Jeff I indu

Thanks for the responses. A fuel pump rebuild kit is ordered. I pulled the supply line off the fuel pump to blow air back into the gas tank. There is no inline fuel filter that I could find. I don't know if the gas tank had a internal screen or not. I wanted to eliminate that possibility. The sediment bowl is the only form of filtration that I can find on my car. At this point I am sure my issue is the fuel pump Jeff

A few days ago took my 49 chrysler royal out for a spin. After a few miles it sputtered and died like either out of gas or bad gas. Haven't driven it much lately so i suspected bad gas. Pulled the gas guage and siphoned the old gas out. The inside of the tank looked good but still won't start. Added fresh gas but can't get it to pull to the carburator. Starts easily with starter fluid. Pulled the supply line off the fuel pump and had my wife crank it over while feeling for vacuum from the fuel pump. I didn't feel any pull. Before I order a fuel pump rebuilt kit I was wondering if maybe the pump needed to be primed to pull gas from the tank. I did pull the bowl and cleaned it so it was empty while I checked for vacuum. Just not sure so thought I would ask Jeff

Not by me. You think it could be that simple? I've read about lubing the cable but not about lubing the speedometer itself. I will pull the cluster tomorrow. If it something I can do myself I will do it

My speedometer has been ticking for some time. Almost sounds like a lifter except the noise stops completely at a stop and speeds up as I speed up. Its bouncy but fairly accurate. Anyhow, today at about 40 miles an hour it it started making a huge racket and the speedometer needle pegged at the 100+ mile side of the gauge. After a stop it started off with just the tapping until I hit 40 mph again and it started again with the racket and the speedometer needle pegged. So I believe I have a internal speedometer issue. I've pulled the instrument cluster a few times before. My question is this something that is repairable? I don't see where parts are available. Is there a place that I can send the cluster to that specialises in speedometer repair for something this old? I see used units on Ebay but they look like junk. All my other guages and lights in the cluster work perfect so repairing mine would be my first choice Jeff

Since it is agreed that there is no source for a new floormat and it is finally warming up here in southern indiana I've decided to repair what I have. I've used my wife's hair dryer, a wallpaper seam roller and almost a whole roll of gorilla tape so far. It helps that it was in two pieces. Many of the splits closed up tight. Since it is molded I now have it in the car and trying to mate up the pieces the best i can. But I have a question. The 4th picture is from under the dash. Does the mat lay on top of the rubber strip or should I slide the mat underneath? Once in position i don't plan on removing it for a very long time. I have a tube of loctite polymeric roof and flashing patch to fill/glue some of the cracks once properly positioned on the floor. Says easy cleanup with paint thinner and paintable. We will see. Jeff

A few weeks ago I posted about needing some help identifying items left in the truck by the previous owner. I forgot one item. The original rubber floormat for the front of the car. Today, for the first time I unrolled it and laid it out. Its rough and in several pieces but it is 99% all there. My understanding is that item is impossible to buy so I am thinking about trying to save it. Not sure if it will work as it may fall further apart. It's cold out but I think if it was warmed up the rubber would become pliable. It's a molded piece to go over the hump so it cant be pieced back together flat. Anyhow, thinking about first getting a roll of thin inner tube type of rubber and a quart of rubber cement. Take each piece individually and cement a new piece of rubber to the back and roll it with something like a wallpaper seam roller to bond and strengthen the original. Use the hump in the car as needed and trim as needed Then lay a second layer of rubber on the floor and lay my puzzle pieces together as best as I can, then again rubber cement it all together and trim it to make it a one piece mat again. Fill cracks with black silicone or whatever. Has anyone tried this before or used a different method? Seems doable and not too expensive to try. I'm trying to stay as original as possible. Jeff

Plymouthy, You are correct. I saw the pivot pin was not removable and assumed it was made that way. However it is actually spring loaded and prys out of its pivot slot. I think it was just in upside down. It makes sense now. Thanks for the input Jeff

Thanks for the good info. The drainage holes in the wheel well puzzled me. After reviewing the two Jack's again I am not sure either is correct for this car. They are assembled correctly and both work. However the larger one has tabs that are bent over. I remember bumpers that had slots and you would insert the tabs on the jack into the slots to prevent movement. The other one just looks weird. Why the lip is upside down just doesnt look right. The bolt hole in the hook is at the top and it would not work if reversedAlso neither one lines up with the hooks/hardware to the right of the wheel well. I assumed that they had something to do with holding the jack down. I may be missing some pieces needed, I don't know. But again, I don't like to use bumper jacks. I've had a car drop while trying to change a tire. For this old car with very nice bumpers it will be AAA and a floor jack if ever needed

