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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/13/2013 in all areas

  1. Recently at a car show, I saw a 48 Plymouth coupe that a one piece front glass.The guy standing next to the car when asked stated it was from some kind of Nissan car but he had no idea which one. Now i'm not above two peice glass as in original style but this modification made good sense to me. Not sure if the opening has to be changed -depending upon the glass I would guess-but need to know what it might be. Anybody have ideas? Newby here but not new to the car game. I have a '48 Plymouth coupe special deluxe. It is modified from original condition only by newer engine trans and rearend. It will not be chopped or any other nasty body modification except maybe this. No pictures yet. Bruce
    1 point
  2. OK, step back, take a deep breath and go get a nice beverage. Assuming you are playing with a P-15, you should be able to lift the arm off of the post by gently prying up on the edge of the arm while rocking it back and forth. put your screwdriver under the edge180 degrees from the arm itself. There are no threads, pins, snap rings or anything else holding it on. The arm is spring loaded to keep the blade on the glass. Wait one hour before attempting. Listen to music.
    1 point
  3. I think this topic is one of personal opinion and preference. Alot like politics or religion. We each tend to go with what works for us. That said, as hot as possible without 'overheating", is the most efficient fuel-wise. It also does tend to keep the crankcase cleaner than a cold runnig engine. While 200 may sound hot, it really isn't. I personally believe the old adage that "if it ain't losing water, it ain't overheating". Maybe a little oversimplified, but still, its worked for me for many decades. Bottom line, leave the 180 in there and quit staring at the gauge. Turn up the radio and drive on!
    1 point
  4. I don't think exhausts rust out so much from salt or rain. I think the short trips kill them quicker than anything. The exhaust doesn't get hot enough to evaporate the condensation out from the inside. Thus the collection of condensation keeps collecting and eats the pipe from the inside out. Just my opinion. Darren
    1 point
  5. Sunshine cab was run by Amos 'n Andy.
    1 point
  6. check the videos. http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLWNVrNIcasPEEzeRp7acvQ
    1 point
  7. He said that it is in his Willys pickup , but is it mounted in the engine compartment or is it laying in the bed ? Just wondering .
    1 point
  8. I have a '39 Plym conv coupe which I have been working on since I found the car sitting in a field in Montana. I like cars that are reliable, safe, and can be used to drive locally and on extended road trips.. I did a lot of research on the options available to up-grade/modernize the mechanical aspects of my car... I wanted to retain the original looks of the car. Of course the Mopar purists advised me to put an early Hemi engine, or a 440 w/727 trans and a Ford 9" in the car if I wanted to improve the performance.. After much research I settled on a FatMan front clip w/power rack and 11" disk brakes.. FatMan is the only company that makes front clips especially designed for the Plymouths.. My engine is a 2002 350 CID 330 HP w/ 700R4 trans.. The rear end is a early Camaro/Nova 10 bolt, 8.3/4"... The rear end measures 54 1/4" backing plate to backing plate, 61-1/2" OD... The 54-1/4" ID measurement is the same as the original differential. I used Posie rear springs... I had to make special rear shackles "C" shaped because the original style open "U" shackles tended to rotate the spring. My wheels are special made steel 15x7 with early spring clip type centers to fit my original '39 hub caps. Tires are P205R60/15 front & rear. The car has PS, PB, AC, cruise & tilt. It drives like a dream cruising at 70 mph turning 2,100 rpm... Emergency stops and/or maneuvers are handled like any modern car. My one regret is that I did not use a Mopar 340/360 engine... Maybe someday I will...Bill
    1 point
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