Ulu Posted April 7, 2020 Report Posted April 7, 2020 I want a top notch proportioning valve that has a good range of adjustment, but I've never bought one. I need advice. How sensitive is it to the actual brakes used? My P15 always had the original brakes, and I do not intend to keep the stock brakes for the next rollout. Complete new discs/drums/master/lines/hoses...everything. The master cyl will stay under the floor and I will make pedals as required. I will have a remote reservoir, plumbed to the new master cyl. and placed somewhere higher on the body. If you haven't seen the sketch in my P-15 two-seat Roadster thread, I'm planning to cut this rust bucket apart and alter it radically. I don't know what the weight distribution will eventually be but it'll change, so I'm hoping I won't have to be spot on when choosing the actual brakes. Or the valve. Also, I don't need boutique brakes like Wilwood or Brembo. I plan to buy typical production rears and fronts, designed for a slightly lighter car. And I am certain it will be lighter. Quote
Sniper Posted April 7, 2020 Report Posted April 7, 2020 I typically like to use the combination valve from the brake donor. On my musclecar era Mopars I usually put the 111.75" discs and 11" drums with the combination valve from an M body (Diplomat) cop car. Works real good. My 51 will probably end up with 4 wheel discs and if I need a proportioning valve I will probably go with one of Wilwood's offerings. Quote
Ulu Posted April 7, 2020 Author Report Posted April 7, 2020 I wasn't actually hoping to get front and rears from the same car to work on my car. Quote
Dartgame Posted April 7, 2020 Report Posted April 7, 2020 I've not noticed much difference in adjustable proportioning valves. If it make you feel more secure use a name brand, wilwood etc. Plumb it into the rear brake line after the master cylinder. Quote
Ulu Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Posted April 8, 2020 I was hoping to find a good brand without having to pay a premium price or wind up with a piece of leaky Chinese junk with a spring that fatigues too soon. I am used to quality American car parts but I haven’t bought American stuff in so long that I’m afraid of what junk might be on the market. We’ve driven nothing but Toyotas here for the past 12 years. Very little need to buy parts for those cars. The one place that I Seriously do not want to see Chinese writing is on my brake parts. I am a confirmed autoxenophobe When it comes to my brakes and tires. 1 Quote
Sniper Posted April 8, 2020 Report Posted April 8, 2020 Here's the link to Wilwood's offerings. https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves Show me where your no name brand has similar data available for the end user. Also note that the price is very reasonable too. Made in USA, too. Quote
James_Douglas Posted April 8, 2020 Report Posted April 8, 2020 I cannot remember if I used a Wilwood or something else. But here a photos of it and I have been using it for a decade. Also, the rear plug on the master cylinder will screw into the top. If a single hole plug you just round a line up to the fire wall and you attach a remote fill of your choice. If a two hole, you can plug one and use the the other. James. Quote
Ulu Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Posted April 8, 2020 1 hour ago, Sniper said: Here's the link to Wilwood's offerings. https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves Show me where your no name brand has similar data available for the end user. Also note that the price is very reasonable too. Price is OK. It looks like a nice part except for maybe the plastic knob. A hex head cap screw would be better. Yeah, you need the hex key, but no plastic is a bonus for longevity. I wasn't looking for a cheapo part. I was hoping for a really common, well known, part from one of the major US suppliers. Maybe it doesn't exist. Quote
Ulu Posted April 8, 2020 Author Report Posted April 8, 2020 25 minutes ago, James_Douglas said: I cannot remember if I used a Wilwood or something else. But here a photos of it and I have been using it for a decade. Also, the rear plug on the master cylinder will screw into the top. If a single hole plug you just round a line up to the fire wall and you attach a remote fill of your choice. If a two hole, you can plug one and use the the other. Thank you for the photo. I believe I am going to ditch the stock master and put a more modern dual circuit system in. I'll have to move the pedals no matter what I do, But I intend to keep them on the floor. Quote
Sniper Posted April 8, 2020 Report Posted April 8, 2020 4 hours ago, Ulu said: Price is OK. It looks like a nice part except for maybe the plastic knob. A hex head cap screw would be better. Yeah, you need the hex key, but no plastic is a bonus for longevity. I wasn't looking for a cheapo part. I was hoping for a really common, well known, part from one of the major US suppliers. Maybe it doesn't exist. What, exactly, about Wilwood doesn't qualify? In the racing/hotrodding/performance world no one is more well known than Wilwood. If you were hoping to find an OEM adjustable proportion valve from the likes of Ford/GM/Chrysler, etc, no such animal. I know Chrysler had a valve mechanically connected to the rear suspension of it's minivans to compensate for load, but that would be a trick to adapt adn I don;t recall if it was adjustable or just had a loaded/unloaded setting. BTW, pretty sure the knob is aluminum. Quote
Ulu Posted April 9, 2020 Author Report Posted April 9, 2020 Well then, if it doesn't exist it doesn't exist. If it did, Wilwood wouldn't need to build it. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.