49 chrysler

[CWebster]

Been lurking for a while and finally got my clearance to post.....love the site and have learned quite a bit from it. Pics of my 49 Chrysler Windsor 4-door sedan. Picked it up locally and was able to drive it on and off the trailer and for a few white knuckle miles around the hood. Brakes are the first things to be fixed (needs two pumps before i've got brakes) and then she needs new shoes. I'm hoping to keep it as original as possible, just a little bit lower. Anyway, just wanted to pop in and introduce myself. I own a fab shop in Flint, MI, so if anyone needs something fab'd up I might be able to help out.

Chris:cool:

[CWebster]

These are the tires that came on it. As you can see there is a rub from the steering arm. Is there anything I can do to get some clearance? The tires have some life left to them and I would like to run them out before replacing, but obviously the size is incorrect.

Chris

[Dennis Hemingway]

Welcome to the FORUM. That's a good looking car.

You can look for wheel spacers at your local auto parts store.

Dennis

[CWebster]

Might have to try spacers. I thought about doing that, but wasn't sure if I would create any other problems by doing so. I'd have to go about 1/2" (I think) to clear any bulges from bouncing over our lovely michigan potholes...er, roads. Thanks for the replies.

Chris

[greg g]

What size oar those tires? And I wonder of the ront rims are stock. Looks like some one may have put later model wheels on with to much backspacing.

The back space,(the distance from the edge of the rim to the back of the lug bolt mounting area shouldn't be more that 3 3/4 to 4 inches max. Wonder if some where alng its life sombody traded the rims for somthing from a different car.

Hard to tell with the hubcaps on but perhaps you could address the problem by checking that the front and rear rims are the same and if not maybe swaping them end for end if the back space measurement is different.

[PatS....]

Welcome, I too have a '49 Chrysler, although it's far from driveable

Yours looks very nice. I'm putting discs on the front from Rustyhope.

[BobT-47P15]

Hi and welcome. Nice looking car. What size are the current

tires? Some are a bit too fat for these old Mopars.

[49DODGEBOY]

WELCOME, SWEET RIDE....

Dig the front bumper with all the bumperettes....

[55 Fargo]

This is common with tires that are too wide, usually beyond P205 75 15, can produce this effect, what about spacers behind the rims.........Fred

[billwillard]

Great find. Doesnt look like its rubbing real bad to me but I am not there. If it isn't rubbing real bat you might get away with just putting a flat washer on each stud.

[CWebster]

Thanks for the reply's....

The tire size is L78-15. I like the size and look plus the 2 rears have some good life left to them, so I'll probably just space the fronts out and see how it functions.

On to another question....

I'm having an electrical issue......

Both my headlights work on high beams, driverside goes out on low beams, my rear running lights both work, but I have no brake lights when I hit the brakes and only my right turn signal works (barely flashes and only does so when the headlights are off and the parking lights are on). I haven't gone through the bulbs to see if replacing them might cure my problems yet, but I wanted to get opinions before I spent money needlessly....any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Chris Webster

[greg g]

Most electrical problems on these old cars is related to poor grounds. the grounds get corroded adding resistance tot he circuit. If your still 6 V it is more critical since 6 V needs good current flow to work properly.

So go through and trace your grounds. Some will have wires like the headlamps and some will be just to the body mount like the tail lights. If you need to run new wire to new good non corroded grounds or make sure the wires and ground areas are in good shape. For those that are grounded to the body, you can test them by making a ground jumper with a lenght aof wire and a couple aligator clips. Clip one end to the fixture and one end to a good ground, if the lamp brightens or improves its function you know what it needs. You can either clean and tighten the present ground or run a permanent wire to a know good ground.

Also you might want to consider running a ground strap from the body to the frame or engine to improve the whole ground circuit.

Next thing is to consider you primary battery cables. Over they years alot of these get replaced with 12 V style wires which are too thin to carry the current the 6 v system needs. Battery to solenoid, and solenoid to starter wires should be minimum 1 gauge wire, same for the ground strap.

So start by checking you grounds, then there is a terminal block where the wires split to go to the light. This is usually on the radiator support it will have three or four posts with wires connected. these are for lows highs and parking lamps. Check these out and make sure they are clean and tight and the treminals on the wires are in good shape. If you feel you need to run new wires, again remember if you are dealing with 6V they need to be thicker than 12v stuff. headlamp should be 10 gauge, parking lamps can be 12 or 14.

You can also check your headlamp switch connections to make sure they are in good shape. Be careful if you start yanking on wires under the dash board. The insulation can be very fragile with age and will crack and break off if you move them around a lot.

By the way your L78 are equivelent or slightly larger than current 235 75 radials.

conventional wisdom suggests that 215 are optimal replacements for our cars.

I have 225's on the rear of my 46 Plymouth 205 on the front. The 225's rub a bit in turns if I have a load in the trunk.

[CWebster]

Thanks Greg! I appreciate the info and the time you took to respond. These old cars are new to me and although I've learned a ton, I know there's lots more to go.

