KINGSWAY52 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Posted July 20, 2008 Hey all ! I'm haveing some problem with overheating with my engine.I've done the following thing's to try get rid off it.Flushed the block,new rad (from Rockwood) new watherpump adjusted timing and carburator.I know the head has been taken down twise don't now how mutch.Wandering if the komp can be to high and that causing the heat?Anyone with any suggestion's what to do? The temp where I live is between 16 to 23 degrees celsius.I'm thinking of changing the head since that what's left to do.................Roar Quote
greg g Posted July 20, 2008 Report Posted July 20, 2008 please explain what happes when it over heats. How soon after start up, this a new problem or something that just popped up. Are you loosing coolant? how hot is hot have you checked with a know accurate thermometer? Quote
KINGSWAY52 Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Posted July 20, 2008 Well I can sometime's drive all day long and no overheating,and other day's just driving about 3 km and engine goes to 105 +degree celsius,last tripp on saturday it boild over,I've chekd with termometer when ideling for five to ten min and showing 85 celsius...............Roar. ps The problem started in 2006 but that do to a clogd radiator,I did change the head then touth it was the headgasket then but...Engine from a 47 dodge (big thermostathous)(eksternal bypass?) The head I've been using from a 49 plymouth don't remember term house think it was missing or te small one.....Roar Quote
greg g Posted July 20, 2008 Report Posted July 20, 2008 Have you tired running it with out the thermostat? Do you know the condition of your internal water distribution tube??? check the maing page for a description of the tube and why its important. Quote
KINGSWAY52 Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Posted July 20, 2008 Well here's the list over what's been done so far:New rad,new waterpump coler sparkplugs,I've a minihei and a weber from Landon installed,I've flush the block water distribution tube cheked and okay have also changed the frostplugs..........Roar ps timing is set to 3 degrees after TDC,engine still have some knocking under heavy load.Was driving 4 km today without termostat and temp goes up to 105 c but did'nt loose colant.... Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 20, 2008 Report Posted July 20, 2008 The more I hear about the timing issues with the Langdon HEI the happier I am with my dual points setup. Quote
Normspeed Posted July 20, 2008 Report Posted July 20, 2008 If you haven't actually replaced the old thermostat I would try that. They can stick. Quote
martybose Posted July 21, 2008 Report Posted July 21, 2008 Are you running ported vacuum or manifold vacuum? I agree with Shel; 3 degrees ATDC is just wrong!! On my 230 with a mini-HEI I run 4 degrees BTDC with manifold vacuum and the counterweights tie-wrapped so there is no centrifugal advance. Before I tie-wrapped the counterweights I would start heating up at highway speeds due to too much total advance. Marty Quote
55 Fargo Posted July 21, 2008 Report Posted July 21, 2008 Roar, what condition is your bottom rad hose, is it collapsing at higher rpm/speeds, the rad I sold you was cleaned and repaired before I shipped it you. Is it possible this rad is still suspect?. Maybe the flow is okay, but maybe it's heat transfer abilitiy is not what it should be? Does your engine cool down at lower speeds, or does it only get hot on the highway going faster than 80 kmh (50 mph). You have covered most items, block clean, new head, waterpump, timing issues maybe a problem. Is your heat riser stuck in the wrong position? Usually these engines tend to be bit coldhearted, but some of the guys, myself included have gone through bouts of overheating. I really believe running without a t/stat could make these engines run hotter. Quote
KINGSWAY52 Posted July 21, 2008 Author Report Posted July 21, 2008 Well Fred as for the rad hose that one is fine,(pipe with bend inside).The engine get hot upphill and cools down at downhilll or flat land but sometimes it just don't goes down.As for the timing I know it sound's strange,but it's 3 after at ideling and when I rew the engine (2200 rpm)it's about 4 before TDC so I don't think that's the problem,I'm going the way and put back the head that was on the engine when I got it later today.I'll let you guy's know later.......Roar... Quote
KINGSWAY52 Posted July 21, 2008 Author Report Posted July 21, 2008 Well then I've change the head,and now there is another problem.Engine run's smoother ,cooler,but a little high at idle 900 rpm timing shows 4 - 8 degree BTDC,so hurray problem solved as it look's now.Have not shecked the other head but it seem's to be there the trouble has been,maybe it didn't fit the engine,do to the bypass ting or maybe it has been take'n down to much I don't now................Roar:D Quote
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