Jeff Ivan

I had a similiar situation with my 2004 Dakota. I found out the original blower resistor and their exact replacement part is defective, prone to a short life. When you get your replacement part, make sure it is the 'second generation new and improved' resistor. I don't have a picture, and am not good enough with my typing skills to give a detailed description. But the improved replacement part looks different, It has the coils more exposed to help keep it cool, and is most likely able to handle a few more amps. It still cost approx. $15, unless you get a Dodge dealer part. Here is a link to what is IMO one of the best Dakota-Durango forums on the 'net. You don't have to register to search their data. You will be able to get some good info here http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/index.php There are some very enthusiastic Dakota-Durango owners and competant troubleshooting mechanics there, very knowledgable on these vehicles. Except for a steering column knuckle ($348 part and labor) replaced at the Dodge dealer for free under my warranty, the few issues I have had with my Dakota in the last 6 or 7 years I have been able to fix myself, with help from this website. My resistor always seemed to go bad while in "AC" mode, not "heater" mode. When I replaced it the last time with the newer style part, it has not been a problem anymore. Good Luck!

Bob, I am so glad to hear that you and family are OK. You are in my prayers, and so are all those who were not so fortunate. Material goods are not so important when you realize your loved ones are what truly matter to a man. You know you have here on this forum something almost like another extended family. Even though some of us here just lurk in the background and rarely post, we still have a common bond through our cars. We gather and hang out at this website from all over. When I heard about the tragedy in Joplin, you came to my mind immediately. I am not at all surprised that other folks here had the same first thought too. Not sure about your faith, but just a suggestion for a short read: PSALMS 46:1-4

Happy New year to everyone! It has been a while since I logged on here,10/14/07 last time, but I have been reading this forum once in a while when I rarely have a little spare moment. I've been very busy working more overtime and crazy weekend hours than is healthy for most guys. My wife broke her wrist at work about 7 1/2 weeks ago, and the bills still have to be paid. So I have been trying to pull in as much $$$ as possible. We waited over 6 weeks for her first workers comp check. Things are going real good now, and this is my second 4 day weekend in a row. I think New Years Eve is the appropriate day for me to relax,play on the computer, watch TV, and DRINK heavily- I deserve it- I am not much of a caretaker I found out I am getting short on my compassion for my injured wife! I did fire up the '51 Plymouth yesterday, and moved it to the winter storage parking spot and put the tarp over it, and took the battery out. I have not started it for 2 months. I trickle charged the 6 volt battery for 24 hours and gave it a shot of ether and it fired up so quick that I was amazed, the temperature at the time was about 33 degrees. Here is a picture I took today with the camera phone, I was curious to see how a pic from my phone will look from a link. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v93/Jeff51/1951%20Plymouth/Ply.jpg HAPPY NEW YEAR 2008 to everyone out there, may you and you families and loved ones and homes and MoPars be blessed with the best of everything in 2008!! =Jeff=

James, you could also drive it slowly thru a fresh water creek crossing:) . Here in PA we get lots of road salt on our vehicles. Our private road floods out occasionally from run-off and melting snow. I make sure I really splash thru and make a wake sometimes, sounds stupid but it DOES wash off the salt in all the hidden undercarriage spots. Muddy water silt is better than salt for sure. Of course you would have to drive slowly, our 4x4's are pretty waterproof.

Harold, on my 1951 Cranbrook I am running size 215/75/15 radials. I am still not sure of the rear end ratio on my car, but the speedometer seems to be right on. I checked the speedometer just today. The local Police Dept. has a trailer with a screen that lights up with your speed as you drive past, they had it parked on the main road near where I live and I drove past it three different times today. I think you will really like the difference in the ride if you go with radial tires, just barely notice it is only very slightly harder to steer when parallel parking. Also, the threaded valve stems are easily available at any local tire shop that sells larger truck or tractor/ equipment tires. My tires are cheapies bought new by the previous owner but never mounted, and given to me as part of the purchase deal. When I took the wheels to get them mounted, they got the new valve stems from the tool box on their mobile service truck. Make sure the bead edge on your wheels is NOT badly rusted/pitted /damaged or weakened and you should be OK.

