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Yes. The first t thing is to remove the gas line going to the fuel pump,and drain all the old gas out of the gas tank and lines. Your carb will be dry,and there is no reason to be pumping rust and flat gas into it. You will be needing to add a inline gas filter BEFORE the fuel pump once you get it started,anyway. Drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Put 4 quarts of 30 weight NON --DETERGENT oil in the engine (5 is a waste because you will be draining it again right after you get it running),then use air to blow all the dirt away from the recesss where the spark plugs go,and then remove the spark plugs and spray a little WD-40 in each cylinder. Let it sit for a few minutes,and then try to turn the engine over by hand using the fan blade. If it turns easily,spray some more WD-40 in each cylinder, make sure ALL the electrical accessories are off,and then hook a 12 volt battery to it and sping the engine over with the starter while the plugs are still out. Do NOT spin the starter more than maybe 15 seconds at a time before letting go of the key and waiting a couple of minutes to let it cool down. Don't be surprised if you have to do this several times before oil pressure starts to show. I was about to quit on my 49 Chrysler because I had spun the engine over maybe a dozen times with nothing show,and I was thinking my oil pump was bad. I decided to spin it one more time,and damned if the oil pressure guage didn't jump up to 60 psi! Go into the house and drink a cup of coffee or something to let things settle back down,and then go out there again and repeat. The oil pressure gauge should show pretty much immediate oil pressure this time.. Once you get it to that point,go ahead and put NEW plugs in the engine,check the points,make sure you have fire at the coil and the plug wires,and then start it up using new gas in a can with a gas hose going straight to the carb. I have a one gallon paint can with a outlet in the bottom I use for this. I just hang it from the hood. Feel free to use anything handy,but I would be cautious about hanging any gas supply directly over the carb because of the danger of the engine backfiring and catching the car on fire. Start the car up and keep a very close eye on the gauges to make sure it maintains oil pressure and that it doesn't run hot. You DID remember to squirt a few drops of oil into the generator and distributor,right? Run it until it gets up to normal operating temps,and then shut it down and immediately drain all the oil out of it and change the filter. NOW you can put 5 quarts of NON DETERGENT 30 weight oil in it and a new filter,and move on to taking the gas tank off to have a radiator shop boil it out and blowing out the gas line after carefully checking it with air to see if it has any pin holes in it from rust. If in any doubt at all,replace the whole gas line. I prefer to do that anyhow because the old one is sure to have rust in it. This is a lot cheaper than hiring a rollback to bring you back home. When you put the gas tank back on it,make sure you put a quality gas filter in the line BEFORE it gets to the fuel pump. The reason for this is no matter how well the fuel pump is working today,you WILL be rebuilding it in the near future. Best to go ahead and plan on this and order a rebuilt kit for your pump or a rebuilt fuel pump while you are getting the gas tank done. Ditto for the water pump. You can count on replacing or rebuilding the water pump no matter how good it works when you first start the engine. Then you can move on to the wonderful world of brake systems. The guy on Ebay from Argentina makes some pretty good brake hoses,and his prices are right. ABSOLUTELY plan on replacing all the wheel cylinders,rebuilding the master cylinder,and replacing all the hard brake lines as well as the brake hoses. No,this ain't cheap,but it may save your life and the lives of others,as well as saving your car. Remember,these cars only have a single outlet master cylinder,and if you lose just one wheel cylinder or brake line,you have no brades at all other than your emergency brake. Even if you want to overlook the injury problem,do you REALLY want to be buying a replacement grille,bumper,and front fenders for that thing? Price them out and then compare that number with what it will cost you to completely rebuild the brakes,and the brake jost suddenly doesn't seem all that expensive. Take your drums to a commercial brake shop and have them turned there. New brake shoes,if you need them,are fairly easy to find. If you have problems,email me and I can turn you on to a brake shop in ND that probably has new brake shoes. Chances are they will just be the brake shoe material and you will have to get them rivited to your old shoe hardware,though. You may have to find a older brake shop to handle this for you since you probably don't have the tool to do this yourself. You may not need new shoes,though.

how 'bout some before & after pics...yer teasin' us by talkin'bout yer new springs but we wanna see'm