Another lowering thread, long intro

[Normspeed]

Thought it might be less confusing (to me) if there were a separate thread on lowering by more old style methods. I'd dearly love to put a fatman spindle kit in my P24 but it ain't in the budget right now, and I don't have any torch skills at all. Here's my story...this is on a P24 but almost identical suspension to the P15-D24s.

I had already dropped the rear end 2 1/4" with blocks. With my Hi Jackers I can still tow the teardrop at a respectable level, and I plan to fine tune with a 3" raised hitch receiver. So today I swapped in my front springs. Car is a 53 wagon, and I used springs from a 50 3-window coupe, and cut one full coil from them. This put the cut springs at exactly 2" shorter than the stock wagon coils. When I put them in, I ended up with a 4" drop, not the 2 or so I was looking for. The handling changed pretty drastically, with the car wanting to track from side to side, and the steering not returning to center from a turn as strongly as before. I figure this is all in the tow-in and camber adjustments, and could be cleaned up by a good shop. I don't know diddly about that.

The ride is "choppy" as mentioned, but acceptable and kinda neat. No restrictions on turn radius at full locks. I did some full-lock figure 8's in the parking lot, no problems. I'd like to bring the front up an inch or 2 though. But I'd hate to cut the original wagon springs that I took out.

Here's a photo or two of how it looks now. That's with zero lbs of air in the air shox. My options:

Drop the back a little more with bigger lowering blocks;

Raise the front with different chopped springs for an overall 2" drop;

Put the whole thing back to stock and get rid of the moons, too.

All opinions welcomed and duly considered. Don't look at my rust, I'm hideous.

[martybose]

I think it looks great the way it is; if it isn't too low in front, leave it alone!

BTW, where did you get the lowering blocks and U-bolts from?

Marty

[Don Coatney]

I have never been a fan of lowered cars. But that is a personal thing with me. If you like the way it looks fix the steering problem and drive it. Be careful going over speed bumps as you might lose the oil pan. I like the full moon caps. If I did not have chrome wheels I would go that direction.

[bob westphal]

Hey! That looks Great! Fix the alignment and enjoy it! The discs look good. I've always liked them. I had a set of screw ons on my 4dr. P-15 when I was a kid. Low is the way to go!

Bob

[Normspeed]

Marty, got the lowering blocks at a swap meet. The U bolts were from a set of wider blocks a friend gave me. The Plymouth leaf springs are narrower than Fords or Chevys.

[Guest dmackustom]

looks too good like that to raise it back up. If you like it I agree fix the steering and roll it til the wheels fall off. As for the moons I prefer a steel wheel with beauty ring and spider cap

[Normspeed]

Well I drove it around for a couple of hours this morning, mostly looking for an open alignment shop but I struck out there. I went in and out of various parking lots and driveways, over speed bumps, just to see if I can live with it. Overall I give it a thumbs up but I wanted it level all around and the 4" drop up front is more than I wanted. Still on the fence, if I can find a shop that can set up the alignment I may keep this setup but otherwise I'll put the stock front springs back in and wait until I can scrounge up another pair. Everything I've done to my car is reversible so I don't want to cut up the stock coils. Bob Amos, I'm wondering if there's a decent alignment shop in your area that might remember how to do these cars. Nothing to write home about in the Glendora area.

[burdman129]

As far as the looks.....I love it, but, you have to drive it. Burd

[Normspeed]

My Hollander says Plymouths from 1940-52 all use one spring type (except 7 passenger sedans, commercial, converts and wagons). my 53 uses a different (probably stiffer) type, same exchange number as most of the early Dodges. Both are the same unladen height. So mine probably would have been just right had I just put in the 50 coupe springs without cutting them. Guess I'll need to get out the old JB Weld again.

I'd like to try an uncut pair of 1940 to 52 coils, so if anyone has subframed their 40-52 Plym and wants to part with the old coils, give me a shout. If anyone is thinking of cutting the coils on their 40-52, we could swap. Local pickup good, these would be heavy for shipping.

[Plymouthy Adams]

My Suburban on the rear has two extra leaves in the springs...

[martybose]

Does anyone know of a source for the lowering blocks and U-bolts for our narrow leaf springs? I'm looking for something in the one to two inch range.

Thanks, Marty

[Don Coatney]

Marty;

Go buy a two hunks of 1" X 6" X 2" steel and drill a 1/2" hole in the center of it. Then go to NAPA and buy U-bolts to fit. Very easy to make your own.

[martybose]

Marty;

Go buy a two hunks of 1" X 6" X 2" steel and drill a 1/2" hole in the center of it. Then go to NAPA and buy U-bolts to fit. Very easy to make your own.

