Radiator Out

[Aaron]

I have been working on a 1948 B1B now that had been sitting for about 20 years. I have had it running a very little bit (runs smooth). I have just pulled the radiator because it started leaking in a few different places! I will take that into a local radiator shop to see what they can do.

My question is, should I do anything else while the radiator is out of the front of this pickup other that replace the old cracked belt? Does the water pump or anything else need attention possibly?

[bach4660]

if you like punishment there is a water distribution tube that you could replace, see this link http://www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html

[grey beard]

I'd also suggest you pull that water distribution tube while you can get to it. AND, while you're that far along, why not remove all the block core plugs and the petcock, down there near the base of the oil fill tube at the block. With all that stuff out of the way, you can really do a good job of cleaning out the water jacket.

If your engine is like mine, you will find lots of junk and dirt at the lowest level of the water jadket, near the petcockd drain outlet. Dig it out with a piece of wire or with a long air blow gun and then flush it out with water. The cleaner you can get the water jacket in your engine, the cooler it will run this summer. JMHO

[Andydodge]

Water Tube?........nah.......its more fun pulling fingernails..............and after spending 3-4weeks trying to get one out without success, I'd go for the fingernails every time........seriously tho I'd pull the welsh plugs, draincock and water pump but unless the tube comes out easily, I'd leave it for the time being and cleanout behind the plugs, hose the water jackets, etc........shoot the hose down the water tube if it won't come out, it'll all help.......andyd.

[Aaron]

I think I will wait on the water tube until I pull the motor some winter and have it rebuilt, but in the meantime, Do I need to pull the water pump for any reason? If I do, what would need to be done to it?

[MBF]

I'd grab the fan and check for front to back or side to side play. If it clunks, I'd pull it and replace it-no sense in having the fan go through your newly repaired radiator. You may also want to check timing chain play by pulling the distributor cap and rocking the crankshaft back and forth to see how far the crank has to turn before the rotor moves. I'd used a never sieze compound on all the fasteners when you're putting it back together in case there is a next time! Mike

[sams50b2d]

I took the radiator from my Power Wagon into the local shop and the guy wanted to re-core it for about $1000. Then I took it into a small operation radiator shop and he cleaned and repaired it for $45. My $955 worth.

[Guest El Rust box]

I think I will wait on the water tube until I pull the motor some winter and have it rebuilt, but in the meantime, Do I need to pull the water pump for any reason? If I do, what would need to be done to it?

Something funny that has always stuck with me is, " shake hands with your water pump, if it moves, it will need replacing soon". Just a thought.

[Aaron]

I took my radiator into a small radiator shop that has been in business for many, many years. He said if he can repair it, it will cost me around $100, if he can't fix it and has to get a new core for it, I will be looking at around $450.

[Aaron]

Of course I wasn't lucky enough for the core to be repairable! He is ordering a new core and said the fix will cost me $438 bucks.

Make sure you are flushing your radiators out every couple years everyone. The coolant turns to acid over time and will eat the core out!

[Dodgeb4ya]

Think copper-- as in radiator core--think lotsa money!

Bob

[MBF]

I think its the dissimilar metals at work that is actually causing the damage. You've got copper, brass, cast iron, steel, galvanized freeze plugs, etc. With this older stuff you really do need to change the coolant every 2-3 years to prevent corrosion. I know that the big trucks have a stick that they can use to check the ph of the coolant and adjust it accordingly. GM solved some of this problem when they went to aluminum radiators with the plastic tanks in the 80's, but the heater cores were still a problem.

[Aaron]

Ok Folks, $435 later, I have my old radiator back with a new core and paint job.

[Merle Coggins]

Is it a honeycomb core like the original, or a newer style tube and fin core? I had to have mine recored and it cost around that much, maybe a little less (I'm remembering around $385). It's a tube and fin core. They could have done a honeycomb core, but they said it would cost an additional $300-$400. Perfect originality wasn't THAT important.

Merle