Didn't turn anymore, and I didn't put any gas or starter fluid in the carb. But glad to know it'll turn.
  11. Thanks for the tip on the exhaust headers. Whichever way I go it will definitely be as "rumbly" as possible. I'd love to get a rotisserie, but that money will go toward the car. I think I'm going to try what @MarkDesoto did and make a body cart. Which is why I was thinking floors first so it stays square. I think I saw someone comment about that in his post. I'm also fighting space constraints with only a stall and a half available.
  12. I've definitely decided to keep the color and two tone paint. After cleaning the outside and getting the seats pulled out, I lifted it up some and found a couple broken body mounts which is going to lead me to pulling the body off to fix, run new brake and fuel lines etc. Need to get the floors cut out and replaced first though, so that is top of the priority list. Am going to try to turn the motor over this weekend and see how that is, am struggling on the fence between keeping the 230 with gyromatic, or pulling it in favor of a 318/340/360 with a 727 transmission. My 14 year old wants the bigger engine, my inner 16 year old agrees with him. But, my 41 year old side says keep it stock, but add dual intake and dual exhaust, do some old school engineering on it and just enjoy cruising. I made my first "punch list" about a month ago and very quickly got overwhelmed with all that I need/want to do. Need to brake the elephant down into smaller bites.
  13. Things are going slow. I was able to power wash it and pull the seats but thats it so far. I need to build some storage to hold parts after I remove them, then I can start dismantling it. I'll post a couple pics of it cleaned up.
  14. Does anyone know if the rear quarters from a sedan will fit on the special club coupe? I have the shop manual but it doesn't seem to specifically say. Thanks in advance.
  15. Those look great! I'm going to use the old as a template since I have to tear it off anyway, rodents and mildew having got the best of it. Even if its a temp fix to get me going. I really like the look and texture you've got!
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