55 Fargo Posted February 17, 2008 Report Posted February 17, 2008 Hi all, got my new fuel sender this week, the float arm was too long, so I needed to shorten the float arm about 3 inchs. My new tank is 8 and 1/8 inches deep. I shortened the arm to be just off the bottom, so when the tank reads empty, there would be about a gallon of gas left. On this repop sender, I removed the float arm from the brass shaft fitting on the sender, I then cut the float arm to size. When I re-installed the float arm in to the brass piece on the sender, it was now loose fitting, not tight fitting as it was before. What I did was mix some fibreglass resin and apply a dab on the end of the float arm and reinsert it into the brass hole on the sender fitting, this cured and is nice and tight. My question is, will gasoline have any negative effect on the small dab of fibreglass resin I used to secure the float arm.............Fred Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 17, 2008 Report Posted February 17, 2008 could you not have soldered it being brass..I think that would be the long term fix.. Quote
40phil41 Posted February 17, 2008 Report Posted February 17, 2008 Fred, I believe that the longer arm sending unit is for the truck application. Phil Quote
40phil41 Posted February 17, 2008 Report Posted February 17, 2008 Fred, FWIW, I have used fiberglass patches on pin-hole leaks in gas tanks before and they seemed to last forever. But in my case there was the fiberglass cloth and resin combined. Phil Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 17, 2008 Author Report Posted February 17, 2008 The amount of fibreglass resin used was just a dab on the end of the float arm shaft, the shaft goes into the hole, the resin then dries and holds like glue, I just wanted it more secure and tight. I probably should have soldered it, maybe I should still do that, I do not know how to solder very well, could get someone to do it.Should I clean off the fibreglass resin first, or would heat melt it off. The sender is mounted in the tank, but I have not used any gasket sealant yet, I am not going to put gas in the tank till warm weather, that way if there are any leaks, i can deal with it outside. What might be a remedy on this. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 17, 2008 Author Report Posted February 17, 2008 The reason I bought the truck sender is this, I thought it was made in reverse, as that is what my aftermarket tenk requires, but the repop sender can have there float arm moved to either direction, by loosening a set screw on the sender shaft. Ed J. was very nice to trade me this sender for another to help me deal with this aftermarket tank.Fred Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 17, 2008 Author Report Posted February 17, 2008 Here is a pic of the new tank, you can see the filler neck flange is secured to the tank via machine screws and gasket, then a hose followed by a metal elbow. I just want to make sure this baby does not leak, I am not overly impressed with thisconcept. I did use aviation sealant on the gasket first...........Fred Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 17, 2008 Author Report Posted February 17, 2008 The sender in question, you can see how the repops are made..........Fred Quote
40phil41 Posted February 17, 2008 Report Posted February 17, 2008 Thanks for the details Fred. What you are doing makes perfect sense to me now. Does the aftermarket tank require specific mounting straps or do the original straps still fit? Phil Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 17, 2008 Author Report Posted February 17, 2008 Hi Phil the new tank came with universal straps, thich I adapted to the stock oem brackets that were attached to the trunk floor, not the most elegant but they are solid and secure...................Fred Quote
40phil41 Posted February 17, 2008 Report Posted February 17, 2008 Thanks Fred. Good looking installation to me. Phil Quote
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