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1938 Dodge RC Pickup Build


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Removed splash pans under the frame around bottom of engine area.

 

Removed bump stops under the frame and splash pans.

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Removed brake lines and fuel line from around bottom of engine area.

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Remove the front shock absorbers.

 

Tried to disassemble lower end of the pitman arm.  Too difficult to back off internal end nut.

 

Tried to disassemble upper end of the pitman arm.  Too difficult to back off internal splines on the gear shaft.

 

Finally disassembled the ball joint at the wheel end of the drag link.

 

Removed the entire steering assemble.

 

 

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Removed the steering gear support bracket from the frame.

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Removed remaining brake line and hoses.

 

Removed driver's-side transmission mounting bracket.

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With steering gear and transmission mounting brackets removed, the front rails were cleared enough to work under the dash.

 

Removed the "Dodge" dash name plate.

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Finally able to remove the speedometer and gauges.

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Removed the wiring harness.  Definitely need to replace it anyway.  Will be getting a new custom wiring harness to run the 2014 5.7-liter hemi engine.

 

Only a few items remaining on the cab.  Dash control panel for lights, choke, throttle, and ignition switch.  One screw still holding the glove box hinge.  Row of small screws to fasten the cushion between the cab and the hood.  Cowl vent assembly, and rear hood hinge pivot.  Soaked them to see if they will loosen.

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Removed the rear shocks.  Since we will be installing an all new steering, multi-link independent suspension, and rear axle, the original 1938 steering, suspension, and axles will be available for anyone interested in the parts.  Also have the 1952 Plymouth Flathead-6 engine and transmission that came with the truck.

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Cut and chiseled the screw heads from the rear hood-hinge pivot and glove-box hinge.

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Removed the rear bump stops that I forgot to remove with the rear shocks.  Removed all I care to remove at his point.  Basically left with the cab and chassis, plus the few items I couldn't remove.  Picked up the tools.  Cleaned the work area.  Secured the truck to the trailer for transport.  Was going to take the truck to Grand Junction today, but it was snowing this morning,  Cleared off this afternoon, and plan to hook and go first thing in the morning.

 

Well, it's been a month since I started this thread, and started the preparations for the re-build on the 1938 Dodge RC Pickup.  It's also been 20 years since we built the cattle/hay barn.  This past year, we have spent 9 months, and almost $12,000 to restore/refinish the 1989 Dodge W250 Cummins Pickup purchased special-order, brand-new.  We have run out of indoor storage for vehicles.  We have no place to park the 1989, or the 1938, when finished.  We have decided it's time to build a super truck barn.

 

Plan is to build an almost twin copy of the cattle/hay barn.  The cattle/hay barn was build for maximum ventilation to remove moisture from the hay and animals.  The cattle/hay barn features an excellent sub-drainage system below grade, many doors and openings, including eight dutch-style, person doors, two in each corner for escape in case of fire or out-of-control animals,  three 24-feet-wide x 14-feet-high double-sliding doors, two double-hung windows on the sunny south end, two end-gable vents, and three functioning cupolas on the roof ridge.  Need I say the diesel heater didn't warm the barn, but was helpful when directed at the work area, and provided a warm spot to stand in when I got too cold. 

 

The cattle/hay barn measures 50-feet by 50-feet outside, and approximately 48-feet by 48-feet inside clear span.  Height of the barn to the bottom of the trusses is 17 feet, tall enough to tip the largest self-propelled hay stack wagon.  Roof pitch is 4 in 12.  Walls are constructed of 8-inch reinforced concrete, 4-feet below grade and 8-feet above grade.  There is 2x6 wood framing with sheet metal siding on the remaining height of the walls.  Large doors have glue-lam headers.  3-feet-wide x 7-feet-high person doors have concrete headers.  Overhead are low-pressure sodium high-bay lights.  Switches and outlets, as well as frost-free water hydrants are located at each corner.  Even have a telephone land line installed, but never used.

 

The man differences with the planned truck barn will be heating and concrete floor.  Doors will consist of 12-feet wide by 14-feet high doors on each end, and two 3-feet-wide x 7-feet-high person doors on each end for escape in case of fire or out-of-control trucks.   Walls will again be reinforced concrete and 2x6 wood framing, but with insulation and sheeting.  Ceiling will also be insulated and sheeted.  Lighting will be the same, but there will be significantly more outlets.  220-volt outlets will be provided for welding and compressed air.  Water outlets will be sufficient for truck washing with floor drains provided.

