billrigsby

Finally got around to measuring the bore of the T306, 218; 1=3.256 2=3.254 3=3.248 4=3.2515 5=3.2505 6=3.254 Need to at least remove the head from the D34,230 to measure them, may break down the whole engine, Will give me more room in the shop.

Sorry for all the questions, but when I started my project in the mid to late 80s nothing like this existed, so I am at the mercy of those with much more knowledge than me. As I'm restarting my project I'm going through engines, transmissions and this kind of stuff and I'm wondering about the fluid drive? I have a 3 speed that was stock that I went through and seems to be in really good shape, but I also have the secondary 3-speed that is a fluid drive with the longer output shaft and all the necessities to put it together. Just wondering on the pros and cons of using a fluid drive transmission, I'm still going through the 400 + pages of postings on this forum the one thing that did catch my eye was you can't put your truck in gear then have it hold you have to have a fully functional emergency brake, not a deal-breaker I'm just wondering other people's thoughts who are more knowledgeable than I. Thank you all for your input and I hope one day I'll be able to actually contribute as opposed to just ask questions. Thanks, Bill EDIT.... when I started my project in the mid to late 80s nothing like this existed, and now that I have revived it in the last month ....

Actually so do I, was that not standard on all pilothouse cabs?

Based on this information, this cab is what I thought it was. 4712 Cab 1948-49 B-1 B, C, D, F, H, R, T, V Well I guess mine is a bit rare also, got one arm rest, a pair of sun visors, heater, electric wipers and wing (smoker) windows. ?

I don't even know if eBay was around in 1987 when I first register my vehicle. But you are required to have both a front and rear plate in California and Colorado or they will not allow you to use them. And I don't even know for sure if Colorado has YOM program. Also Colorado truck plates actually say TRK on them, those look to be passenger car plates.

WooHoo, one less thing to look for Glad I got one for me! ?

Thanks, The arm rest was in the vehicle, 48 1 ton, passenger side was missing. Do not remember if there were holes in the passenger side trim. Of course I did not take a photo with the passenger door open ? Have to check my slides to see if the 'through' the vehicle shot shows any. Any chance only the drivers side got one stock?

Thank you all for the responses, seems the general consensus is that they had bad welders back in the day. From the two photos posted by Dodgeb4ya it looks like I have both stock and repair welds? But who knows for sure, I'll run with it. The interior is already painted.

Do these welds look stock, can not find any other evidence that the 'top' has been replaced. These look like my welds ? front of cab?

I am going to combine a bunch of questions after going through crates of parts. Is this a stock arm rest, and are repros available and where? Only have one, but can cover the passenger mounts with the trim. Do these go into the front of the cab 'legs', looks like I made them back in my 20s, Fab skills have improved ? Any idea of the 'year' of this Tach, sending unit available? How does this 'chassis' number relate, in general?

NICE - once it's done I got Plates and Regi ? The State of Colorado may not like it... (10 days to transfer when moving) but can not find 1948 CO Plates. Oh Well ?

All of this brings up a question, my 48 1 Ton is currently registered Non-Op in CA with the 1947 plates and the 1948 upper tab, even though I am a CO resident. I will not go through all the madness to do the COA (Change Of Address), but it was finally done. Being July, just received the renewal, all they ask for is 'proof of insurance'. Is a 1948 Exempt' from a smog certificate? Or is that due to the Registration having a CO address? Been gone too long, Not Really, but I forgot all the ins and outs of Smog Tests. Bill

Very lucky to have a 'one plate' year finding pairs of the old ones can be difficult, expensive or both. I know from experience, a three year search and $175.00 later I had my 1948 plates

Here are my (obviously) un-restored 1948 Plates, I hope they come out half as good as yours Fantastic Job!

Yep, They did.....

Nothing, but I want the 'instant gratification' of what, where, why, how...... click, Oh, now I remember. Plus do not have a screen any more, my 32" monitor is better than the pull out 4" screen.

Have over 250 slides from the late 80s documenting the start of my 1 Ton project, most of the transfer quotes I got have been ridiculous and the time frame is even worse. Time to take matters into my own hands................. Yes not color corrected, but, digital ! ?

Doing some more research, I am finding that my thoughts are correct, I do not have the stock engine for my truck (T146) I wish I could remember the reasoning for this? It must have had some 'terminal' issue when I broke it down. So, what I do have are; T306 23" 218ci Dodge Truck B-3-B, B-4-B 1951-1953 (disassembled) T118 25" 228ci or 236ci Dodge Truck WF, WFA, WFX, WFXA, 20-22, 30-34, 36 1941-1947 (disassembled) D34 23" 230ci Dodge Car Dodge 6 Custom 1950 (assembled with transmission) (stuck) So, more questions. The truck should have a 230ci, but I am not sure about using the Car engine in a truck, Can I assume that a 218ci, can be made into a 230ci by using the 230 crankshaft/rod combination? What issues might I run into going with the T118, being two inches longer than the T306? Plus it has a stuck water tube I need to work on. Is the only way to determine between 228ci or 236ci, the bore and stroke? Engine is disassembled so the stroke will be difficult. So "what would you do"? Thanks, Bill

Colonial Radio Corporation Models 671, 671A Chrysler MoPar 601, 602 Radio Information View File Yet another 601/602 Radio Manual (7 pages) Submitter billrigsby Submitted 07/28/2020 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates

I found an address / fax, No email, only mail or fax requests. I'll shoot one off, can't hurt. On other sites, people have had mixed results. Seems there was a fire and a lot of newer (post 60s) info destroyed. ? Historical Services 12501 Chrysler Freeway CIMS: 410-11-21 Detroit, MI 48288 USA Fax: 313-252-2928

Looking through some of my old slides yesterday from when I started my project confirmed what I thought I remembered. Out of the three engines I have, neither of them are what was in the vehicle when I got it. Assuming what was in the vehicle when I got it came from the factory, that is something I have not found a way to confirm. Is there a source for VIN to engine and transmission numbers? My question is; on muscle cars and other later cars you hear about matching numbers, is that such a thing on a 1948 Dodge pickup? I know obviously if I put the 250 in there it's a dead giveaway that it's not correct being close to 2 in longer than the 230 but I'm not sure about the serial number issue. Also what about putting a Fluid Drive Transmission and a PTO in a vehicle that did not come with it from the factory, is there a way to determine that it should not be there?

Installation Instructions MoPar Evr-Dry Weatherproofing Service Package View File Installation Instructions MoPar Evr-Dry Weatherproofing Service Package Part Number 1321118 Submitter billrigsby Submitted 07/26/2020 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates