55 Fargo

Just was out for about a 50 mile cruise with the old heap, mostly highway, even some multi lane type highway fora change. This truck runs well, handles okay and brakes okay, but she is one noisy sucker in the cab, I do have carpet on the floor and some insulation in the cab, but just plain noisy and not engine or fan noise, not sure what, just wind and sound from outside, I guess. Kept highway speeds at 55 mph, and some intervals at 60 mph, no issues, 2500 RPM @ 60mph. A couple of pics, from the Lockport Area in Manitoba.... Although the truck ran well, drove reasonable, this is not vacation touring vehicle, does not compare to the nice easy ride of the 47 Chrysler I used to own, may have to rethink my purpose for the truck, and make changes accordingly

Decided to get rid of the hydraulic brake light switch, and go with an old style GM lever mechanical switch. The latter are more positive, and turn on the brake light circuit with a slight touch of the brake pedal. The hydraulic switches, you often have to push the brake pedal in a lot before the circuit opens. This is such a simple easy retrofit, and works great.

Sorry to hear that Ed, was it on the grass? I know frames and sheet metal can stay outdoors a long time, if there elevated up off the ground , but if they lay in wet grass, or a lot of muddy ground, it don't take long to rot out.... My Fargo frame was lying on the ground for 5 years, I was lucky, not much rust...

It was a 1st start, and the video quality, may affect sound too. This engine can spool it up pretty good, this isn't your everyday mopar flathead 6.HP on this engine is apparently fairly high for the old flattie. This Old Guy was talik to me about Mopar flat 6s the other day at a car show, he shared a story of some local dirt track racer with a 265 powered flathead 6, apparently nobody could touch him....

Here you go "pupils" are not getttin the best of you "Freshman"......

Here is Tim Kingsburys 49 Plymouth Biz Coupe 265 powered with triple carbs, split exhaust and some engine goodies. it sounds great, hope to see a video of it smokin the tires soon..

BTW, what does "Flaming" know, He likes the look of multi colors and rust..........., but to him thats appealing and that's what counts.

Artists don't ask others how to "create" their work, do what you like, others may like it, some may not, if they don't it's their problem. Some like on this forum like "bone stock", some like some 'rodded" modified look, as in the wheels. I like the picture, you decide, it's your "ride".....

Do another compression test, if you have spark, and timing is half a$$ed close, and there is fuel, then it should fire. If the fire is good, timing is reasonably close, no stuck valves, then drop a few ounces of gas into the carb, and fire this old girl to life. I had a problem a few years ago, could not get spark though, it turn out to be the coil lead to dizzy was grounding out on the distributor housing, corrected that and she roared to life....Good Luck and keep us posted, but do follow a systematic process of elimination method, instead of trying this then that and ending up chasing your tail....

Trailer hitch mocked up, need to attach with grade 8, 1/2 inch fine thread nut/bolts, and need to tweak bumper and bracket for a better fit.The bumper was a bit twisted so needs a straightening anyway. It fits pretty good, and should be perfect for trailers up to 5000lbs ...

Charles that looks real nice, and very quality workmanship. My bumper, is different so do not think the receiver would mount through the bumper. Looks good...

Okay, made a proto-type receiver hitch for my Fargo, design is based on GTKs, I made the design, somebody else did the welding. The side bracket holes need to be drilled, the bumper bracket , will have to be tweaked to fit over the hitch bracket,then all bolts to the frame. I have some pics, keep in mind the hitch will be mounted higher, it is only sitting under the area in the pics. it is of the class 3 strength.

This old 57 GMC skool bus is a local hit at car shows, always gets a lot of attention, great machine... Was at the local car show today, beautiful weather, and about 500 cars to look at..

True, but it needs to drop, in order to plug in the insert. This hitch receiver tube doe not have to be hanging out far or even beyond the bumper. It will have to be dropped 2 inches to allow the ball insert to get in. I am contemplating on what may be the best and most practical way to lower the entire receiver assembly, and whether it should be attached to the frame from the bottom edge, or up the entire side of the frame. I will post pics later, to illustrate..

Got ahold of a used receiver hitch from a truck. It is the same width as the frame, but if you hold it up tight to the frame, it needs to be about 2 inchs lower, as well as about 2 inch back. This would allow the receiver to be right under the middle of the bumper. I have a few options, cut off portion of the side brackets, and have 1/4 inch plate steel welded on to make up the difference, the hitch could then be bolted to the side of the rear of the frame. Or another option, weld on some type of steel, to allow the receiver hitch to line up. I will post pics tommorrow, will get this right at some point

Thanx for the pic Dav. When you have a moment, can you post some measurement, especially the frame width....thanx

I have made a template tonight, but still not sure it is of the right size. I basically traced it from the pic that GTK posted, and scaled it larger from that point, it looks very close, but will continue to play with it. Once I have it right, will cut 1/2 inch plat to match, and have my welder, weld the square tube steel, and receiver tub on, and maybe it will workout.

Hi, does anyone happen to have 1 of these type receiver hitches, that GTK had built. I am looking for the side bracket measurements, or even a template. I do know my frame rails are 40 inchs wide. I need to make the side brackets, and have it all welded together, much sturdier and safer than a bumper hitch.

Okay, read all the trailer hitch threads, but am wondering about this. My factory rear bumper, which as the trailer ball, is this set-up tough enough for light Class 1/2 utility trailers. I am not planning on freeway hauling , just slower roads close to home,with light loads, a quad, maybe the garden tractor, with 1200-1500 lb gvw trailer weight. The bumper brackets are attached to the frame with grade 8 bolts, do plan to reinforce this are, and have the safety chains hooked to the frame, rather than the bumper. I am not planning to buy a class 3 receiver hitch, as i have no plans for any heavier than what I mentioned for hauling

Now out for some fun, truck trailer and Kids Quad, mine is a lot bigger and heavier to get on, but the trailer could handle it no problem.

Bought a trailer last week, I knew it needed a new wood floor, and proper sides. The trailer has 3 new tires, and a very beefy suspension, tilt etc 6 X8 ft. Well the the frame was crusty under the floor, your have to remove the angle iron retainer at the back of the trailer, did this, and had to clean entire frame, do some welding, and shoot on paint. I installed a new BC fir plywood floor, tongue and groove, and made side rails out of BC cedar, I had to weld the angle iron retainer back onto the trailer frame, still need to stain/oil the wood, the under side i used green wood preservative. The rims were pulled, bead blasted and repainted. lot of work, but a decent trailer as a result...

Nope, any of our "canuck" 25 inch engines will bolt up to a fluid coupler..............

That crude cut plate as you so "astutely" describe is a 1/2 inch thick, it is total overkill. The gussets are small, but the welding on this stand looks good, as long as it penetrated. You don't get metal this heavy and thick, when you buy new stands, especially the HF type. Thanx for the free critique Bill.

Your absolutely correct Don, just though a support on the pedestal on 45 degrees forwad, may help this sucker from tipping over forwards. The metal is super heavy, the welds look great, will find out, the price was right......

Bought this heavy homemade engine stand at the local "dump" today. $10, it is very havy steel built. Think this is heavy enough for a flathead 6? I may have to weld in a support, on the pedestal, but this sucker is heavy duty....