tune up help

[jaguarsurfer]

i went to napa with that VERY helpful list i got from this website to give my 48 D24 a good tune up.

but didnt see plug wires listed. what do you guys use?

also what is all the differences between the listed oil filters?

i plan to also do the water pump and T stats. anything eles that might need to be done while the car is apart?

[greg g]

For 16 bucks you can't go wrong with the universal 6 cylinder tractor wires from Tractor Supply Company. These ara coppoer core wires, that you cut to lenght and crimp on ends for the dissy end. I installed a set of these recently and am pleased with the way they work. For oil filter I have been using NAPA 1080 Gold.

[Dennis Hemingway]

When you pull the water pump make sure that you check the water distrubition tube.

Dennis

[jaguarsurfer]

pardon my dump question but the what tube?

[Dennis Hemingway]

jaguarsurfer, You can go to main web site and look at the Technical Tips section. The water distribution tube section is about in the center of the section. The water distribution tube provides a vital function in cooling your engine.

Dennis

http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/techtipframeset.html

[jaguarsurfer]

will the radiator have to come out to change the water pump?

[grey beard]

Pulling the radiator is the easiest way to get the job done, AND the only way to get the tube out of the block - worth the effort IMHO. I'd further suggest while the tube's out you knock out the block core plugs and petcock and flush out the water jacket - not a hard job and you'll be amazed at the crud that typically comes out.

Biggest overlooked item on tuneup lists is the distributor advance unit - or units - both the vacuum and the centriifugal units need to be checked. This can be done with a timing light that has an advance meter built into it. If you don't have one just get someone who does to do the job for you, but you'll need the advance specs before you try to check them. LOL

[jaguarsurfer]

after looking at it, it doesnt look that bad to get the radiator out.

why do i have to pull the core plugs to flush the system?

how easy is it to tell if the tube is shot?

[Dennis Hemingway]

When I did mine I could only slip a coat hanger in about half way the rest was pluged.

Dennis

[jaguarsurfer]

what does the tube cost? am i better off to just plan on replacing it?

if its rotted out where is the water leaking to?

[greg g]

The tube is internal tot he cast cooling passage. It is a design which features a decreasing taper front to rear and graduated sized slots. it purpose it to distribute an equal volume of coolant to the from front to rear up under the valve seating area. With out the tube the coolant would just flow past the valve area, with the tube it assures that coolant is directed upwards toward the valve seats keeping them all at the same temp regardless fo their location in the engine. If you can find a brass one you can put it in and forget it. Keep an eye out on Ebay. I believe you can get new steel ones form Vintage Power Wagons.

[BobT-47P15]

Here's a picture of that water distribution tube. Some fellow (actually Atlas Obsolete Parts) is selling on ebay the tube and a set of core plugs for $74. Not sure what the same things would cost from Vintage Power Wagons.

The tube is a couple feet long and slides into a sort of egg shaped channel down the middle of the block. Often, the old tube is rusted to some extent and can be a real bear to remove. Several guys have invented pullers.....basically a rod with a hook on the end. Have seen pictures of a LOT of crud coming from the block on these old engines. Unless you know your engine has had this treatment lately, it would be advisable to do it. Once the old tube is out, etc, the new one should go back in relatively easily.

[Normspeed]

The distribution tube is a key part for sure. These motors will run hot, especially towards the back of the motor, if the tube is clogged. Some water distribution tubes can be yanked out with a pair of pliers. Mine was one of the really bad ones to remove, even with the motor out of the car. Came out on two sections, after days of struggling. Sure runs cool with a new one installed.

[jaguarsurfer]

so with the radiator removed you get the needed space(if all goes well?)

[Guest rockabillybassman]

Jaguarsurfer, a supplier I have had a good run with is www.oldmoparts.com

You will really need the grille out as well as the radiator to replace the tube. I'm going to swim upstream here and say that if you can poke a steel rod (like a coathanger) all the way to the back of the tube, then you dont necessarily have to replace the tube. I could do that with mine, so I left the tube in there. Have'nt had any problems so far. This is on a motor that sat for 12 years unused. I also did not replace any welch plugs, as none were leaking. I'm not recommending this course of action, just saying that there is an alternative to doing things the "proper" way. Plus, I'm a lazy sob!

[jaguarsurfer]

im used to british cars and there is never a proper way to work on them....

[Normspeed]

If you can poke a wire all the way back, I agree, you might be fine. A brass tube could still be in great shape, or a replacement not as old as the motor, or the rare motor that always saw coolant instead of gool old water.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have a update on the wires I got from Tractor Supply..while the price and looks are great..ability to custom tailor the wires to your loom...I found today while removing them to clean the engine..the wires after just one year on the car , the insulation is getting rather hard and I am a bit nervous about bending them excessive or in a quick manner..

Has anyone else experinced this...they are copper core wires...