Chris

[CWebster]

I got the rear tailights, running lights, and stoplights functioning in all switch positions (and switch off)....which was a nice change. I think that pulling the bulbs and wiping off the contacts and cleaning the ground connections that I could get to allowed things to function better. I also found a wire going to the drivers side tailight assembly missing about a half inch of covering right where it passed thru the sheetmetal. The only odd thing about the reartailights is that the rightside tailight blinks considerably faster than the left. Don't know if this is an indication of anything or acceptable. The front lights are a different story. One headlight works on low and the other headlight works on high....neither work together. Also I have leftside turnsignals with parking lights on and no lights on, nothing when headlights are on. Rightside parking lights work but no turnsignal at any switch position. I think my next course of action is to address the terminal block on the radiator support. The connections are all very rusty and several of the wires are missing their coverings. I also noticed that some of the wiring at the (Voltage regulator?) firewall were replaced with newer stuff....and it looks to be to thin in comparison to the original stuff.

[CWebster]

Could be more than one problem. Greg's suggestions should be helpful. Your idea of checking the bulbs will also help. Low beam problem could well be just a bad bulb. Swapping the headlights will show if that is the case.

6V headlight bulbs (6006) are readily available. No need to pay big bucks for them. Advance or any of the parts stores should have them.

Edit; those L78's aka 235's are wide. I have 235's on the back of my '48, but can't get them on the front. I like the ride.

I tried a couple of the chain parts stores and had no luck with those 6006 lights or any 6v stuff at all. Luckily I had kept my hopes firmly in my back pocket and didn't suffer my usual disappointment when trying to get parts for this car. I think I probably just need to get to a parts store with less training manual, data entry clerks and one with more knowledgeable, hands-on clerks.

I like the looks of the L78's, but they are definitely to wide without spacers. The spare tire (which looks to be original) is an H78-15.

Thanks for the help.

Chris

[BobT-47P15]

Regarding the parking lights and headlights....would it be possible that the

previous owner has connected both the headlights and park lights to the

same post on the connector strip at the left front, under the hood? That

might cause some confusion between the lights. They each connect to

different posts. The strip is on the right in this picture....with colored

wires. Just a thought.

Do you have a repair manual showing how things are done on the car?

[PatS....]

Don't forget that originally, when the headlights went on, the park lights went out, then operating only as turn signals.

Sounds like bad connections/bad grounds. Maybe a bad dimmer switch as well.

[CWebster]

Advance $5.99

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=SYL&MfrPartNumber=6006

NAPA priced a bit higher at $14.29

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&Keyword=lamp&KeywordCat=Headlight+Bulb+-+Automotive+%26+Motorcycles&VehCode=Y

These should be available through the parts counter special order if not in stock. .

Much of your problems may be solved with some wire repair. I would swap the headlights to see if the problem swaps with the bulb before reaching for the wallet for a head lamp. Good to have a spare bulb.

The flasher speed is dependent upon how many bulbs are working, and wiring condition. (resistance total)

Thanks Shel_bizzy, I knew it couldn't be as difficult as the parts clerk we're making it out to be. Acted like I was searching for the holy grail....

I agree with the wire repair. I cleaned up the rear wiring and it helped a ton, just haven't had a chance to get into the front.....it's going to take a lot more to clean up than the rear. I'm trying to think the process thru before I start pulling connections and wires and get myself lost. I believe a few digital pics and some of those wire number stickers oughta keep me pretty straight.

On a side note, my interior wiring (in the car and in the trunk) looks fantastic...which was a pleasant surprise. The wiring cover is still pliable and almost looks new. I hate to add modern wiring to it (where I have to eliminate the underhood stuff because of condition) but I think thats the sacrifice I'll have to make. Anyways, thanks for all of your advice.

Chris

[CWebster]

Don't forget that originally, when the headlights went on, the park lights went out, then operating only as turn signals.

Sounds like bad connections/bad grounds. Maybe a bad dimmer switch as well.

I was curious if that was the case with the park lights. I believe I just have a bad bulb in the rightside park/turnlight. I will get into it this weekend. Thanks.

Chris

[CWebster]

Regarding the parking lights and headlights....would it be possible that the

previous owner has connected both the headlights and park lights to the

same post on the connector strip at the left front, under the hood? That

might cause some confusion between the lights. They each connect to

different posts. The strip is on the right in this picture....with colored

wires. Just a thought.

Do you have a repair manual showing how things are done on the car?

That's nice and clean! Mine is a little different than yours, at least by the looks and location. I believe that cleaning connections and repairing suspect wiring is my main problem. I do have a shop manual, but there is no wiring diagram for that front terminal.....I've read it cover to cover, but could still be overlooking it.

Chris

[greg g]

Before you go yanking wires, you might want to invest in a circuit tester. these are a simple probe with a bulb and a ground wire. Most are 12v now but will still give you an indication if and where you have power. You just conntec the ground and then use the other end to ascertain whether there is power at the accessory at the terminal block at the switch outlet etc.

these can usually be found anywhere tools or auto parts are sold. prices from 4 buck or so and up depending on country of origin and quality. I have a couple from each end of the scale either or are fine for occasional use.

[blueskies]

Before you go yanking wires, you might want to invest in a circuit tester.

Even better, get an inexpensive voltage tester that will check continunity. this will allow you to check the fillaments on the bulbs to determine if they are indeed burned out.

Pete