55 Fargo

YEE Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, good for a laugh, the gummy ole sabretooth

The 66 yo woman would be classified as a Panther, 50 and older, which follows the Cougar phase, about 35 to 50, these titles being for more experienced Ladies. Hmmm, Mom must be a Sabretoothless then...................heehaw

I kind like the look of that wagon, could make a real nice cruiser with time and a lot of cash.

Frost ain't too bad in morning, it is like our early spring and fall. It is when the snow is piled up over the teardrop and some dogsled, or snowmobilers gone mad drives right over top of you cuz your buried in snow, thats when you know your in the Prairie region of Canada.

Hi Norm, I think you are correct in my not being used to a 6 v system. When I first started the engine in this car 2 years ago I used a 12 volt battery, man did that ever turn over fast compared to when I installed the 6 V battery.Happy New Year..........Fred

Cabin Fever, nah I have Chrysler fever, no hang on it's Mopar Madness, yes thats it, but Norm, it is not too early in winter in this part of Canada to get cabin fever. It is 20 outside right now, high of the same for tomorrow, this is mild for this time of year. So tomorrow, it will be a New Years Eve bon fire, it is Icelandic Tradition to have a fire on New Years to burn out the old year and bring in the new.Have a Happy New Year in Southern California.........Fred

Hi all, when comparing a 6 volt system and a 12 volt system in there ability to crank the starter motor. Should the 6 volt system crank as fast and powerful as the 12 volt system? Or should a 6 volt system be a bit slower than the 12 volt system in the ability to crank the starter motor? This is of course with a well maintained system, at 70 degrees ambient temperature. What should cranking be like at say 32 degrees ambient temperature? Just trying to determine whether my system is cranking and providing the juice it needs, or if I need to fix something that is incorrect..................Thanx Fred

ECI sells there kits for use with the Larger Chrysler spindles, if you wan to go that route. I am lucky, someone installed the smaller Plymouth spindles on my 47 Chrysler years ago, although I have the 10 inch drum brakes up front, I can convert to disc brakes using Charlies kits without having to make this change.................Fred

Bought my car in 1988 on the day of my Grandmothers funeral, bought the car from my Uncle, who started some of the fix-up process. When I go the car it had no brakes, no exhaust, no lights, no heater, no wipers, no windows, no interior including no seats, no trim, no back window. Just a body frame, engine trans and rearend, and no gas tank or decent rad. It has come a ways, but has a long way to go. I brought the car home in June of 2005, it had sat at my Grandparents homestead for 18 years outside, not covered, but was started every year. With no windows, the rain took it's toll on some of the interior sheet metal. I have been working on her 2 1/2 years, hope to finish her in about another 2 1/2 years, mostly due to money and time. I do something to further the process of finishing this car every week, no matter what.................Fred

Chucky 07 has a Fluid Drive and 3 spd on the tree, in his 52 Dodge Pickup Truck...............Fred

This is a possibility Rodney, I do see the carb body a little wet with gas, come to mention it. There is a possibility,the carb is sucking air somehow...................Thanx Fred

I like this idea of the electric fuel pump, but mine has got gas, it is either cranking too slow, or ignition is not getting enough juice out, cuz once she fires, the carb has to clear it self as if it were flooded a bit. I need to get one of you Gurus on the phone one day, and let you here how it is starting, or make a video of it and share with you guys...........Fred

Tom , pics are decieving, it's cleaned up but not show material by no means, have gravel dust under there now, as I live a few miles on a gravel road off the Highway. I have a gas tank back in already..............Fred

Hey John, you guys are straight south of here down I-29, can you send a little of the warm air to the Winnipeg area, if you guys are getting 50s we will be lucky to get 25s............Fred

Hey Charlie my niece and her husband live in Florida, they have been there less than a year. Spoke to them at Christmas, they came home, niece still likes snow for Christmas, she said it was hot and humid till darn near December, apparently it's getting a little cooler now, they live near Orlando

Here are the 1948 D24 production data, yours could be a first series 1949, so being a 1949 could be corrector you could call it a 1948 and 1/4............fred 1948 Custom Price Weight Lbs. 4 Door Sedan $1,788 3,281 Detroit: Begin 31011766 California: Begin 41022453 4 Door Town Sedan $1,872 3,331 Detroit: Begin 31011766 California: Begin 41022453 4 Door Sedan, 7 Pass. $2,179 3,757 Detroit: Begin 31011766 California: Begin 41022453 Club Coupe $1,774 3,241 Detroit: Begin 31011766 California: Begin 41022453 Convertible $2,189 3,461 Detroit: Begin 31011766 California: Begin 41022453

