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Posts
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My Project Cars
1951 Cambridge
Converted
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Location
NH
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Interests
Old Cars, Motorcycles, NASCAR
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Or you can use a brake bleeding tool to put the gear oil in.
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I'm not sure the OP understands this: Stated value does not mean the stated value of your policy. Ultimately it means the stated value of the official value sources that the insurance industry uses. The Agreed Value policy used by Hagerty as an example is the superior policy for the collector car owner. The reason is that whatever the amount that you and the insurance company agreed to insure the car for is exactly what the insurance company will pay you If your car is totalled. You know what you will get it you car is totalled. The stated value policy.....does not provide that. Regardless what your policy says, the insurance company is only obligated to pay off, in the event of a total loss, the stated value of a source !like NADA or Kelly Blue Book or whatever source said insurance company uses. now Hagerty uses Agreed Value policy, as does Parrish/Heacock does. Several others also do. JC Taylor does not, they use Stated Value Policy. I'm not sure about Grundy but I think they use Stated Value Policy. Other companies in the industry use the Stated Value Policy too. Edited-----Grundy does now use Agreed Valued Policy.----Edited SO, remember, Stated Value means you do not have an exact figure you will receive in the event of a total loss. And Agreed Value means you do have an exact number you will receive it you car is totalled. It is the opposite of what the names might lead you to believe initially. Always ask your Collector Car insurer if their policy is Agreed Value of Stated Value.
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Valuable experience. You won't soon forget this.
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What allbizz49 said is the answer and throw in a bit of patience. Chris, I love the idea of you practising on this one to hone your skills. Excellent idea! Let's us know how it goes as you continue.
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Another back out the driveway and turn left to go down road this morning.....happy to report no problem.
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Ok.....I have somewhat of a conclusion to the story. Replaced the 2 wheel cylinders in that right front. It has been started and backed out and turned hard left to go down the street 3 times so far. No issues. Seems like the problem may be gone. I cannot swear it will never show up again.....but it's gone for now. So it does appear that perhaps one of those non-leaking wheel cylinders was manufactured slightly off and with the steering movements the piston may have been hanging up a bit initially. And one more thing, one of the shoe bolts does seem to go into a plate attached to the steering linkage ( correct me if I'm wrong) so everything can be stressed by extreme steering input, perhaps just a enough to complicate things.
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Anyone expressed interest in your cars when you pass?
Robert5 replied to knuckleharley's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Enjoy every single day for tomorrow is promised to no one! And if that means enjoying the old car hobby.......then dammit enjoy it! And don't worry so much about what happens when you are gone. At that point you're just dust in the wind. -
OK.....next to check on my list.....thanks.
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Bill--- all looks good on that.
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Thanks Bill. I will check it.
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Brake lines fairly new.......3 years perhaps. My b-i-l who was a mechanic by trade.....retired now, feels that most times if the brake hose collapses inside it doesn't usually uncollapse. I dunno. We'll see if replacing the wheel cylinders in the R F wheel changes anything.
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They have been already given that hard look. Even tested while on a lift. They are fine. But thanks for your thought.
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Ok..sunny day today. Drove car straight out driveway and made right onto the street. This was possible because car was backed in. And no resistance was noticed. Not sure what that indicates.....but I like it. So, it is backed in again. Wheel cylinders for right front are ordered and will go on anyway.