Oil Leaks? Who me? I use the Sakrete concrete patch stuff, spread the dry powder on the oil spots. It soaks it up while disguising the spots. Most importantly it keeps my wife in mute mode on the subject.

I checked the 101-300 miles. Don't trust the old clutch to go much farther, any direction from here is hills. Have put on approx. 2400 miles in last 4 summers driving mostly local, have put on 225 miles or so in one day more than once without going more than a 75 mile radius from home. The more parts I replace, the more trustworthy she feels!

Nice truck, body looks in great condition. You would rarely if ever find one that nice and rust-free here in SW PA. We can't wait to see the new tattoo!

Irwin,PA. Same zip code as North Huntingdon,PA-- Since just this past August now known internationally as the home of the new McDonald's 'BIG MAC' Museum.

When I was working as a bodyman/mechanic parts replacer I always bought the higher end hand tools because of the beating they took, especially working on trucks and equipment. Snap-On, Mac, Matco,Cornwell, and even some good quality SK tools. I could not afford to buy 2 sets of everything, and it was a pain in the @$$ to carry everything home and back to work on my vehicles. So I started going to local yard and garage sales and flea markets and buying worn out and broken name brand tools, Craftsman tools are easy to find. I would pay maybe pennies on the dollar value, then take them in for exchange. I am sure I am not the only guy who has done this at least once or twice. Never got asked for a receipt, tho I had to alternate 2 or 3 different Sears stores because some of the employees were getting wise to my tactics. There are a lot of high end Snap-On, etc, tools at some of these yard and estate sales to be found because the old timers "borrowed" them from the steel mills or factories where they worked, then "forgot" to return them when they retired. The Snap-On guy that came to our shop would sometimes question where I got some tools, especially when he knew the tool was older than me. I would say it belonged to my dad,uncle,grandpap, neighbor,etc.He got mad if I sold them too!! One time I bought a Snap-On 1/2 inch drive extra long ratchet for $3, and exchanged it for a new one that sold for over $200, then sold it to a co-worker for $125, I was very desperate because my mortgage was overdue. Most all I have kept for myself. Hopefully when I go to the big garage in the sky my wife won't sell them so cheap!

Don & Lou- Thanks for the helpful info. Sounds logical, I have very little logic when it involve some of these electrical situations. Thanks again,Jeff

I have always set the points on my Plymouth using a feeler gauge. I have a 1970's era dwell meter that was my dad's, but I always just thought it was for 12 V neg. ground only because that is what we were using it for back then and I know the best way is with a dwell meter. So reading on this forum here recently I saw postings about dwell meters and a dim 6 volt bulb lit up in my head. So today I got mine out and printed on the side of the box where I never looked it says 6, 12, & 24 volt systems, positive and negative ground. And also Wankel engines - are those still around??!! My original Plymouth shop manual has the specs for the dwell angle, but does not say or show how to hook it up, any idiot in 1951 should have known that! The last time I used this meter was over 15 years ago on one of my 1970's Power Wagons with electronic ignition to set the idle speed. I remember for that the red wire on the meter hooked to the -neg terminal on the coil and the other black wire to ground. What about +pos ground? Here is my confusion now, is the red meter wire when hooked up to a +pos ground car hooked up to +pos on coil? Or do I just reverse the leads and hook up the black meter wire to the -neg terminal on coil? Or is it hooked up the same way? I know this is probably an obvious answer, but electrics ain't my specialty and I would really hate to fry this meter. The photo is a little blurry, but see the pic of the 1968 Chevelle on the box. Thanks, =Jeff=

