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Posted

Two questions:

1.   Trying to do a frame off when the original owner never finished. The only wiring that is there is just enough to run the engine. Is this the wiper switch? Any idea how to wire it?

 

2.   The truck has an electric wiper motor, again, never hooked up. There are 3 wires coming out of a pigtail, but I'm not sure which is which.

wiper 2a.jpg

wiper 1a.jpg

  • Solution
Posted

This is the original wiper motor switch for my 51 B3B.  It has a power feed wire connection and three wire connections that go to the motor.

 

My guess is the switch you have is not a wiper motor switch.  Just about every switch on my truck had screw connectors or push-in connectors as shown on my wiper switch.

 

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Posted

That appears to be a later replacement switch, as it has the Pentstar logo on it. Does it have identifying markings for each terminal that may help? You may need to do some testing with an ohm meter, or continuity meter, to determine which terminals are connected at each switch position.

I happened to have a picture of the underside of the dash on my truck that shows the switch, but there isn't enough detail to see where the wires all go. Here's a snip from a PDF copy of service manual, wire diagram. This may, or may not, help you. 

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Posted

Thanks. Guess I should have realized the connectors were different, and some info helped. I took the motor apart to clean armature, etc. but forgot to take a minute and notice the orientation of the arms as they connect to the linkage assembly. Any help?

Posted

Arm orientation for assembly on the B-1 wiper motors is easy...to get wrong.  I am convinced that these wiper motor assemblies were put together with tooling because without some consistent frame of reference, it is easy to get the arms off by one or several teeth.  This is something that I alluded to in that link I posted.

 

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After trial and error, I found that it's best to orient the arms parallel during gearbox assembly.  Leaning the arm pivots on scrap lumber allows the arms to find vertical orientation.  Then add the gears and hardware in the gearbox. 

 

The park feature in the electrical circuit will orient the arms at the correct angle once the motor is energized.  It is also best to clean thoroughly then assemble the gearbox dry to verify correct arm orientation.   Once verified, remove the gearbox cover and fill with disc brake wheel bearing grease.

 

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Operate the gearbox for 10-15 minutes to let the grease work behind the gears, preferably with the motor in the vertical position.  Remove gearbox cover and top off grease as desired cuz who knows for sure how much air should be in there...there is a leather grease seal on the motor shaft that will take that promised article to explain how to possibly replace.

 

Ya don't want to overfill the gearbox or grease will seep past that seal into the windings (also something that I address in that future article).  What I did was cover the gears, which left an air gap.  With operation, the grease moves around the gearbox, sticking to the gears as well squeezing out of the teeth.  After a period of disuse, the fresh grease slowly flows down to establish a new level.  From experience, this type of lithium grease will begin to dry out after 10 years and will require replacement to keep the wiper motor amp draw low.

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