Cooling

[kencombs]

7 hours ago, D35 Torpedo said:

It has the DPCD logo and part number on the top tank. Maybe recored?

Yes, or maybe from a later model Mopar.

[D35 Torpedo]

15 hours ago, kencombs said:

Yes, or maybe from a later model Mopar.

That is very possible. The car warms up much quicker and is holding temp a lot longer. But it is still creeping. Turning the heater on helps a lot. That tells me the rad isn't efficient enough. Looks like it needs an acid dip. When did the fan shroud get introduced on these cars?

[Los_Control]

Just thinking out loud, seems we know your current radiator is not original ..... curious if it is brass or aluminum? Wonder how thick it is?

Is it a 2 row or a 3 row? .....

 

I just checked Champion Radiators, They have a pretty decent reputation.

1952 Plymouth radiator ..... they are out of stock on 2 row. .... they have a 3 row for $244 USD ..... + shipping to Canada 

 

If nothing else, you can use these dimensions from a replacement radiator for your car, see how they compare to your existing radiator.

You say it flows pretty good, fairly clean no crud coming out .... it just may not have enough capacity.

 

Champion All Aluminum Radiator
3-Row Core | Cools up to 500hp

Radiator Dimensions:
Total: 24.5" tall x 23.5” wide (including brackets)
Core: 18.5" tall x 20.13" wide x 2" thick
Inlet: 1.75" Center
Outlet: 1.5" passenger side
Tanks: 3.13" thick (top) 2.5" (bottom)
Tubes: 0.63" thick
https://www.championradiators.com/Plymouth-P15-P18-P19-P20-P23-3-row-radiator-1949-1952#
 

 

I have a very similar aluminum radiator am installing in my truck. Champion charges $70 if you want yours polished .... they look nice in someone else's car.

I'm going to paint mine satin black, will look original enough for me. 

[kencombs]

I know I sound like a broken record, but it still sounds like a lack of airflow.  Have you tried a fan in front of the radiator?   I've used my big floor fan in the shop to do such tests.  Even run engines with no fan, just my garage fan blowing on the radiator.  If that helps, a better fan is much cheaper than a better radiator!

[Los_Control]

Sometimes my reading comprehension is not so good.

I was assuming they were out test driving the vehicle, while driving the temp was still creeping up.

 

That is the real question, are we sitting in the driveway or out driving to test?

Over 30 mph the stock fan is not really doing anything.

 

Our old mopars have a non pressurized cooling system. ..... We like em big! ?

 

Wonder when we started running a pressurized system .... 1960 with the slant 6? I would have to look it up, just a WAG.

Along with the modern pressurized systems came smaller radiators. The big ol brass monsters were no longer needed.

 

@kencombs what about slapping a 6 pound cap on it? Cheaper & easier then modifying a fan.

 

I would not suggest on a oem system .... The heater core has already been recored .... I assume it will accept pressure.

The radiator is not oem .... should be fine ..... what else would need to be changed?

 

@D35 Torpedo Nobody asked if you are using a pressurized cap .... our cars do not use them. What cap are you using?

 

[kencombs]

3 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Sometimes my reading comprehension is not so good.

I was assuming they were out test driving the vehicle, while driving the temp was still creeping up.

When left to idle long enough, it really starts to creep up there. If I turn on the heater blower, it will pull the temp down.  quote from the first post.

 

That is the real question, are we sitting in the driveway or out driving to test?

Over 30 mph the stock fan is not really doing anything.

 

Our old mopars have a non pressurized cooling system. ..... We like em big! ?

 

Wonder when we started running a pressurized system .... 1960 with the slant 6? I would have to look it up, just a WAG.

Along with the modern pressurized systems came smaller radiators. The big ol brass monsters were no longer needed.

I think mid 50s had 4-6psi caps.

 

@kencombs what about slapping a 6 pound cap on it? Cheaper & easier then modifying a fan. That will delay the boil point, but do nothing for reducing the temp.

 

I would not suggest on a oem system .... The heater core has already been recored .... I assume it will accept pressure.

The radiator is not oem .... should be fine ..... what else would need to be changed?

 

@D35 Torpedo Nobody asked if you are using a pressurized cap .... our cars do not use them. What cap are you using?

 

 

[Dartgame]

I'm with Lazy K. Check the temperature using an accurate thermometer. I like infrared digital thermometers, cheapy tool stores have them for little $ and I found they are accurate. Nice to use, since you aim it and voila - a temp reading. Once you know the temp is accurate then look for suggestions as above. Air flow at idle is critical as pointed out by kencombs...

[D35 Torpedo]

10 hours ago, Los_Control said:

 

@D35 Torpedo Nobody asked if you are using a pressurized cap .... our cars do not use them. What cap are you using?

 

It has a four pound cap.