55 Fargo

While I wouldn't mind new springs, the USD and CDN exchange rates, ssssssshipping is big dollars on heavy items once it goes across the border. The joint you dealt with, I am way closer to Michigan than you, but the minute it goes to Canada, the shipping is 3 times more. When our dollar difference was more civil, I used to ship things to Pembina ND and pick it up from that point, which is an hour and a half away.....

Hi Tim, glad to hear George is home, but sorry to hear his recovery is not going as well as expected. Give him and his family my regards, for a speedy recovery. I am also sad to hear your Mother is not doing well these days, not easy for her and not easy for you. I hope all works out for her, and she is feeling better soon. I am glad the merchandise is moving along, and hope George is back in the workshop ASAP to get those orders fulfilled. I sure wish I were much closer, could and would help you package and ship orders. Hang in there Buddy, and lets hope all returns to normal real soon......

Well, it is still open to all transmissions, I do not want this thread to be a combative preference on trans types and manufacturers. If I was to say for example do the A833 conversion, would do a blog on the whole process.

3 local shops re-arc springs, they all can do alignment on I beam suspension too.

The front drivers side spring pack are worn out, and straight, but I have a 55 dodge 1 ton pickup parts frame. Does anyone know if I can use the 1 ton front springs minus a few leaves for a replacement? I do not have a parts book, but they measure the same width and thickness wise..

The guessing game is over. its definitely a 3.23, as verified by OEM tag. Perhaps the elchepo little tach is out a bit, no big deal. My tires are P 235 75 15s, but stand only about 27.7 tall, so can add some RPM there too. I have no trouble taking off in 2nd gear, which is 3.09, do not have to rev the crap put of the engine or nothing. I do not think an overdrive with say .73 would work well with this rearend though, something like .85 overdrive would be about right....

Another possibility/scenario, clutch slippage slightly at higher speeds, wind velocity and resistance? I have never notice my clutch slipping at any time though...

Its not an overdrive, but a Canadian T98 Acme heavy duty 4 spd, with 1:1 in 4th. I dunno Merle, done it many times, different ways, the way you describe too. I always get the same results, so maybe time to pull diff plate cover, and change up the lube too. I guess I could blame the tach, but the old tach when working good gave the same reading for 60-65-70, so i dunno. Now the RPM at those speeds are not bad, but they should read lower with a 3.23 rearend and 28 inch tires.... Thanx Guys

So today for the umpteenth time, I spun the rear passenger tire, and counted the driveshaft turns, and it indicates 3.23. Now my rpm at 60,65 and 70 MPH are higher than what any RPM calculator states it should be for a 3.23 with 28.2 inch tires. Scratchin my head on this one...

All the time, and its verified correct reads 50 mph for 60 mph. Those calculators are not an exact science, so add windage and load and more RPM for a certain speed I suppose...

Only 1 way to find out. I can tell you mine likes up to 3000 never been beyond, in my time on this engine. In fact, its hard to rev her up beyond this point, cam profile obviously not conducive for much more on my engine. Had the truck out early this morning, 2500 @60mph 2700 @65 mph, 3000 @71 mph, now my rearend is supposed to be a 3.23, but the RPM and tire size point to 3.55 on the RPM scale, i don't get it.....

Yes I too looked around for a fair priced tach in the 4-5k range, but decided to buy an elcheapo locally. With the USD/CDN dollar exchange, have not bought many goods from the US in a while. I can understand why nobody really wants an 8-10 k tach, I can live with a 7k tach....

good luck on a 3-4 k Tach, and 6 volt too boot. The diesel types are lower, but again not of any use. I today bought this elcheapo $25 7000 RPM tach, setting the redline at 1/2 @3500 RPM. Works great, it replaced my broken Sun Pro tach, which I need to send away for repairs, as it is vintage... Engine dual carbs and exhaust big block warmed up and idling at 500 rpm.

Okay so you T5 guys, what gear set model did you use, and with which diff gearing? Now someone I know who is interested is not sure what he has, it's in a stock 52 Fargo, so most likely 4.11, the other guy has a 54 Dodge truck with some type of later Mopar 8 1/4 diff, but he thinks its 3.55 gears, but needs to verify? I again mentioned they have other options, but both already have these transmissions and are keen on them. So after 70 views, any info out there or can you share your personal experience on your T5 conversion, gearing, usage, efficiency etc.......

