Painting: The Touch?

[randroid]

Gents,

As the light of Spring is becoming visible at the long end of the dark Winter tunnel my attention is once again turning toward painting my '48 P-15, and I've found myself in a bit of a quandary over an issue. I'd like your input.

I've done enough sanding during my short life that I have experienced and can feel when a surface is sanded correctly; I explained this to my Lady Wife by analogizing it to cleaning a kitchen counter.

(Before I go any farther, let me assure you that Lady Lynn is her own woman, not to mention a Marriott-trained Chef who knows the difference between a clean counter and a dirty one because she could feel it.)

My thoughts are such; I'll sand the metal to at least 280 then apply two coats of primer. Okay, no sweat I can feel when that's sanded well at 320 or so, so I apply the first two coats of paint and hit it with 600-800, and if I pay attention I'll feel that change, too. Thing is, that's the finest grit I've ever used and I question if when I get around 2000 grit can I still feel it?

I can only assume that as I work the massive P-15 through four sandings I'll develop whatever touch I need but I wouldn't mind a little input, as in thoughts and advice.

Thanks,

-Randy

[Plymouthy Adams]

Randy..your finger touch is not going to detect the wave that hand sanding will put into the finish..now when you do the presand of the 280-320 grit and apply your primer surfacer you will have the base needed to begin your block sanding using a BLOCK (3m is best) with 500 grit and soap and water..soap is a media that will lube as block and prevent sticking that flat surfaces will do when wet...use a small 3" squeege block to wipe your immediate area you are sanding..any pin hole or sand scratch will leave water behind and be noticable to your eye...these are the basics...the larger block (I prefer 9") the less wave a car finish will have..also the longer strokes make for no wave..small block strokes will produce a wave that will not be seen by the squeege but will reflect down the sideof a body when top coated...when you think you may have it right, quick coat of water will reflect the exact surface the paint will have when applied...it is not just a quick in and out and requires plenty of time and patience to lay the primer to a nice even level without pinholes and sand scratches..you will develop your technique over rounded sections and curves..sharp creases door edges etch will not have the same amount of base paint as the flat rurface near it..law of appliction..be careful not to break through here as yo uwill have to re-apply primer...

Now if you just want a top coat to stick..your method will work..

[steveplym]

I agree with Tim and a 3m block is best. Easier to sand. Also in the curves and corners they make a soft block. Avoid using just your hand and a piece of sand paper. I never believed it, but you will have uneven streaks from your fingers.

Using a squeege really helps as you wet sand. Another trick is to use a guide coat. Once you get ready to sand the primer, spray a mist coat of black spray paint on an area you may have some high or low spots. Once all the spray paint mist has been sanded off you know there are no more low spots in that area. There are several products out there that will work, but I just use cheap spray paint as it works just as good.

[48Dodger]

Amen Tim. Water so not to stick, Water to keep the sandpaper its true grit#, Water to preview the topcoat, Water to keep it clean from drying primer residue slime, and Water to get the sweat out of your eyes!

Better to use guide coat. Cheap paint can cause you to sand off to much that expensive primer......but than again, ina pinch, I've been known to shoot a can from 20" away.lol:D

48D

[randroid]

Gents,

Thanks for your replies and the useful info. I learned about using dish soap in the water on this forum about a year ago, but I'm afraid I didn't word the original question very well. I plan on using a sponge and\or block though out the entire job, along with a squeegee, but I'm curious if I'll be able to "feel" when I've sanded enough or will I need to depend solely on my eyes?

I'll get the job done to my satisfaction but while contemplating whatever pitfalls I may encounter I'm afraid I got ahead of myself.

Thanks again for the info; I'm sure I'll have many more questions once the job gets underway.

-Randy

[Plymouthy Adams]

Randy..in the "feel" you can pretty much lighly brush your hand over an area and get the feel for overall larger area..this can be amplified with just a paper towel between your hand the surface..amplifies the finish..but the squeege and block will show more than anything else and will be even further speeded along with the guide coat...I think you have a pretty good grip on what needs be done..going on feel alone..not a good idea..again I cannot stress enough the importance of long block with longer strokes where you can...use the ole water hose to check your progress..you be amazed at the sheen it will give and for a few fleeting seconds when it is at its thinnest prior too runoff..this will be your topcoat...sorry about Tony...but he wasn't much of a fisherman eh?

[Don Coatney]

  Tim Adams said:

sorry about Tony...but he wasn't much of a fisherman eh?

:D

[Plymouthy Adams]

the first peson who does not understand that comment and really would like to be in the know..PM me with your mailing address..that be the only way I will spill the beans on this...Right Randy and Don!!!!!

[randroid]

Don,

If anybody wants to know what happened to Tony, have them send me a check for $12.00 and a snail mail addy; they can find out for themselves. LOL, Tony was the only character I didn't need to 'create'; he's too much of a character for me to need to 'improve', and I certainly couldn't invent somebody like him. He was one of my best friends until long after he moved to OK.

-Randy

[Guest 57plymouth]

One additional trick I have learned through the years:

Don't use your dominant hand to feel for imperfections.

If you are right handed, use your left hand. Your non-dominant hand is much more sensitive to imperfections than your dominant hand. Especially after sanding!

[randroid]

Gents,

Something I learned while studying wooden boat building: Only use the back of your hand for feeling because it has no oil glands, whereas the palm of your hand does. Might not make any difference because we sand our cars differently than boat builders sand their wood, but unless you wipe the paint with solvent between coats...

-Randy