55 Fargo

I am drivin it, just came back from a short drive. It runs very well, but the items I mentioned need attention, as well as body and paint...... Pics take a few minutes back, in front of my Homestead

Hi Bud, at least the brakes are all new,the more modern rear brakes make a difference too. In time all will get done to my liking,but will take care of things in a priority basis.......thanx

Hey all, I am sitting here looking out my front window at my 55 fargo/dodge pickup, and wondering what? This truck will be used for some work,someplay,and will be driven on this very dusty road I live on. It may even be driven at times in winter, when not salty and sloppy, probably not a lot, but once in a while. Here is what I am thinking about, do I get all mechanical in order 1st, or do the general fix-up,on body and paint. She will be getting a fast body prep, some welding,fillers, primer and enamel paint. This will be dones by Me at home,no frame restoring or anything fancy. Mechanical I need the following , shocks, exhaust, clutch job ,with flywheel machining, rear spring lowering, tie rod ends. This and a few other items. Money, the road, and few other things will deter me from a real nice resto on this truck. What would any of you more frugal Guys suggest???

I hear you Brother, not fond of severe cold either,as most northerners aren't. I am not crazy about extreme muggy heat either. I kinda think the "beach town" weather of Southern California, is about right, all season long

Hey you Guys, ain't no drummer boy, that was my Brother, I played Guitar and a bit of clarinet, neither of which I became to great at. The handle Rockwood, is not too imaginitve on my part, work at Rockwood Correctional Facility in the R.M. of Rockwood (AKA County), so used that name, not sure why years later. Here is a pic of crusty "Ole Me", goatee, no beard Larry, real Men can handle the cold, only Young ed, Dale Uhrich, can relate, and some other Northerners in the USA

If you have Windows Movie Maker,go and make the video smaller, then load to You Tube. Then just post the link, this isdoable even with dial up....

The big 76,may have a role to play, heck you earned the right to not see the puddle. Someday I will get a better welder, but really how often do I need it, not very oftn,thats for sure. I may try the gas on my cheapo CH welder....

I used all flux core on my 47 Chrysler, and this never happenend ever 5 years later. My process, weld,wire wheel and grind down welds. I use Evercoats Metal To metal filler, along weld joint, then regular filler, primer,paint etc. I have not had 1 single patch rust or bubble, not 1 ioda. I do realize mig wireand gas,is the way to go, but flux core was the only thing I can afford and use at the moment. Someday will upgrade, I might try the gas on this unit. Its a 110 volt Campbell Hausfeld,it has gas capabilites, has anyone ever tried this unit with gas and mig wire.? Some pics of the floor repair I flux core welded and fabbed the sheet metal too. This was my first such job, not the greatest, but it was strong, and is still doing well, and is rust free...

Mine too, I need a new welding mask, gotta a cheap flipdown,gonna get an auto darkening type.

I dunno Guys, is there something different about you fuels with ethanol? Here in this province Manitoba Canada, they blend 12% ethanol into the regular gas, so far to date,have not had a single problem with lawn tractor, mower,tiller,weed whacker,snowblower,or old cars and dirtbikes. Not sure why,but not complaining either. I do use stabilzer with some of the units. The 2 stroke oil,may have a stabilizer in it too.....

Paul, these older Mopar switches, are designed to allow the park lamps and tail lights to illuminate on 1st position, the 2nd position is for the head lights and tail lights only. If you want the park light to illuminate on 1st position, and 2nd position, you may be able to wire the "A" terminal wire to the "R" terminal with the tail lamp circuit.....

Paul are these ring or bullit terminals? I would wire into "A" terminal if it were mine, assuming this is a 2 position switch. That way you have the park and tail lights together.Then a further pull, gets you the head lamps.....

On the light switch,1 terminal for park lights, 1 for headlights, 1 for tailightsand instrument panel lights. What wire you be talkin bout? If you don't have it, wire 1 in, infact, use a universal 7 wire signal stat switch,and wire in signals with dual filament sockest in park light housings,or on your temp lights. That way you have it all,park lights, brake and signal lamps, all working together in a harness.....

Durn ethanol blended gas, is reeking havoc in a lot of ways, sounds like you may be onto something here. Hey whaddya do to the neighbourhood hooch jug thief:eek:, now that would demand a tar and feathering:eek:......LOL PS ever see the movie "White Lighting",one of my favorites

Hey all how many ofyou are using self shielding fluxcore mig welders. I am still using my elcheapo CH welder, but Man it's hard to lay down nice welds with one of these toys. I would like to one day get a Miller Mig Welder,I have used one of these,and my welds look a whole lot better than my flux core box. Any tips anyone can give me to get better welds outta my flux core? Once I have welded sometin on a car or truck, I do grind down the welds, and they aren't so bad, they are generally strong welds, just not so purdy. I use Lincoln .030 wire, a and try and keep things clean, the upside is, I can weld in the wind no problem, as there is no shielding gas to worry about. I hope to1 day learn to weld with a torch, but for now all I have to work with is my old CH wire welder.

hey Paul,saw the big burn out,on You tube, keep drivin Her, maybe don't let wheel stance bother you,work on other things in the mean time....

Looks mighty mean there Scotty,looks good, glad it worked out for yall.......

Cool Paul, hope you are enjoying your truck too........

Hey Wally, maybe Paul,should drive it and enjoy, unless it is a mechanical or safety issue, thats what I would do. 1/2 inch on each side, hardly noticeable, get wider back tires............PS don't be such a perfectionist it will drive a Man insane

Stick with the old car and paint:eek:,you'll be better off in the long run;), better paint jobs and better driving:cool:.......

Nice truck Bob, hope all is going well in your world....

180-190 at 60 mph is acceptable, 212 at 70 mph, is not far from blowing out that antifreeze mixture. Is the bottom rad hose collapsing at the higher RPMs? Temps, in mountains 80s 90s, pedal to the metal=higher engine load=higher RPM= higher engine temps= normal situation. i wonder if a new modern rad, or having yours beefed up would help you out. even ifit brought the engine temps down 10 degrees in the same conditions. How about higher water to antifreeze mixture, with some Water Wetter, I have read on here, that some have done that, andit made a difference in high heat situations. Water can dissipate heat, more efficiently than glycol, but you have a lower boil temp too.

ever thought about a bunk,beer fridge and computer in the garage....LOL

congrats, nothing like that first drive...