This is the hub puller I have been using on my car. It belonged to my dad, so I know it is from the 1950's. It is a very well made tool, Dad was a Tool & Die Maker/ Machinist/Tig welder and he never believed in buying any cheap off-shore made tools if he could avoid them. It went thru Heck and back the first time I pulled my rear drums off. I remember that I really had to slam the center bolt with a small sledge hammer on the right side drum and it barely put a ding on the bolt head. It does look like Dad filed off the burrs and dings on the center bolt at one time, and he coated it in oil and wrapped it in plastic and kept it in the original box too.The arms are reversible, you bolt it on with the lug bolts. I also have a couple other much larger and smaller pullers, but they don't work on these drums. I would guess that something like this one would sell for about $75 in today's money.

Don, from what I understand from reading your post, your wife won those tickets and does not work for the Mayor. So any advice given here, and any advice you decide to take from us here should not affect your wife's job, hopefully. Free food and drinks? Anyone from the Pittsburgh area would get their money's worth, or in your winners situation, get sloshed and bloated to oblivion, and make sure your wife is driving home! Just be politely obnoxious enough towards the Mayor that he is not offended by you, he would just rather enjoy the game in the company of someone else. Get yourself off the hook early, and you can just be yourself and have fun. Been there,done that. Years ago an ex girlfriend's family had Steelers season tickets. Her dad was a business owner, the seats were in a conglomerate of media and political stuffed shirts section. I was definitely ALWAYS a minority in that seating section, dressed like a typical fan who should be in the "working man's" cheap seats, a resident of the adjoining rural county, so they could not hint about wanting my vote. Also, I am registered to a political party whose mascot is an elephant, theirs was represented by another name for a donkey or a burro, so we politey tolerated each other. But seriously, You don't have to talk a good game or act like a semi-pro sports analyst to have a good time being around people that might make you nervous because of their slightly celebrity status. If ya get to the point of being uneasy around the Mayor, here is what to do: Stand up suddenly and scream along with the rest of the home team fans; reach over and kiss your wife; excuse yourself for a rest room visit. Even people who are not big football fans can get influenced by the excitement generated by a cheering crowd. :) "You just go lay your hands on a Pittsburgh Steelers fan, and I think you're gonna find they understand!" =Charlie Daniels= In America = Oh yeah, we know that 'Ben' fella you referred to in your post.

I don't have a part # for you, but I bought one for my '51 Plymouth last year. It is the 'STANT' brand, right off the STANT display rack at a local auto parts store, about $5, I didn't even have to ask for counterman help, the application book was hanging on the rack. The gasket was sold seperately, about $1 more. I had bought a NOS thermostat from ebay for a '51 Chrysler first, the heavy cast brass type, probably what you have. It was too big for the housing, probably for a straight 8 engine. I did not know that a modern replacement type was available, because an obviously highly experienced 18 year old girl at Advance Auto Parts told me there was no listing. So I drove a half mile to a local chain and found it easily.

Total bummer. I hope you are not hurting worse tomorrow or the next day, some of these injuries can creep up on ya in a couple of days. Can't tell from the pics if the frame is bent or not. If it is tweaked a little, you should be able to find an old timer bodyman/bodyshop to pull it to the the correct specs OK, tho he will probably want the replacement sheet metal when he pulls and aligns it. On a slightly positive note, it ain't been painted yet. That sheet metal on the 1951-52 Plymouths and Dodges ain't as heavy as some folks think it is, because of the cost cutting during the Korean War, they cut costs on the quality of the chrome bumpers those couple of years too. My '51 Cranbrook is not the tank ,sheet metal wise, that most people think it is. So hopefully it just looks worse than it is. What about insurance? Hopefully you get some kind of reimbursement from either yours or the other guys insurance co. It helps a lot if you have receipts to prove all the work done recently. Good Luck man, I hope it all works out for ya, without suffering a financial loss because of some yo-yo in a new Chevy.

