Heater core water valve??

[Alexander]

Hello guys,

Does any one make a replacement valve that can be used on our flat heads?

I am looking for the remote heater valve that sits on top on the head.

Thanks

Alex

[Tom Skinner]

Alexander,

If you mean a Heater Shut Off Valve for the Top of your Flat Head

(Back of Block Carb Side) Yes Andy Bernbaum does phone # 1 (617) 244-1118

About $7 S&H is $7 also. Buy his Catalog its only $4 you will not need to look any further than that catalog in the future.

Tom

[Norm's Coupe]

Alex, go to the engine restoration page of my web site (link part of signature). My original shutoff valve was frozen open, plus it was one that you had to raise the hood to turn on and off. I picked up an inline shutoff made for a late 90's car forgot which car it was originally made for. However, the part number for it is on my site, along with a picture of it in the car. I was able to hook my cable up to it and operate it from inside the car.

[Alexander]

thanks guys, a shut off valve would work, but I was hoping for something i can control from inside the car via a cable. I think the shop manual refers to it as a temperature control valve. In essence its a shut off valve that can be regulated by way of cable. Norm, I could not find what you were referring to on your page.

I have seen these pop up on ebay from time to time but they are pricey. I was hoping for an of the shelf pluming fixture that would do the same.

Thanks

Alex

[rearview]

Alexander... try

http://www.indfloorcoating-repair.com/1948plymouthenginerestoration.html

on Norm's site

Bob

[Norm's Coupe]

Alex, go to the link Bob posted. It's all the way at the bottom of the page.

[Alexander]

Thanks Bob

Norm, very nice! This is just about what I am looking for, however I am hoping for something that would be more of a direct fit. Very clever otherwise.

Thank you

[Norm's Coupe]

Alex,

The valve in the head is the original one (at least was there when I bought the car) and was the one that was frozen open. I just left it there and cut the heater hose and spliced that valve in. It doesn't move when you open and close the valve. The bracket the cable is fastened to is part of the new valve. Was the closest thing we could come up with at the parts store in their catalog.

[rearview]

If you're trying to keep your car all original, get a stock one, but if you're looking for function, Norm's is better. I picked up a NOS one recently to replace my old one and the operation is still less that ideal

[Alexander]

like most of us I want the best of both worlds. I understand its not always possible. rearview, where did you get the orginal one? what do they normaly cost?

Norm- I just might use your approuch if i can not find something of a direct fit.

Thanks for all the ideas.

Alex

[rearview]

I stumbled across mine on ebay... someone misspelled the title, so nobody bid and I got it for only a couple bucks. But I was looking for a couple months

[Normspeed]

Norm, I installed my heater today, all went well except the seal is bad in the control valve. I see the valve you used, reasonably priced at rock auto. They describe it as a vacuum controlled valve but it looks cable actuated like yours. Is this what yours looks like? Does it fit the stock 5/8" heater hose ok?

[Norm's Coupe]

Norm, I installed my heater today, all went well except the seal is bad in the control valve. I see the valve you used, reasonably priced at rock auto. They describe it as a vacuum controlled valve but it looks cable actuated like yours. Is this what yours looks like? Does it fit the stock 5/8" heater hose ok?

Norm, the picture you posted looks like mine, hard to tell for sure though. Mine fit the standard 5/8" hose. Below is a close up of mine. Part numbers are listed on this link at the bottom of the page. http://www.indfloorcoating-repair.com/1948plymouthenginerestoration.html The picture also shows how I attached the cable to it. Actually, the bracket looks a little different on mine than on your picture. Could be just the picture too.

[Normspeed]

I went ahead and ordered one. $20 including shipping. I think I can even install it in the stock location on my 53 and use my stock control cable which has a loop on the end. Thanks for posting the part number. Rockauto has it in stock.

[Norm's Coupe]

Norm, that's good. Mine was only about $20 too. I used my stock cable too, just had to make that loop on the end.

[Normspeed]

Did you also make the silver collar setup?

[Jerry Roberts]

I looked at heater control valves at the wrecking yard , where I looked at many varieties that were corroded . I chose a plastic one from a 1989 toyota pickup . ( blasphemy )

[Norm's Coupe]

Did you also make the silver collar setup?

Sort of. I bought the collar, removed the set screw, then replaced it with a regular screw and two nuts like you see in the picture. That was just hardware store stuff. All the pieces are stainless.

[Don Coatney]

I went the cheap way and simply installed a manual ball valve that I already had.

[Plymouthy Adams]

mine was not so cheap but not near as expensive as a reman or NOS..it is from a later model Dodge truck..manual control with the inlet and outlet side by side which is what my 51-54 Plymouths are styled like.

[HughForrest]

The heater valve from a 1969 Ford 1/2 ton pickup is just the same as Norms. $14 today at my local Kragen/Checker/Shucks. Was $25 for the same thing at another parts store so shop around.

[Norm's Coupe]

Hugh,

When I found mine in the catalog at the parts store, it said it was for some late 90's van. So, it's interesting that it's just like the 69 Fords.

As for shopping around, I don't normally do that for something like this as long as it's not way over priced. Shopping around takes too much time to save 4 or $5. I hate shopping for anything. Plus, no matter what you pay for something, as soon as you buy it, it seems you'll always find it cheaper afterward someplace else.

That said, if it's something I really don't need but would be nice to have, I'll look around a little while out looking for something else. Like the over priced P15 clock when I wanted one. Now, I really don't care about a P15 clock, but if I find one for about $30 or so I'd probably buy it. So, when at a swap meet I will look for one, but won't go out of my way to do it.

[Normspeed]

Well, I finished up the rest of my heater install and went for a ride. Works great, but I'll want to install the control valve when it comes in, so I can turn it off. Meanwhile I took Darin's tip and moderated the heat with the cowl vent. While I was at it, I lubed all the cables with motorcycle cable lube with teflon. Wow! What an improvement. Those old metal clad cables are easy to lube, just use a rag for backing, and spray the lube on the outside, it sinks right in. The cable controls have never worked so smoothly.

I used a '50 blower motor donated by Tony C, it runs better than my old one and it has a neat little cotton oiler wick on the bottom bearing.

[62rebelP23]

i like the manual ball valve! it could be made to operate with a cable also; take a little engineering and fabricating. there's my favorite part of fiddling with old cars in general; being able to make what i need instead of standing in line at the dealership and handing over my 401k.

[Normspeed]

I did locate a fellow out my way that rebuilds vintage heater controls to new condition. He was mentioned on the Imperial forum. From what I gather, his probably run near $100 and are worth it if you want quality original stuff. I feel lucky getting off for only $20.