55 Fargo

UPDATE:, I have been able to get up into the locks/latch without removal. the mechanincs are working, the locks are now well lubricated, the key turns easily in both directions, the inside handle goes to and stays over in the lock position. But the doors don't stay locked, you can still open them whether you,lock the inside handle or use the key. Inside the latch assembly there is a little metal piece with a lip on it that slide up and down if you turn the key to the lock position, but it does not hold it in the lock position. Not sure if it is too far worn, or what, will most likely have to use the ones from parts car, but that car is in beat-up shape too, so don't know if the locks are any good either. Are locks that wear out common with these cars, as they are very old, no doubt been locked and unlocked thousands of times, will need to get these working before it ever goes for a paint job, would not like to have to mess with his with new paint on her.....................Fred

If that engine and block design was designed for an external by pass system, not sure how it will by-pass, with the internal t/stat housing and waterpump. The internal type by-pass water pump can be used on an engine with external by-pass design, but the external by-pass waterpump usually can not be used on an internal by-pass system. You say this engine is an original 47 engine, must be a P15 # on the block, could the head have been changed at some point. Does it work well like this, or have you had problems with circualtion till the engine warms enough to open the T/stat. In about the time this design was changed to an internal by-pass system,Chrysler also introduced pressurized cooling systems and rads, around 1951, these rads were fairly low-pressure with 4 lb rad caps........................Fred

Pulled the latch and lock asssembly from my parts car, it came out in about 2 minutes as the door handle and lock were already out. I can now see what makes this system lock, so mine is either seized or broken some how. I need to drill or extract out the lock cylinder screw on one side, and one stainless screw on the other side one of the 2 that holds on the door handle. I have tried drilling them out with regular drill bits, does not seem to drill much of it at all, it is either stainless or very hard steel. Any ideas how to get these out.........Fred

Have a great trip Norm and a Merry Christmas to you and yours...........Fred

I noticed the 47 Chrysler Newyorker Convert in your photobucket. A fellow Chrysler addict up here in Winnipeg , built a car like that some years back, he sold it to a guy in your area. If it's the same car, when my friend got the car, there was no floor insdie, he took the body and transplanted it onto a sedan floor, he reconstructed the whole car, took him 4 years, he eventually sold it to a guy in the Twin Cities area, wonder if its the same car, I know it was that color.You and your dad did a nice job on the car.

Is that the same car Ed,if so, how long did it take to complete, there is hope for mine yet.............Fred

You got me there Ed, what stage is this car at now.............Fred

The key cylinder travels freely and easily on both doors in it's full range of motion. The inside handleshould lock the doors, but they do not, using the key does not lock the door either. I am facing 2 problems , on the drivers door, one of the 2 screws that holds the handle to the door has it's screw stripped, so I cannot get this handle off yet, I need to be able to get the handle off, in oreder to remove the latch/lock mechanism. On the passenger door, the lock cyl, the screw that holds it in the door, has it's head stripped off. I cannot win with this car, this is what happens, when you have such a rough speciman to start off with, I believe my car was a lot rougher than a majority of the cars on this website, not whining, just stating a fact. When a car is this rough, you get these problems at every turn, nothing about fixing this car has been smooth or easy. Now getting the above mentioned screws out of the door locks, will be a major PITA, not even sure how to go about it, as these are areas where you just cannot hold the torch to it and wait till its redhot for removal. It may be possible, someone at one point broke these lock mechanisms, I will not know till they are out however. Thanx as usual guys.

Jim, they don't look too bad, but the wire is too light if you are still on a 6 volt system. I have done some re-wiring on my coupe, but it is 6 volt, I have used 12 and 14 gauge wire almost through out, and even some 10 gauge for certain items. You could always to a store like Princess Auto, buy all the wire you need in a multitude of colors, get a schematic for your car, then do a wire at a time, solder your terminals and joints, use heat shrink tubes on the joints, buy a universal fuse panel, and wire your circuits through that. I have run in-line fuses to the clock, heater motor, wiper motor, will also do it for the radio and lighter, my lights and some of the other circuits are on terminal breakers. But when I go and redo it all, I may use a fuse panel, and run most of the circuits through the panel. You could also buy a ready made harness for your car, but expect to pay about $700, for the complete harness. I think you should be able to make your own, just organize yourself, go on the search section of this forum and research how others have done this task, get a good schmemaitc to follow.................Fred

Thanx Ed, that part is fine, the shaft is in position okay. The key turns freely to lock but the door does not stay locked, so something must be wrong or worn in the lock/latch assembly.................Fred

Hi all, picked up my door locks, and trunk lock assembly, they are now keyed to the same key. As I did not have keys before, the locksmith started from scratch and made keys, and keyed the trunk lock to the door locks, which I will eventually get an Igntion switch and key it to these locks, everything will be on 1 key. Right now it's a 2 key set-up, as my ignition switch is from a later model. The guy at the shop charged me only $25 cash, for the job, he also had key blanks and he cut me 2, included in the price. Installed everything, the trunk lock works great, the door locks turn as they should, but do not keep the doors locked, they will still open. Has anyone had this experience, is there something wrong inside the doors in the lock mechanism, any idea how to fix this, I want to be able to lock the doors..................Thanx Fred

Thanx Tim and Phil, I think it should be okay, don't think I would let Wallyworld put her up on the hoist, without me standing there anyway.

