zHxIxPxPxIxEz Posted January 22, 2020 Report Posted January 22, 2020 Hello, I had my engine rebuilt 4 years ago, as i did not have the space for it. After chasing down pictures for proper oil plumbing, and then still not having pressure.I realized the rebuilder messed up the oil plumbing. He forgot to put the pump outlet pipe on. I now realiz the rebuilder also messed up the plumbing for the coolant. I only just put this engine back in my car. The rebuilder is not awnsering phone calls. So anyways, I fired up the engine, got oil pressure. she ran great! i thought all was good. When i went to drain the system to pull the radiator( it has a minor leak), and fix some other issues. I noticed i did not get all 4 of my gallons of coolant out. So I pulled the plug on the side of the block. nothing came out. Does anyone have pictures or drawings of the coolant passages that can help me figure out where i am plugged? I refilled the radiator and ran it with the side open and nothing left the system. Thanks. Quote
JBNeal Posted January 22, 2020 Report Posted January 22, 2020 The coolant passages go around the combustion chamber in the block and the head, with a water distribution tube channeling coolant from the water pump throughout the block under the valve area. The drain near the distributor is on the water jacket side, which is notorious for collecting sludge for lack of turbulent flow in the coolant. It might be possible that drain has clogged already, and the block is nearly full of coolant. Ya might need to remove that drain and snake out the area with a stiff wire like a coat hanger...this is why I do preliminary testing with straight water, it's cheaper to cleanup while working bugs out of the system Quote
zHxIxPxPxIxEz Posted January 22, 2020 Author Report Posted January 22, 2020 (edited) 9 hours ago, JBNeal said: The coolant passages go around the combustion chamber in the block and the head, with a water distribution tube channeling coolant from the water pump throughout the block under the valve area. The drain near the distributor is on the water jacket side, which is notorious for collecting sludge for lack of turbulent flow in the coolant. It might be possible that drain has clogged already, and the block is nearly full of coolant. Ya might need to remove that drain and snake out the area with a stiff wire like a coat hanger...this is why I do preliminary testing with straight water, it's cheaper to cleanup while working bugs out of the system Thanks, I guess i figgured the hot tank would have taken care of that. between the posible vaccum, and crud. i can see why water wouldnt want to come out! I just wanted to make sure there wasnt some dumb pipe or strange spot that the hot tankers could have plugged up Edited January 22, 2020 by zHxIxPxPxIxEz Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 22, 2020 Report Posted January 22, 2020 NEVER think or assume a block that is hot tanked and returned to you or your machinist is clean...they usually are not and while a lot of sludge and crud has been removed in the process....also as much has been softened and not yet to the point it will break free or flow. You need some agitation, higher pressure water blasts and detergents to aid in the final cleaning. Even after all this, you now get to start your detailed hand cleaning of the block. The drain is lower than the core plugs...the normal access for blocks to drain and be flushed. The sediments are well below the core hole line along the block and why you are probably not lowing at the drain. Unfortunately, you must now intervene, and as this was returned in this condition, what do you supposed was done at the upper end of the block in area of the distribution tube. Was it removed prior to the hot tank process and what is its condition now. Quote
JBNeal Posted January 22, 2020 Report Posted January 22, 2020 There are passages that lead from the head to the block that can also get clogged...ya might need to monitor the uniformity of heating in the block and head once put back together, employing an infrared thermometer would be very helpful...this can pinpoint if there are any hotspots in the castings, or if any abnormally cool areas exist that could indicate a coolant passage being blocked...areas to watch are the head near the firewall and the block near the starter, I have heard of heads clogging up there and have seen sludge halfway up the upper welch plug as these areas are the farthest away from the water pump... Quote
zHxIxPxPxIxEz Posted January 28, 2020 Author Report Posted January 28, 2020 Plymouthy you were right! it was still dirty. thanks Quote
zHxIxPxPxIxEz Posted January 28, 2020 Author Report Posted January 28, 2020 Plymouthy you were right! it was still dirty. thanks when i started her up, i used an infared gun and everything looked consistant for heat thanks guys Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 28, 2020 Report Posted January 28, 2020 good deal...many folks assume the block is clean when it is returned from the tank....I have seen newly rebuilt wiped in just a short time of operation due to shaving and such not cleaned out of the passages when building process started.....ALWAYS hand clean that pig...multiple times... Quote
zHxIxPxPxIxEz Posted February 19, 2020 Author Report Posted February 19, 2020 On 1/28/2020 at 2:09 PM, Plymouthy Adams said: good deal...many folks assume the block is clean when it is returned from the tank....I have seen newly rebuilt wiped in just a short time of operation due to shaving and such not cleaned out of the passages when building process started.....ALWAYS hand clean that pig...multiple times... This is a better safe situation. I would have never guessed. thanks Quote
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