This was all left in the trunk by the previous deceased owner. The two upper right things are cut out of foam rubber. Not sure if they belong to the car or not. Two bumper Jack's. Not that I would ever use one but I assume one belongs to the original car and one doesn't. A old leather bag with a white cloth Interior? The Jack handle and a wheel chock. Original to the car?? Also there are 3 holes in the bottom of the wheel well. Is this correct or should I get some rubber grommets to seal them? Also to the right side of the wheel well are two hooks. Maybe I am missing the hardware to attach/mount the bumper jack to these hooks? Cant imagine it would just lay flat and rattle around in the trunk. One of these days I will get a spare tire for the rim but it would only be for looks. If I ever get a flat it would be AAA to the rescue. Thanks for any input Jeff

I know where Sardinia is. I grew up in cincinnati, then spent 29 years in Harrison before relocating to Versailles in southwest indiana. I have a 49 chrysler royal and fortunately have not had any engine issues. Don's crankshaft was always my machine shop of choice but they are long gone. I have also used Smyth automotive for head work, flywheel work etc. They used to have flat rate pricing but to be honest it's been about 10 years since I used them. Just a option to talk to that's not too far away from your location Jeff

Tanner, I did the same thing with a vise and used a socket to beat on. I finally gave up out of fear of damaging or breaking the pin/master cylinder. The shop used a hydraulic press to press the pin out. I took quite a bit of pressure to get it to move. The other issue is reinstalling it into the new master cylinder. It took quite a bit of pressure to press it back in place. Only took them 10 minutes and they didn't charge me because for them it was a small job. But for me it was a huge relief. Maybe sometimes they can be knocked out with a vise, punch and big hammer but in my case and probably yours it's well worth taking it to a shop where they have a press that can do the job safely and easily. It worked for me. Jeff

When I replaced the master cylinder in my 49 chrysler I had the same issue. I had to take the old master cylinder to a shop and they pressed the pin out and then reinstalled it in the new master cylinder. I remember thinking why in the heck couldn't the new master cylinder come with the mounting pin already in place? It's probably a 2 dollar piece of steel. It's frustrating when a simple job morphs into a trip to a machine shop

This steering wheel project had a happy ending. A forum member sold me a wheel at a fair price that was in very solid condition. A coat of adhesive promoter then a coat of self etching primer followed by 3 or 4 light coats of rustoleum high performance enamel and done. Actually the can of enamel spit a few times so it took a bit of sanding between coats. But one of the few times I successfully painted something without runs. Lots of interior work left to do and this wheel will just be the beginning. Just need some warmer weather. Jeff

After a break in several years ago I bought two wireless security cameras that plug into a outlet, one in a shed aimed at my back door and one in the house aimed in a hallway. The main unit is hidden in the garage inside a box. They are motion detection and record everything on a sd card. I have to delete or review the card once a month. Anymore i usually only review if there is a reason. No issues then I just delete everything. A while back I caught some kids sneaking on my property fishing at my pond. They walked past my back door and I caught them on camera. I've caught jehovah's witnesses and honestly I few other people knocking at my back door that I dont know but no other major issues But if you have been robbed before security cameras will give the police the proof they need. They will also give you some piece of mind. The whole setup was maybe 250 dollars at Sam's club 5 or 6 years ago. Even if the thief sees the camera and steals it also, he will be recorded. The trick is to hide the main unit in a garage, shelf, box etc. So that only you can find it Good luck and sorry to hear about your experience. P.S If I had to buy a system again I would look for one that would overwrite the sd card once it is full. As time goes on and no issues I am bad at erasing the card. My concern is that if I did have a issue my sd card might be full.

Over the past year I've had a few issues with Bernbaums. I ordered a brake overhaul kit and they sent me the wrong brake return springs. After struggling to make them work over a weekend I finally gave up and called them on monday and told them they were a half inch too short. A week later I got the correct ones for no charge. Recently replaced the front motor mount while doing the timing chain and the new mount had holes that were a quarter inch less wide than my old mount. I could have drilled them but chose to call and complain. They knew what my issue was immediately as others had the same issue. They sent me a new mount but again a week delay. My frustration was that they knew they had a repetitive issue and it was not fixed. I hate gearing up for a job, picking the best day of the week lining up your tools, getting dirty and then finding out you dont have the right parts. It's not just them. I just did a oil change on my wife's 2015 buick encore. Went to autozone for oil and filter. Even looked at the filter and told the girl if looked a little different than what I remembered. But her computer said it was correct. So in the middle of a oil change I find out it wont fit and have to fish my old one out of the trash and reuse it. Returned the wrong filter and got credit for it. I asked about getting another jug of mobil one because their error caused me to do a half ass oil change but they couldn't do that. The part number the computer spot out was correct. The girl pulled one off the shelf that was one digit off. And so it goes... Jeff

You can also buy the DTE Hydraulic Oil ISO VG 32 at your local W.W. Grainger store. It should either be a stock item or one day to get it in store. Best price and no shipping assuming you have a grainger store near you

I bought a champion 3 row off of ebay about a year ago for my 49 chrysler royal. I had to redrill a couple of holes to make it fit but it was easy to measure since my old radiator was out at the same time. I looked at having my original radiator repaired but the radiator shop consensus was that they could fix my leaks but it would just pop more leaks due to age. So for 200 bucks the champion radiator was a easy choice. I think it looks good and if you dont like the chrome look you can paint it black. I look forward to years of no radiator leaks.