The serial number can be cross referenced to determine whether it is a 46, 47 or a 48. The production numbers will tell what year it is, a D24 is from 1946 to early 1949..........................Fred

Hi, is the body on or off?. If the body is off, then sandblast the frame and paint iwth a good quality paint ie, POR 15, Zero Rust, or better yet good old Rustoleum/Tremclad. If the body is on either spotblast, wirebrush/scrapers/sandpapers. Clean off all crud, rust, then degrease, then paint with either a sponge roller, brushes, or spray with HVLP, if you have the car in the air, or on it's side. Body on is a dirty tough job, but you can do it, as I have and so have others, once you get started it doesn't all that long. I see your in a winter are of the US, as long as the shop is above 40 or so the paint will dry, but it will be a slower cure at lower temps. Good luck.......Fred

Thanx Lou and Dutch, will employ some of these methods and see if it remedies the situation......................Fred

Lou, go to www.moparts.com, and look up "Paint Job on a Budget parts 3". The idea is to thin the paint to the consistency just better than water. You lay on thin coats, wetsand every 2 coats, for a toal of 6 to 8 thin coats, do a final wetsand with 2000 grit, then you poilish it all out with buffer and polish. The heavy thinning allows the paint to be rolled on, very thin, it allows the paint to self-level,minimal orange peel or bubbles, thinning it allows you a long pot life for rolling. Lou try a fender, or hood, using the prescribed method, it works well, but there is a learning curve to it. There are plenty of "case precedence", that make this a viable method to paint a car, love it or hate it, it does work, but there is work to the process, but for the average guy, who knows nothing of painting cars, has no equipment, and does not want a lot of overspray, this may be the ticket.......................Fred

Thanx Rodney, I have tried different methods to start this engine, one of the best is a slight pressing of the gas pedal to activate the auto choke, which works great. One thing I do notice is this, the engine is turning over very slowly, I do know 6 volt does turn over slower than 12 volt systems, but I don't think it should be a lot slower as mine is when cold, the ambient temp in the garage during these start-ups is about 30. I could make it 60 in there by turning up the furnace, but the way I figure it, the engine should still start good at 30 degrees.................Fred

Hi Don, I realize if the engine sits for a few days or more this will happen. But it will do this in a few hours of starting it last. This morning I started it, then left it for a few hours, went back to the car, air filter off, so I can see what is going on, pumped the gas pedal once, hit the starter button, the same thing happens, hard to start. But it will start, once the engine warms up a bit, you can shut her off, hit the starter button, and she fires up immediately. The engine is crankin slow when cold, maybe it is the battery at fault, my cables are brand new, but are #1s, not 1/0s like I mentioned before, made a mistake on that, could the #1 cables be at fault, should I get 2/0s or something................Fred

Thanx Greg, I do exactly as you have mentioned, foot to floor, sets clutch/fast idle. But it still cranks, at first and does not fire at first, I have to hit the starter button 3 to 4 times to get it to fire. I will be honest, after it does this, I have given it extra pumps of gas, not a good idea, I suppose. The engine does crank fairly slow at 30 in the garage, so maybe that is also a problem.............Fred

Hi all, this question has been raised by others as well as myself. I find when starting my car after a day or so, it takes a number of cranks, then it fires right up.Yesterday was the same, it was about 30 in the garage, and I have 15 W 40 oil in the engine. The electric choke is functioning very well, so no issues with that part of the equation. I do not think it's a case of fuel bowl dry-out, infact, often when cold starting, once the engine fires up, it seems flooded and the carb needs to clear it self for a bit, then runs right smooth. Now I am trying to determine if this is a carb thing, an ignition thing, or a coil thing, or if the battery is just cranking too slow when cold. The battery has new 1/0 cables and excellent terminals and connections, plugs were brand new in 2005, but next to no miles on them, they also look normal, the points,cap,rotor, wires, coil are all new in the same year. I did not change the condensor for some reason.................Thanx Fred

Picklex is reputed to be a great product, although I have not tried it myself, zero-rust is supposedly better than POR 15. For myself, I like Tremclad, chemically much like POR 15, at a fraction of the cost. Sounds like you are doing a bang-up job...................Fred