I have been looking thru the original copy Plymouth service manual I have, and now am not sure what to think. Is the filter set up that I plan to install a bypass type? If not, do I need to go to a different pressure relief valve? It's not fun pushing the age of 50! I can't see the side of the engine thru my eyeglasses top or thru the bifocals, and can't see good enough without them either. Maybe I'll pull out the starter. And I burned my arm and hand on the metal cage on the drop lite. Time to buy another fluorescent drop lite to replace the one I crushed lowering the tractor's snowplow on it last year. I give up for now, I probably won't get this installed for a couple more weekends anyhow. I think I'll just go for a dusk time drive now, this car speaks to me, some of you guys know how that is, we'll figure it out together!

Normspeed, thank you so much for the excellent photo you posted. I hope you don't mind I saved it for future reference. It would be a lot better to mount the housing in the bracket opposite the engine block as you did. Don't know why mine is mounted with the upper fitting at the block side. Thanks again guys.

Hi Merle, that makes sense. I guess the inlet line probably would feed thru the bottom into the center tube. Once I take off the bracket and get it cleaned up maybe I will get lucky and they are marked 'in' and 'out'. I'm not even sure which is which on my current set up. I just swapped filters and put them on as they were. I will have to be positively sure of the 'in' and 'out' on the engine block. Oh yeah, that IS a PBR can covering the coil. It is the ONLY thing vaguely resembling "Billet" or "Bling" in my engine compartment, and probably the only aluminum too.

The fella I bought the filter housing from packed it with the old filter still in it, and shipped it Parcel Post. I was kind of happy he did because the old Purolator number was easy to cross reference to a current WIX number.The box was totally oil stained, he left the lines on it and did not plug them. The woman at the counter at the Post Office brought it out from the back room , this oily stained cardboard box, with a weird look on her face. She said she had no idea what it was, and she hoped it was not perishable. I told her I knew what it was (did not tell her tho), I just said that it was about 60 years old and probably not spoiled yet. Here is a photo of the old Purolator filter and the CarQuest/WIX replacement # 85100. Made in USA and looks like it has a lot more holes in it too. Cost with tax $11.40. Another small update to a long term driveable fixxer-upper car! =Jeff=

I bought on ebay ,for a very reasonable price, an oil filter housing from supposedly a 1946-48 Plymouth. I was tipped off to this item by a very kind,helpful, and alert member of this forum= Thanks again Bob T! This uses the replaceable filter cartridge that is readily available, the sealed canister on my 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook is no longer available new, and ebay prices are usually $50 and up. I will install it after I get it cleaned up and painted. My question, more like a verification, Does the top oil line on my present filter attach to the top fitting on the backside at the bracket of the other one? And I assume the bottom lines are both the return lines? I laid the housing that I just got on top of my current filter to try to show in the photo.

The Car Quest #SP5772 brake line is what I used for my oil line. Just replaced it less than 3 weeks ago. Works great for me because it is a little bit longer so it has less tendency to kink. My car is a 1951. Cost was about $16.

That is some outstanding inkwork by that tattoo artist. Unlike some of us;) who back in the 1970's woke up some mornings and found the permanent markings adorning our bodies, you obviously had a great game plan laid out before going to the tat parlor. I'm in the planning stages of some cover up enhancements, it is truly amazing the various colors and durability of the ink nowadaze, also the modern equipment and the dedication of the talented artists out there currently. So my question to you is---- What are you planning to get pierced?

OK, got a pic of the old tinted mirror. I tilted it up to catch the reflection of the sky. I just wanted to play with the camera to see if I could get a pic that would show the tint.

Norm, most definitely NOT a paint. This mirror has been thru enough weather the last couple years to be positive about that, and it is a little scratched too. I am sure it is tinted mirror glass. I will try to get a close up pic, but not so sure it will show up in a photo. It kinda reminds me of those old coffee tables with the tinted mirror tops, this is a rose or very pale orange color. Very cool in my opinion, and it does help with sun glare a little. Mostly notice it helps some at night when you got some crappy $1000 import with $950 welding arc headlites behind you.