35 Plymouth Clutch help

[rrunnertexas]

OK, I spent a few hours and finally have the flywheel and clutch removed out of the car.  

 

Removing the flywheel was a challenge because of the little spring type washer things that held it in.  I had to use a die grinder to cut the last one out.  Along with the washer more of my hair came out with it!   Where these spring washers a factory install?

 

Looking at the clutch and pressure plate, they look to be in pretty decent condition.  The flywheel cleaned up nicely with just a block sand - nice and smooth and no ridge.

 

Does this clutch look nice enough to put back in?  I'm looking at replacements and see they are listed as 9 1/4", however, this one is 9 1/2".  Confusing.

 

I know the logic is just to replace everthing while it is all apart, however, if it is not bad, my thought was to re-install after cleaning.  The transmission was removed due to leaks and a slight grind going into first gear which turned out to be a broken tooth on the cluster gear set.  Clutch was working fine.

 

Thoughts most appreciated.

 

David

 

 

 

 

 

 

[rrunnertexas]

[rrunnertexas]

[rrunnertexas]

I have never seen the cover/shield part in any of the other pressure plates.  The damage in the center looks to be from the clutch disc springs making contact.  Perhaps the clutch was installed backward for a few minutes and then re-installed the correct way?

[Los_Control]

Myself the pilot shaft bearing & the bushing in the end of the crank would be a given .... replace.

While the disk looks good & seems to have a lot of meat left before hitting the rivets .... could be better to use it then new china re-pops?

 

The pressure plate does make you wonder.

I have taken one apart before ... you measure the springs to see they are still in specs .... you can even change springs for performance use.

You rebuild them or re-use them.

 

 the damage on the center of the pressure plate .... the shiny metal seems fresh.

Around the shiny is rusted metal, I would suspect all damage to be rusted equally.

 

IMHO, that shiny metal is a on going issue, not something that happened many years ago.

 

Possibly you have a mis match of parts going on, you do need to dig further into this.

 

[rrunnertexas]

Los - Ahhhh, the new clutches are from China?  Crap!  Quality control might be all over the place.

 

The damage confuses me - now that you point that out, it must still be making slight contact since there is no rust in the contacted area.  The shield area is easy moved/bent back, so maybe that is all it needs?

 

 

 

 

[LeRoy]

My way of thinking, while it's apart replace all wear parts.

[Los_Control]

I'm no expert. Just saying I have taken a pressure plate apart. I checked the spring heights and the surface was in good shape .... I figure the mechanical parts including the clutch disk are good enough to put back into service.

The bearings & bushing I'm concerned with old dried up grease.

 

 

Of course this is a Ford, but the principle is the same .... This Ford pressure plate is ready to go back into service.

 

 

Your Dodge has some issues, you will need to look closely to figure out what is rubbing where & why.

[rrunnertexas]

LeRoy - yes, that is my thought as well, however, if it is not that worn.....

 

OK, the diameter of the pressure plate is 9 1/4" and I guess they made the disc just slightly larger at 9 1/2".

 

 

[rrunnertexas]

Los - that plate looks very nice and clean after the re-build.

 

Yes, for sure the pilot bearing will be replaced and the clutch release bearing.  

 

I'm pretty sure it is the springs in the clutch disc that made the contact marks.

[Los_Control]

I think you are correct ... the question is why?

 

My first 1949 truck the farmer installed a 1938 engine into it .... That caused me to do some reading.

Seems that in 1935 they moved the starer outwards ... This involved changing the bell housing, flywheel & clutch.

 

So if you were going to swap parts .... 1935 was the year you needed to pay attention.

You needed to swap parts 1935 & older ... or 1936 & newer.... Or was it 1934 & older or 1935 newer? .... This is your challenge.

Never really affected me so I never really followed up on it .... 1935 was the key year though.

 

Why I suggest mix matched parts & why you should research.

 

[Los_Control]

2 hours ago, rrunnertexas said:

Does this clutch look nice enough to put back in?  I'm looking at replacements and see they are listed as 9 1/4", however, this one is 9 1/2".  Confusing.

Is it possible you have a 1936 & up clutch disk installed when you need a 1935 & earlier?

 

[rrunnertexas]

Los - The new clutch discs I have looked at for the Plymouth list them as all the same from about 1933 to the mid 1950's.  I think the difference comes in if it is a Chrysler model which used a larger 10" disc.

 

My thought now is maybe I should just "bite the bullet" and pay for a new clutch disc and re-use the pressure plate after it is cleaned up.

[dpollo]

I would re use the clutch disc you have.  However, I would remove the "baffle" plate.  Not all pressure plates have these and it has clearly been rubbing on the damper springs, which makes a lot of noise when the clutch is disengaged.  The spring washers that caused you grief are not original but a flat non split lock washer was used.  A regular split lock washer could be used also.  Check the  pilot bushing and re lubricate, sparingly with wheel bearing grease.

[keithb7]

That is a Borg & Beck clutch assembly. Type 9A7, model 955 I see there. I wish I could locate some Borg & Beck published info on what the numbers mean. I have seen a few different model numbers in Mopars. I can only assume clutch springs of various strength are used. Compensating for larger engines, more torque, bigger cars, more payload.  I have a feeling my current 237 ci engine in my 1938 Plymouth that is mated to my 1938 to a stock clutch, could use some heavier clutch springs.