Dodgeb4ya Thanks for the education. I definitely want to keep my 49 hub and front cover so you have answered my question. I was optimistic that it would work. I have a much greater understanding of the differences and now know exactly what I need. Most of the steering wheels on Ebay are advertised as buyer beware, no returns, best of our knowledge, unsure of year, etc so I now more than some of the sellers Bob, just saw your post and I will be contacting steve tomorrow The interior in my car is 100% original and my goal is to upgrade back to original one section at a time. The steering wheel seemed like a good place to start. I have all winter to either replace or repair my wheel. Worse case I put it back on as is and just keep driving it. I will figure it out Again, thanks for the advise Jeff

Wow great advise and exactly what I needed. Dodgeb4ya, great pictures. The bottom of the wheel is the main issue I have now. Mine is smooth as shown in your first picture of the 2 blue wheels. The bottom of the NOS wheel on Ebay looks exactly like the second blue wheel in your first picture with high and low spots. But will the chrome hub # 1141455 piece ride at the same depth on both wheels? If so and it looks like a 3/4 shaft size,I may be able to make it work If not then it's back to Ebay with a lot more knowledge of what i need than i had before

I did get a quote from dennis at quality restorations for $1885 for a solid color or $2100 for a marble pattern. Really not looking to go that high though the steering wheels he does look perfect. Looking at options at this point

As you can see my steering wheel is not in very good shape. I was looking at the eastwood steering wheel repair videos but still have concerns due to the many, many cracks on mine. Was wondering if anyone has used this kit and were satisfied with the results? My other option is there is a NOS steering wheel on Ebay for a few hundred bucks but it is blue. Either way I will need to eventually have one wheel or the other painted. I asked a few months ago if there was a way to cross reference steering wheels by part number and did not get a response but will try again. A few weeks ago a bought what I thought was a match off Ebay only to find the horn button had to be twisted a quarter turn to remove. Mine is screwed on with 3 screws from the back. So it wont work. I have now removed and dismantled my wheel so i wont make the same mistake again. Anyhow the part number on my wheel is BH 1139492. The Ebay item number I am looking at is 254774312418. The part number is BH 1122314 or maybe BH 1122814 and is advertised to fit a 46 thru 48. Visually I think I have a match. The only difference i can detect is that the Ebay wheel has 3 fatter areas where the the 3 screws that hold the horn button attach. Marked it with the tip of the pen in the photo. Its empty space under my horn button so I dont think it will effect me. Worse case I can dremel it away. Just wondering what others have done in this same situation. I've looked at Gary's wheel repair and there is a guy in San Diego who does beautiful work but I dont feel like spending $2000 for a wheel repair Jeff

This is what I use in my 49 chrysler fluid drive transmission. Someone on this site recommended it. My local Grainger store carries it for around 30 or 35 dollars. My transmission shifts fine Jeff

Got it back yesterday. They did it for 100 dollars plus 15 for return shipping. They did repair the two pits in the bottom lip as they are completely gone. If I look real close I can see dozens of very tiny pits especially within the horizontal grooves. Totally unnoticeable before I sent it in.I guess that's what you get with potmetal. However once on the car they won't be noticeable. Overall for 100 bucks plus shipping I am happy with the result. NOS does not exist and if it did I am sure it would be a lot more than I have in it now. St louis plating did what they said and I guess I got what I paid for Jeff

It does not look right. Heck of a wobble. I just did a timing chain cover seal on my 49 chrysler royal 251 engine a month ago. There are 3 main pieces. The hub, the vibration damper and the pulley. The hub can't wobble without super major engine issues. The vibration damper presses or pounds onto the hub in my case. Unless it is falling apart I dont think you would see that much wobble. The big nut was 1 and13/ 16 I believe but if loose and for some reason backing off the crankshaft, the pulley should still run true as there was no taper on the crankshaft end. Dont think that's your issue. The pulley was held onto the damper by 6 1/2 inch bolts. Tight fit and the 6 bolt pattern was slightly off center so that you could only position it one way and get all the bolts to attach. Pulleys dont just warp or bend that bad. I think you have loose bolts that hold the pulley to the vibration damper. I'm not a expert in these engines but this is my guess based on what I did a month ago

One of my projects this winter will be to upgrade the steering wheel on my 49 chrysler royal. I believe mine has too many cracks to repair and have been looking at ebay for a replacement with less damage. I expect to have to repair minor damage and repaint the wheel. There was one that just sold that makes me wish I would have asked a few questions sooner. The part number on my wheel is BH 1139492. I dont think I need a exact match as some of the digits probably reference a color code that I dont care about. Does anyone know what years would interchange with my 49 royal and do I need a exact match with the part number? If not what digits in the part number must I have to ensure a proper fit. Again, color does not matter as I expect to need to do some repair and painting Thanks Jeff