Cpt.Fred

aah, ok! what should it read then, when everythings fine?

on the intake? carb? sorry, i've never done that before, you must think i'm really stupid but can you explain how you mean it? thanks...

just for kicks:cool:

alright, i won't trust anyone here anymore;) wartburg it is. but since it's raining cats and dogs here all the time i don't feel like trying right now... all fuel lines are new, hoses as well and they're labeled as fuel hoses, you have to try hard to find anything that isn't tested and labeled and proofed and what not at least six times over here in germany:rolleyes: i'll check the gap and look at the timing with a strobelight as soon as the rain stops.

ha! i know what you mean:D i broke my speedo while disassembling and had to send it to an expert, but mine was broken anyway and maybe i wasn't careful enough. good luck with yours! sadly i cannot help you because it's a different model like the one on my 40. but they're all pretty eggshell, i guess...

greg: you're right, i've got that coil bolted to the firewall. if you say i can try another with a little tricking i'll do so the next days, someone here must have an old 6V coil lying around in the rubble... 50: oh no, sounds awful! i've had that kind of trouble before on my 60s opel, hated it. turned out to be an airleak somewhere, but don't ask how we got there:eek: i have a new carb on the shelf, but i rebuilt the one on the engine completely last year, so... i don't know. hopefully on sunday i'll know a little more. if most of you think it's a fuel issue, i'll change filters first! thanks so far, i'll keep you updated!

i couldn't drive with this creepy puppet sitting behind me staring at my neck *brrr*

the condenser inside the distributer is new as well, but who knows? the points don't show any sign of spark damage, though, so i guess the condenser is fine. i guess i'll just take out the filters and put new ones in, there's a dragrace on sunday about 25miles from here, i guess i'll just have a friend follow me and i go for some overland testing... i forgot checking the intake for secondary air yesterday, but why should it idle so calmly then? i really hate this kind of malfunction, could well be everything.

those other guys at the hamb might just be jealous... ever thought of fender skirts? they'd look great. i think.

ok, here's another annoying little incident on my way to a daily driver: when i headed home the day before yesterday after a nice little cruise and measuring the temp in the radiator, the '40 started having ugly little cutouts, which seriously "rocked the boat" if you know what i mean. in second or third gear, during acceleration, really hard dropouts like someone would turn the motor off and on again in a fastpaced rythm. i pressed the clutch and thought the engine would be dead, but it just ran on quite normal:confused: at low rpms nothing happens, then i went on without problems. a few minutes later the same, this time up a hill. when idling, the engine started making little puffs and spits and frizzles once in a while, it didn' do that before... i am running an electric fuel pump, filters look fine. distributor and points look fine , as well. all wires and the plugs are new. can it be the coil, collapsing under load or when it's getting warm?

very cool! congratulations! the car was nice before, but now it's got something of a shark or something, don't know how to put it, but i like it! did you take work-in-progress-pics?

had the same thing on my old 60s opel rekord, so i know how to handle that, but is it right that the cooling system on our old mopars is pressure free? in my opel cih motor (and nearly all other motors i know, except the 32 fords of some friends here) the system builds up pressure to delay the coolants boiling point... 170F in an opel engine would be to low actually. i'm confused, but only a little:) tomorrow i ask stupid questions about my next problem on the car. sleep well, all of you! i'm shutting down here... best, fred

this is the one, same as sedan and coupe i think:

pics are always nice:) i'm running a single 2" pipe on a factory manifold and a single "bullet" muffler, but since i am going to lower the car 3" in the back i don't want to lay the exaust across the rear axle anymore. the plan would be to to buy the fenton style headers (since i like the sound so much) and let the pipes exit in front of the rear wheels under the running boards on both sides. keep us updated on your assembly progress, this will be a great car!

alright, did some testing yesterday. a friend had one of these wire thingies and we measured the water temperature after an hour of stop and go city traffic. the temp gauge is surprisingly accurate, 170F on the gauge and the thermometer reads 168F. the temp goes up to 180F-185F and stays there, which should be fine i guess? maybe i was just a little overcautious, because everythings new to me with the car...

sounds like a good idea, edwin! next time i'll be around i'll email you, so you you can get my plates ready. afterwards we can have a little cruise, maybe to a soccermatch, germany vs netherlands? cheers!

do you have a photo from the bottom side, showing how your pipes are arranged under the car? where did you buy those headers, at langdon's?

a friend just mailed me he had a thermometer for me to borrow. i'm going to fetch it after work and i'm planning to do a night driving test and adjust lamps and everything (already switched back to sealed beams;)), that's a good occasion to test the temp as well...

*brrrrr* fuzzy....

nice video! great patina on your car:cool: i want those headers, too:D

you cannot run any plates that old over here, i guess. unless maybe you would have bought the car back then and never moved or bought a new one. but, back in the late 40s to early 50s germany still was devided into 3 occupied zones (for an obvious reason...) and all three of them had their own sector specific plates. some people stick those to their cars on shows, but it's illegal to use them on the road. sometimes you can see elder people on car shows still having their original plates from the 60s or 70s, you can recognise them by the letters and printstyle. today, everyone has to have uge reflecting plates with a yellow european star circle on blue and the "D" for deutschland. you also have stickers indicating how long you're allowed to drive until the next official check up, every 2 years, and which region the vehicle is listed in. the letters start with the city you live in. on our cars you would try to get a certificate of originality (more or less:rolleyes:) to get an "H" on the plate. this is for "historic vehicle" and gives you certain benefits such as a reduced vehicle tax and you're allowed to enter the inner city environmental zones without the green sticker showing your emission level. pretty complicated here, eh? on the last weekend's car show, i had the car sitting without front plate and with an old guatemala centro america plate in the back... people where very confused, hehehe.

i guess for germany this would be a NO, written in red, 4 metres high, guarded by an army of german DMV clerks:rolleyes:

great! did you take pictures already? it's great to ride the first miles and learn to drive the new car with all its special behaviours;)

the hoses are used ones, but seem to be in fine condition, so i didn't change them. i haven't lost any coolant so far, or at least very very little. it's nearly like the noise a large truck makes when it blows off the pneumatic pressure from the air brakes, only very faint. i guess i'll just run the car a few more miles and then i'll tell you what i found:rolleyes: my girlfriend likes the hissing, she says it makes the car even more boatlike then it is already first thing tomorrow is borrowing a thermometer from my friend's garage...

jim: you're right, that's where it is. i have a small service opening in my floor panel, through which i can adjust the pedal's free play. that's where i think the trouble is going on. bob: yes, they're all new. i guess i must have done something wrong myself. the brakes do not really "lock up" all of a sudden, it's more like the pressure is sneaking up on me. i tried to get like 1 or 1 1/2 inches of freeplay, that's very nice to operate and the brakes are really great then. several miles later i realised the free play is nearly gone and before i could find a nice place to pull over i already smelled the brake linings. now it feels more like kicking a sofa cushion and the pressure point is about 2-3 inches above the floor board. it works great, the car got a 310 on both front wheels and 260 on the rear on the brake test bench (is that measured in lbs?) but you have to kick real hard in the end. if i set it up like this, the pressure point stays where it is...