Fabricating #3, #4 and #5 attachment points for the P-15 floor braces.

[NickPickToo]

My solution for fabricating a floor brace attachment #3.  This is a universal brace PN802 from EMS

 

It almost makes itself.  Just need to fab the sides and this will splice into the floor brace system that was original to the car.  

Edited June 30, 2020 by NickPickToo

[NickPickToo]

This is the solution from the same part for attachment points #4 and #5.  Also shows how I plan to splice it into the original brace structure.

 

Not quite as clean as the solution for #3, because I cut notches for the bolts from the frame mount, but it works.  These were the smallest aftermarket braces I could find.  Ideally I would have found a brace the same width as the original.  On the positive side, the wider brace will cradle the original brace structure when I splice it in.

 

 

Edited June 30, 2020 by NickPickToo

[poor454]

Did you use the same bolt size to mount the body? if so do you happen to know the size? thanks Dave

[NickPickToo]

On 7/6/2020 at 5:22 PM, poor454 said:

Did you use the same bolt size to mount the body? if so do you happen to know the size? thanks Dave

Same as original for diameter and thread count (3/8 - 24), but won't be able to confirm lengths until I get it mounted.   The original hardware was shot so we are working on a fab which may end up changing the lengths of the bolts.  Washers, nuts and rubber pads are no real issue but we can't locate the sleeves used for these so that will take some thinking.  I'll post pictures as we progress.

Edited July 9, 2020 by NickPickToo

[Frank Elder]

Brilliant!

[poor454]

On 7/8/2020 at 8:54 PM, NickPickToo said:

Same as original for diameter and thread count (3/8 - 24), but won't be able to confirm lengths until I get it mounted.   The original hardware was shot so we are working on a fab which may end up changing the lengths of the bolts.  Washers, nuts and rubber pads are no real issue but we can't locate the sleeves used for these so that will take some thinking.  I'll post pictures as we progress.

I bought the rubber body mounts. They do not come with the metal inserts, but i have the original ones. they seem like they do not fit in them. I was just going to put the bolt through the rubber mounts into the body. What do you think? I have some rusted floor pans. where do you recommend to get them from?

Edited July 22, 2020 by poor454
add more content

[NickPickToo]

5 hours ago, poor454 said:

I bought the rubber body mounts. They do not come with the metal inserts, but i have the original ones. they seem like they do not fit in them. I was just going to put the bolt through the rubber mounts into the body. What do you think?

I have a few of the originals that made it through the tear down, but most were rusted fused to the bolts.  You're way ahead if you saved them all.  Try a little lube.  Avoid natural motor oil anything that will eat up the rubber over time.  Don't be afraid to apply a lot of pressure.  that rubber mounts won't split.   I just dip it in some extra AMSoil gear lube (synthetic won't eat up the rubber) we have left over.  You can also get sleeves of different lengths from the hardware shop but without the washer top.  I may end up tacking the sleeve to the washer with either my mig or some metal adhesive, or may just let it float (washer and sleeve remain separate).  I think having the metal sleeve is better than leaving it out.  It will help reduce ware on the rubber mount.  No experience or evidence on that though,  just thinking out loud.  Having a tight fit is not a bad thing.  The mounts are there to absorb impact and allow some flexibility for the body.  As long as your solution avoids metal on metal at those points its probably better to be a tight fit.  Again, just thinking out loud.

Edited July 21, 2020 by NickPickToo

[poor454]

18 hours ago, NickPickToo said:

I have a few of the originals that made it through the tear down, but most were rusted fused to the bolts.  You're way ahead if you saved them all.  Try a little lube.  Avoid natural motor oil anything that will eat up the rubber over time.  Don't be afraid to apply a lot of pressure.  that rubber mounts won't split.   I just dip it in some extra AMSoil gear lube (synthetic won't eat up the rubber) we have left over.  You can also get sleeves of different lengths from the hardware shop but without the washer top.  I may end up tacking the sleeve to the washer with either my mig or some metal adhesive, or may just let it float (washer and sleeve remain separate).  I think having the metal sleeve is better than leaving it out.  It will help reduce ware on the rubber mount.  No experience or evidence on that though,  just thinking out loud.  Having a tight fit is not a bad thing.  The mounts are there to absorb impact and allow some flexibility for the body.  As long as your solution avoids metal on metal at those points its probably better to be a tight fit.  Again, just thinking out loud.

I am missing a couple of sleeves. So we are doing exactly what you said. We are going to get the sleeves and washers from the hardware store and tack them together.

Where are you getting all of the rubber stuff from? 

[casper50]

Nick do your metal inserts look like a round tube with a large washer on top?  If so I couldn't find any either and made mine from steel tubing and large washers of the correct size.  I would post photos but they seem to have been lost since Canon changed services.

[NickPickToo]

4 hours ago, casper50 said:

Nick do your metal inserts look like a round tube with a large washer on top?  If so I couldn't find any either and made mine from steel tubing and large washers of the correct size.  I would post photos but they seem to have been lost since Canon changed services.

That's it, and that's basically how we plan to approach it.  I'll post pics. 

 

5 hours ago, poor454 said:

I am missing a couple of sleeves. So we are doing exactly what you said. We are going to get the sleeves and washers from the hardware store and tack them together.

Where are you getting all of the rubber stuff from? 

Post pics.  It would be great to leave a trail for the next person who finds one of these rotting out in a barn somewhere.  Rubber from Steele.  

Edited July 22, 2020 by NickPickToo

[NickPickToo]

Braces bolted in place.  Now need to weld in firmly, add the sides to the #3 attachments and seal up the cracks.   Agree its not very attractive, but its firm and solid on the frame even before welding in place.

[NickPickToo]

Keeping this record going to the end.    This is the floor after Por-15 base, Por-15 top coat and then Por-15 undercoating

 

 

[Bob Ritter]

Great job, really looks good. Just finished the front floor sections and side braces, inner rockers, upper rocker plates on a 1948 Plymouth convertible and though I had a lot work- you made what I did look play. Thanks for all the pictures.