Hi all, when I installed the first section of fuel line from the gas tank over the diff, then formed to get over to the side of the frame, I ran the line under the frame and up to the side of the frame and then it proceeds along to the front of the car. My question is this, should I have tried to cross over the frame to the one side of it, as I have crossed under the frame, is that a bad thing, I did not have a picture of the old gas line, not sure if it crosses over or under the frame. Will post some pics later, to give you an idea of what I mean............Fred

Hi all, I had brought my OEM type ignition switch to a local hillbilly locksmith,a couple of weeks ago but he couldn't get keys so I picked it up. I then took it with my trunk lock, and one door lock to Winnipeg, to an oldtime locksmith shop. When I go to the shop, the key cylinder was gone from the switch, I had dropped it somehwere. The locksmith said he could re-key the trunk lock, and the door lock, he said the door lock would be tougher because of how it is encased. I am having the doors, trunk and igniton switch keyed to one key. I know it's not OEM, but I like a 1 key system. But he has only trunk key blanks, but thats no big deal either, because the octagon headed keys have the same shaft as the trunk key, will have those made later. He also gave me:) a keyblank for my current ignition switch, which is a Y138, but he would not cut it as it is steel and he did not want to mess up his key cutting machine. Later the same day, clear across the city, I stop at another old time lock shop, the old timer has car pics and memorabilia alll over the walls, I knew this was the right kinda shop;) , he cut the key for me in about 5 seconds. He also rekeys old car locks, had a bunch of old key blanks, lots of old Stude Key blanks, thinking of going to get my locks from the other shop and bring them to this guy, he was a real character too. On the way home I stopped at the hillbilly lockshop, wouldn't you know it, the lock cylinder was lying on the snow:) in the parking lot, been drove over a few times too, but not damaged at all, was lucky to find it, and this was 5 hours later. I had a look at the switch , as the pin that holds it in the socket is broken off, I found a very tiny screw, screwed it into the pin spot and it's holding. The only thing is the screw head is protruding out a bit, so it may not work, not sure if that will interfere with mounting it. If this screw holds, will that be okay does anyone think. This way that could be keyed to my doors and trunk, all 1 key..................... sorry about the long thread.......Fred

Yup the usual for a lot of these cars, get the tin, migwelder, grinder and go at her, it's not that bad of a job to do. Always looks worse than it is, once everything is welded in, seamseal, prime paint and or undercoat, done.....Fred

This thread is such a big monster I have a hard time scrolling down to the bottom, I am on Dial-up, a real PITA. Maybe we should create a sequel thread, o hang on a minute, Knighthawk did that already "Winter In Kansas", at least some winter there and a little summer too..............Fred

Thanx Randy. Also does anyone know if the ignition switch can be repaired if the lock cylinder is missing the pin that holds it in place. I was wondering if a small screw would work in holding the lock cylinder into the igntion switch. Or I may need to find a another switch, or at least another lock cylinder to go into the switch body I have................Fred

The mammoth of all weather threads, it is 18 degrees here at 6:28 AM, not sure what the highs will be, but gaurenteed cold wether and more snow for this winter. I still cannot believe the replies this thread has gotten, it must be the largest of all posts.............Fred

Thanx Shel, where there is a will there is a way

Hi Bob, there are a few real old time locksmith shops in Winnipeg, hopefully they can help. I don't want the locks messed up either. Surely these locks are not too complicated to be picked and re-keyed, by a professional. The alternative is to buy new cylinders from Bernbaums, the trunks are $85, the doors are $55, plus shipping and in my case duty. So having them done locally is more attractive in my books.............Fred

Does anyone know if a locksmith can remove the lock cylinder from my trunk lock without a key. According to instructions, you need a key to be able to push in the cylinder pin to remove it, or is there some tool a locksmith would have to do this job.........thanx Fred

Tim folks up these parts grill all year round, as long as it's not real windy, the BBQ gets good and hot. Most of us keep them on our decks just out the door and right handy, nothing like a big juicy T-bone on the grill.............Fred

Hi Neil, mine don't do that so something may be wrong with them............Fred

Gary took my 47 Chrysler out for a spin down the road today, let it warm up, it is 2 above or -16 c here in the heartland today. But I have a heater, and the heatriser is still stuck in the cold position, but it was only a couple of miles. these cars throw not bad heat, I have a 160 thermostat in her too................Fred

One other question, the actual locking of the trunk and doors. Does the key just spin around in the lock cylinder and the handles are locked as in the trunk and door handles. Also can yoy lock the doors from the inside with the inside door handle, as mine does not do that, or is it only possible to lock the doors with the key in the door locks................Fred