The only problem with this approach is that you lose the locating pin between the spring and the perch, and wind up with the U-bolts being the only thing that positions the housing fore and aft. Having sheared off said pin on a Mustang project many rears ago, I am painfully aware of how far the housing can move even if the U-bolts are tight.

Maybe I'll see if I can come up with a hardened allenhead bolt that I could put through the spring and spacer into the perch.

Marty

[Don Coatney]

Marty;

I also sheared off the positioning pin. Not sure how this happened as my 1/4" plate was welded to the pearch. I was not going for the lowered look. I just wanted stability.

[Plymouthy Adams]

When fabricating your lowering block you can use a chunk of aluminum..drill the hole for the locating pin of the spring in the bottom..at the top dirll and tap a hole..use a allen head bolt as it is already round and bolt into the block..you can position the block and match the everything up...as for u-bolts..these are purchased by diameter..and length..thinking off the top of my head that the mopar is 3 inch axle tubes..buy the longer ones as used by most people that raise the suspenison on trucks..its the same thing in reverse. Once everything is equally tightened you should not have a problem ..I also recommend that you check/retorque these after a couple miles of driving just to be sure all is well.

[Normspeed]

Here are the blocks I used, 2 1/4". I picked up a box of lowering blocks and u-bolts at a swap meet for $10 and the narrow ones were in there. They look old and rough, and have the name LEWIS cast into the aluminum.

Tim and Don, I'm going to retorque my u-bolts before I drive one more mile, thanks for the reminder.

[mackster]

I just removed a set of 2 inch blocks, they are used in good condition, , They come with the U-bolts and nuts, BTW I am just offering them to some one that might want them, we can talk about price later, sorry I did not mean to highjack the tread... PM me if interested.

MKSTR!

[BobT-47P15]

Here is a set of rubber ones to go between coils and raise things back up a bit.

They also made some metal ones of similar appearance.

Out in the garage--somewhere--I have a set of 4 coil spacers bought back in the 60s perhaps.....have no idea where I got them (maybe an auto supply at the time). They look line a short fat screw with biiig threads. Have a square hole in one end so you can use a ratchet wrench to twist them in. About 3 or 4 inches long. Don't know if such an animal would be of any value, but thought I would mention them. Car looks good in the pics. So, if you cut off two inches and got a 4" drop, then it would seem that removing only one inch would get a 2 inch drop.

You might check ebay to see if anyone in your area might be parting out a car of the model years desired, then contact them to see if they have some springs. And---are there any spring shops in your city? We have one here, but I don't know what would be the deal about getting a spring of similar size to the P15.

[mackster]

I'd like to try an uncut pair of 1940 to 52 coils, so if anyone has subframed their 40-52 Plym and wants to part with the old coils, give me a shout. If anyone is thinking of cutting the coils on their 40-52, we could swap. Local pickup good, these would be heavy for shipping.

Normspeed I have my 53 Desoto, and I was thinking about dropping the fron t end, comeby take a look at them I think they might work out whatcha think?

[Normspeed]

Is your Soto a coupe/sedan? If so the springs are the same as a 53 Plym convert and might do it. I'll email you.

[mackster]

it's a two door coupe!

[bob_amos]

Lookin' pretty good Norm.

[Guest mikeys toy]

you probably should have cut the wagon springs, if you are going to lower a car you should instal slightly stiffer springs to make up for losing the preload.

a good alignment should solve your driveability problems, the sway could be solved by installing a swaybar or stiffer springs

[Normspeed]

I'm gettin' really good at coil spring swapping. Today I drove the P24 around, stopped and talked with the local alignment shop, got some good vibes there, but the one guy that really knows the older cars was really booked up today. It worked out well, I ended up looking closer underneath to find at 4" drop I was riding right on the snubbers. Too much. So I went home, bit the bullet and cut a conservative 1/2 coil from my original wagon springs and swapped 'em. Less than 2 hours for the swap this time, it's a lot simpler than it seems. No spring compresser needed. The change raised it back up a lot and it already handles better but still will want an alignment.

So I ended up going from stock front height to 4" drop to 1 1/2" drop. I could still use another 1/2 to 1" lower, to get the moderately lowered but level all around look I want. It's getting so easy to swap them I mightpull them and cut another 1/4 coil off. Not the kind of job you want to do twice in one day though. Soon, we will attack Mackster's coupe.

[mackster]

I can't wait!, I am ready any weekend except next (12-09-06) Because of the great MOONEYES event In Irwindale California. Hey Norm are you going? Anybody else local going?

By the way I am rewiring the Coupe next weekend (sun.) hopefully it turns out O.K.