Kilgore47

Good advise on the lighting. I plan on going with LED. The foundation for the shop and carport is in. They are coming back today to pour the driveway extension. The sidewalk looking thing around the foundation is the new drainage path for the back yard.

The new shop will have a tall celling for a lift. Going with a two post. A four post would take up too much room. Having a deep concrete beam poured where the lift will be anchored. I have been told that six inches of concrete is enough for a two post lift so I'm going with a one foot thick beam. Didn't get much sleep last night - kind of excited about getting this done. Concrete today. I lucked out and it has been perfect weather here in East Texas for concrete work. More news latter.

I bought Alshere59's 1950 Plymouth. He gave me a super deal. Won't be able to start working on it for about two months. The shop I'm renting has asked me to move out by the end of the year. So I decided to build a shop and it will be about two months before it's done. Probably shouldn't be spending this much money but I'm old and I need a place to work on stuff and not worry about the owner changing their mind. The new shop is not going to be big or fancy. But it will be big enough to work on one car at a time and have a lift. I shouldn't be starting another project but I'm too stubborn to stop working on stuff yet. This is a perfect project for me. The mechanicals are good. All I have to do is paint it and then put it back together. I think I can do all that. It may need a few adjustments here and there also. This is a picture of the dirt work and the day the car got here. Had the car transported from Ohio to Texas. That's a story for another time. More news latter.

There have been a couple of times while working on a car and getting frustrated that I could have used that tool. 😂

Heads up. I have one of those ferrules that I don't need. I replaced the tank on the P15 and didn't use it. If anyone wants it - I will send it to you.

I have a question about the rear axel seals. Yes I had to replace the rear brakes twice because I didn't clear the vent the first time. My question is - Can the inner seal be left out and let the oil in the rear end lubricate the bearings. When I got the P15 I pulled the rear axels to replace the seals. When I pulled the axels the bearings were dry, rusted and they fell apart. This is an often neglected lubrication point.

I'll do the dum dum thing on the hood one day. But for now I don't have a wet plug problem. Don't drive the 47 P15 in the rain. Haven't fixed the wind shield wiper motor yet. Still on the list to be done.

I'll probably get a hard time for this. But for an old engine it looks fine. No matter how much you polish the stains the pitting will still be there. In fact the more you polish it the larger the pits will get. Put it back together and drive it.

Got the engine on the stand. Going to have to adjust a couple of spots. But I design as I build so there will be changes. This engine will eventually go in a 1964 Impalla. Going to mount the radiator on the side of the frame. It has electric fans. I'll build a high point fill so I can get the air out of the system. I was concerened that with the radiator that low that the pump may not work as designed. So I talked to one of my engineering friends and they think it will be OK. There will be a full set of gauges when I get it running. If it doesn't cool with this set up then I'll change it.

I was looking around for steel to use for this project and remembered this old work table. Turned it up side down and it made a good starting point. Put me way ahead of where I thought I would be after the first day. Looks like a real mess. But that's part of building stuff. More news latter,

My neighbor got this Chevy 6 a few years back. As you can see in the picture it has had a rattle can rebuild. My neighbor did the paint job. I have looked in the cylinders and I'm pretty sure it's a smoker. I am going to attempt to build an engine run stand for this thing. I have a nice SS flat bed cart from one of the local storage units. They tossed it and I grabbed it. Just going to start cutting and welding and see what takes shape. I think the engine is from 1959. More news latter

I rebuilt the ball and trunnions on the 47 P15 a few years back. The kits were very expensive then. And I had the same problems. Some of the parts didn't fit. The price has gone up since then. At this price point the cost of two B&T rebuild kits is almost the same as a new drive shaft. Add fifty bucks to it and go to your local four wheel drive shop and have then build you a new drive shaft with modern U joints. If I ever have to fool with mine again - I'll have a new drive shaft built.

Now I want one of those.

Thanks for this post. One of our car group members has several 63 and 64 chevy Impala's. And he replaced the front end on one of them. Like most old car people he doesn't throw stuff away. I asked him about it and he gave the sway bar to me. I just have to track down a mounting kit for it. The 47 P15 has a front sway bar but it's tiny. This one from a 64 Impala should make a big difference.

The center of the storm came through here. Thirty MPH winds at times but no damage. We did get 6.5" of rain that day. Time to get the mower out.

Check the vent on the housing. If it's plugged the grease will be forced past the seals as the rear end housing heats up and pressure builds. When I got the P15 I replaced all the seals, bearings, shoes and cylinders on the rear. About a year latter grease was everywhere. Seals must have gone bad - nope - the vent was plugged. The second time around I made sure the vent was clear. Another year latter and all is good.

Good choice Cooper40.

When I first got the 47 P15 - I was trying to take the front right wheel off to inspect the brakes. Those bolts just wouldn't come out. If I had looked closer I would have seen the "L" on the end of the bolts. Yep - the left hand threads are on the right side of the car and the right hand threads are on the left side of the car. Someone switched them in the past.

I have never left a carb on the engine with the top off with gas in it. Wonder if this would happen on other similar carbs left in the same situation.

I used a pre bent set to replace the brake lines on the P15. Wasn't sure I had the skill to make the double flares. They were bent to fit the shipping box and had tabs to show where they needed to be un bent. They fit good. If I ever have to do that again I will make my own. Next I'll replace the fuel line. I got roll tubing for that project.

I had a plastic filter melt and deform when mounted in a similar location. I replaced it with a metal filter and moved it to a better location. You are probably correct about the fuel not igniting when it hits the manifold. But it will boil off quickly and then the area under the hood will be filled with gasoline vapor. That vapor will ignite. A small fault in the ignition system can cause that.

Very nice car and awesome engine. Maybe those engine bay pictures are from before the fire. But if you leave that plastic fuel filter that close to the exhaust manifold you are going to have another fire. The plastic will melt and spill gas all over. I suggest at least changing it to a metal filter. Dual glass bowls at the carbs would look good.

You can also down load a GPS speedo app on your smart phone. That's what I used on the P15 until I got the real speedo fixed. Then I used the phone app to check the accuracy of the real speedo. We used to use the mile markers on the highway to check the accuracy of the car speedometer and odometer. GPS is much faster now.

The pins in the clutch linkage will be worn also. Check all the linkage - there will be more than one spot that is worn. The first picture shows that it was close to failing. The peddle had stopped returning to the top and this is what I found. After repairing the worn spots everything works as it should.