Upon inspection on the front leaf springs, they appear to be pretty straight especially on the drivers side, must a been 1 big farmer owned this truck at some point. Now I have spring packs from a 1955 Dodge 1 ton, I am hoping to use some of these as they look in better shape, have to wait till spring for a closer look. How many and which springs should I remove to soften the ride and to lower it a bit? The front has 8 leaf springs, the rear has 7. My goal is to lower this truck slightly, and especially the rearend, I am not looking for a tail dragger or a real low truck, as I live on gravel, and do haul the odd thing too.

Okay Thanks

Okay so had some time to look at my front suspension and give it some grease too. I want to install new shackles, and bushing sets, front and rear, and also want to remove leaf spring(s). The tie rod ends are new, so is the drag link, king pins are newer, tight, but today could not get grease into the top zerks. The steering box has a small amount of play, and is still leaky, gonna get corn head grease and be done with it. Also took the time to search and read, but looking for further first hand details and experience on this. My goal isa tight, softer riding truck, but am not looking to lower it all that much. Gentleman start your engines.....

Hey All, Just thought I would create a thread dedicated to T5 conversions, pitfalls, methods and what is needed to make it work whether you have a car or truck. How many of the T5 conversions have been done by members say in the last year(s), and what are your results, what are the pros and what are the cons. There are 2 different gears ratios, one with lower gears, and one with higher gears. Now who is using which transmission, and with what differential gear ratios? So here is the opportunity to discuss this topic on T5 conversion for better or worse. As of late have been asked by a few folks who do not do "internet", about a T 5 conversion, what's involved, which NWC trans gear ratio is best, what differential gear ratio is best, and who is pleased with there results, not only in Overdrive, but in all 5 gears, for off the line performance, as well as the gear spreads etc. I have suggested there are other trans options, and a trans conversion is not limited to just a T 5 transmission. This thread is not intended as a "brand" debate, but for learning and informative communications to be kept to the topic where possible. As of late been offered 2 of the T5 transmissions for nothing, but not my choice, so have offered them to other flathead owners, who as I mentioned would like the low down on the transmissions, differences and best application......

Heres my plan, my king pins, tie rod ends, drag link are all new, so are the shocks. The steering box has a small amount of slop, but do not want to tighten it anymore. I have not touched he springs, bushing or shackles. I want to soften the ride and drop her maybe 2 inches, no where near as you did, do not want a drop axle at this point in time. I might add a steering stabilzer to the equation....

Hey all, today it was cool, dry and just had to go fora drive, this time to the city (Winnipeg), temp - 10c or about 18f, sunny and super dry. Truck performed very well, heat okay, except going home against a north wind, could feel the air leaks into the cab, but not bad at all. 55 mph for most of the trip on a small slower highway, on the big highway fora bit too going 60-65 mph. Truck rides like big empty truck, gotta do some spring work, maybe some anti-sway or pan hard bars too. I do not think this truck would be fun on a 1000 mile road trip. My other issue, 228 engine, could be a little tired, but with 3.23 gears, she is a bit doggy from 40-55 mph, just the nature of the beast. I go a little driveline vibration still, and I suspect the fabbed driveshaft where the the rear yoke was farm welded in the bush, might be an issue....LOL I will have to pull all springs and shackels apart, and lower trucka bit, going to lower gears, and an overdrive type trans is in the future, this old T98 Acme is an old bull and a bit noisy. Come along for a ride,

I hear yah Brother Norm Milliner was a good man, and always had time for me whether it was on here or email or telephone calls. He was from Milwaukee, but was raised In Louisville Kentucky. I spoke with his wife Mary after his death to express my condolences, and found some time to tel Mary, he will be missed on this forum. Norm was a good sport, as a few were always taking "pokes" at him, for his driveway P15 drives, and other things, Norm took it all in stride, and had a witty comment back to those who were taking potshots at him. Norm you are gone but not forgotten, as a few others like Grey Beard Dave Erb, RIP guys........

Some use "Dollar Tree" elccheapo oils, some use Valvoline, Rotella etc. Use whichever oil you like, as long as the viscosity is doing well for your engine, climate and driving habits. If the engine is dirty, pull the oil pan and side covers and clan it out. Add ZDDP, or use Lucas or another high quality additive if you believe everything you read and hear....LOL Clean oil, regular oil changes, and correct viscosity, will be light years ahead of the motor oils when your car was born.........

All of it's own and that's "Kool"......... My old 55 Fargo beast, "money magnet"...........LMAO

Again with all do respect, this is a dual carb intake with adapter plates to run 2 X 2bbl carbs. This in itself is a much more balanced induction over a single carb to feed 3 siamese ports, not the same at all. Besides this being a totally off topic "Stovebolt" GM 6 overhead valve engine, again a totally different movie. The engine has 3 siamesed intake ports as well as 4 exhaust ports, so on this engine you need all the exhaust you can blow out...