falconvan Posted April 26, 2011 Author Report Posted April 26, 2011 That looks great! I think I'm leaving mine aluminum but I'll see when I get closer. I actually got to spend a whole day on this myself for a change! My body guy is still going strong; he's got a skim coat of filler on the quarter and the A-pillar fix is done. Still haven't got my parts back from the blaster. This guy is good, cheap, but he takes forever. Hopefully he'll get them done this week. I got my brackets for the rack n pinion tacked in and did a test fit on the drive train. At first it looked like the oil pan wasn't going to clear so I re read the directions and ended up moving the rack mounts down 2". Now were getting close. Looks like I'm going to need a different trans cross member. I've got a 3" drop but I'm going to need a 2" to get the drive line angles right. But at least I'm making progress; that feels pretty good. Quote
Greenbomb Posted April 26, 2011 Report Posted April 26, 2011 That right front corner looks like it was made that way!! Good job and good progress. Quote
falconvan Posted April 26, 2011 Author Report Posted April 26, 2011 Thanks! I'm hoping to have this in primer and mounted to the frame with the running gear in place by the end of May. That may be pushing it but you have to set goals or you never get finished. Quote
falconvan Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Posted April 29, 2011 Got everything back from the blaster last night! I'm happy; I expected some swiss cheese but everything is pretty solid. Only some minor patching on one door bottom, the lower decklid inside edge, and one inner fenderwell will be needed. I'll have to build one good decklid from the two I have but it looks like it wont be too bad. Pics to follow this weekend. Quote
falconvan Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Posted May 3, 2011 I spent about 10 hours on this yesterday and got pretty far. I swapped out the 4 inch drop cross member for a two inch drop, got the rack and pinion mounts welded in and built motor mounts. Everything came out good, I'm happy. Trying to weld upside down was a chore, I kept getting burned so i lifted this sucker up so i could sit and do it. Quote
falconvan Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Posted May 3, 2011 (edited) Here's my doors and fenders after blasting; very little rot to fix which was really cool. Edited May 3, 2011 by falconvan Quote
Greenbomb Posted May 4, 2011 Report Posted May 4, 2011 You did get a lot done. And good tin will help too, timewise. Quote
Roger the Dodger Posted May 4, 2011 Report Posted May 4, 2011 Nice, let us know how it works and lasts! I think I actually might have the same Coleman 20 gallon 5 HP. It's not 15 like I thought, it's 20 but it's on a job site right now so I dont know. I should know the brand in my head but do not. Heck, I wake up sometimes and cant even remember what day it is and I'm only 21!!! Only 21 and got Old Timers and having Seniors Moments. Boy thats scary. I am three times your age and it is only just starting.:) Quote
falconvan Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Posted May 4, 2011 You did get a lot done. And good tin will help too, timewise. You aren't kidding; I've spent the better part of two years patching the body on this thing so having all the doors and fenders come out good was a huge plus. I might even see this thing on the road in the next few years at this rate! Quote
falconvan Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Posted May 5, 2011 OK, time to start putting it together for real. I pulled the drive train back out and installed the flywheel and torque converter. For anyone who is wondering how you mate the LS series engines with the pre-LS transmissions, you need this hub adapter and the stock LS flexplate. I used a TCI 2800 stall converter and had the 700 R4 trans rebuilt using TCIs new constant pressure valve body to protect from clutch burnout from a misadjusted TV cable. Next step is to clean up the frame and repaint all the area that got scratched up during the last few years of changes. Then we can start plumbing the brakes. Quote
falconvan Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Posted May 16, 2011 This is completely the wrong way to paint a chassis but I said the heck with it and went for it. Id painted this a few years ago but the off brand chassis paint I used scratched easy plus I had to hack off my original steering setup and start over. So really it needed a lot of touch up. I'm sold on the look and toughness of POR-15 but it pretty well puts an end to the life of a paint gun because you'll never get it clean and I didn't want to brush it on. I went to Harbor Freight and found a regular suction paint gun for $12. Mostly plastic, made in Indonesia (where all quality tools are made). I loaded it up with straight paint, no reducer, cranked the air pressure to 80psi, opened the feed wide open, kept it moving as fast as I could, and laid it all on in one coat. When I was done, I threw the gun away. It really came out nice; good gloss, no runs, plus this stuff is as tough as nails. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted May 17, 2011 Report Posted May 17, 2011 And, presumably, you wore a mask, gloves and old clothes. I don't think that stuff likes to come off of anything....... Quote
falconvan Posted May 17, 2011 Author Report Posted May 17, 2011 All except the gloves but luckily, I didnt get any on me. Mask for sure; the fumes from that stuff will take you out pretty quick. Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted May 17, 2011 Report Posted May 17, 2011 Did you have to strip the frame to metal to use thr POR 15 or did it go over the old stuff? Thanks Quote
falconvan Posted May 17, 2011 Author Report Posted May 17, 2011 I just cleaned up the other stuff I had on there and went right over it. A few years ago I had the frame sandblasted and sprayed it with epoxy primer and two coats of an Ebay chassis paint I'd bought. It looked great at the time but was not very durable. This time I scuffed the other paint good with some 320, wiped it with some tack rags, and sprayed it. Quote
falconvan Posted May 27, 2011 Author Report Posted May 27, 2011 After selling my last project this weekend, it sure is nice to see some open space in the garage again. I started putting the shocks on, running brake lines, and going through several boxes of parts to see what I'm going to need. I had all the boxes from the 47 I took apart plus several from this car that had already been mostly apart when I got it. I spent a while tonight cleaning up different body mount brackets and painting them. Also ordered a body mount kit, power window kit, and a kit to eliminate the vent windows. Should be test fitting the body to the frame on Memorial Day. Quote
Greenbomb Posted May 27, 2011 Report Posted May 27, 2011 Good progress! And you can never have too much room! Quote
falconvan Posted May 28, 2011 Author Report Posted May 28, 2011 That's for sure; no matter how much I clean I still end up with piles of parts scattered everywhere. I definitely want A/C in this but I wanted to save a few $$ and find something other than an aftermarket unit. I went scouring the boneyard today and found this; a rear air unit from a full size conversion van. It has an evaporator with the expansion valve, a heating coil, a three speed fan, and two air outlets. I think it'll work; seems to fit under the dash pretty well. I just need to find or make a grill for the front. Quote
Greenbomb Posted May 28, 2011 Report Posted May 28, 2011 That looks pretty good. Is it air only, or heat, too. Do you know what brand it is? Quote
falconvan Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Posted May 29, 2011 It's air and heat; made by a company called Pro-Air. Quote
thrashingcows Posted May 29, 2011 Report Posted May 29, 2011 It's air and heat; made by a company called Pro-Air. That's sweet...I've been looking for a Heat/A/C unit for my 48 Desoto as well. Seems like I might have to keep my eyes open when I'm at the wreckers. Thank you for the info. Was it a Ford/Chevy/Dodge conversion van? And about what year? Quote
falconvan Posted May 30, 2011 Author Report Posted May 30, 2011 Happy Memorial Day, everyone! I hope you all got to spend time with your loved ones and working on your projects which is what I've been doing all weekend. I did some more brake line plumbing and mounted the proportioning valve and worked on the brake pedal assembly. I didn't want the GM pedal pad so I cut it off and welded on a bracket to mount the 48 pad. Next thing was to work on the doors. I decided to go with bear claw latches and found a step by step how to on Rod & Custom's website with some good pictures. Quote
falconvan Posted May 30, 2011 Author Report Posted May 30, 2011 Started by cutting some access panels so I could get to the back of the latch and the strike. I basically duplicated exactly what they did in the article. Quote
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