 

Looks like I'm finishing this up after midnight.  Talked with a local contractor I've known for some time.  He came out for a site inspection, and took some photos of the cattle/hay barn.  Will start as soon as the weather allows.  Hopefully finish by the time the 1938 is complete.  Might even start a thread on the super truck barn build, if anyone would be interested.

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Leaving the cattle/hay barn.  Put the John Deere away.  Ready to leave for Grand Junction.

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You should be commended for dismantling this fast in a cold barn. I am inspired how you slid the bed off the bd skids. I am going to copy you when I remove my bed. Next, I need to remove my speedometer. I was under the dash today wondering how I was going to start. Cable is good. I am not going all out though like you are. LOL. First thing for me is to clean the speedo and overdrive cable. They are pretty dirty. It has warmed up here. Nice to see garage at 46 deg. I blew it and forgot to remove my solvents. They froze. 

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Delivered the truck to Mr. Joe Jarvis, American Iron Hot Rod Shop in Grand Junction Colorado.  He will be providing updates as work progresses, and I will post them here.  Once measurements are verified, we will begin placing orders for the suspension parts.  Our sandblaster is on vacation for a couple of weeks.  When he returns we will have the cab removed and start with the chassis.  Meanwhile, I will inventory parts removed, and determine what will be painted, and what will be powder coated.  Items to powder coated will be delivered, and powder coating will follow a parallel path to the chassis build.  In addition to suspension and powder coating, I will deliver parts to be chromed.  By splitting the work up into parallel paths, the project will progress faster to completion.

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Picked up a recovered seat for the 1967 Dodge D500 while in Grand Junction Colorado yesterday.  Installed the seat today.

 

Took some wheels and tires for the 1949 Dodge B-1-C-116 Dually to Kwiki Tire II in Hotchkiss Colorado to swap rims.

 

Working on selecting suspension parts for the 1938 Dodge RC Pickup.  So many options to choose from.  It's a bit confusing.  Moved a lawn-tractor trailer full of tools from the cattle/hay barn.

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Took the 1938 Dodge RC radiator and fuel tank to Western Slope Radiator in Montrose Colorado for repairs.  Picked up the radiator, generator, and voltage regulator from the 1949 Dodge B-1-C-116 Truck with dual-rear-drive.  Western Alternator in Montrose rebuilt the 6-volt, positive-ground electrical parts.  Shopping for 8.25 x 20 and 9.00 x 20 used tires for other projects.  Stopped to drop off parts at the neighbor who's helping with mechanical restoration on the 1949 Dodge B-1-C-116 Dually.  Update photos on progress on the 1949.

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Edited by vikingminer49er
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Worked on catching up with documentation of emails, and shopping for next phase related to the 1938 Dodge RC Pickup project.  Preliminary selection of suspension includes Fatman Fabrications Stage 4 hub to hub crossmember kit with power steering rack for the front, and 4-bar kit with matching air bags and shocks for the rear.  Air Ride compressor kit for a basic 4-way analog system from ridetech will supply compressed air and controls for the air bags.  Currie Enterprises offers a Dana 60 equivalent rear axle assembly.   The cool thing they offer is bolt-in axles, rather than the traditional "C" clip, which makes things a lot nicer and easier to work on.  Haven't decided on any options for the rear axle assembly yet.

 

Since I was in the mood for shopping, returned to Montrose to score some good used tires for a couple of projects.  Purchased two 8.25 x 20 tires and 5-hole wheels for the front of the 1967 Dodge D500 Pickup.  Will re-mount the tires on the recently powder-coated, 6-hole wheels.  Purchased three 9.00 x 20 tires on Dayton rims for the front and spare of the 1965 Ford N500 Trailer Toter.  Have a set of four 9.00 x 20 tires from my stock for the rear of the Ford.  Will mount the tires on the 5-hole wheels currently on the Ford, and discard the tires that everyone tells me are past their useful life.  Also, retrieved the six wheels and tires for the 1949 B-1-C-116 dual-rear-wheel truck.  Replaced the four drive tires with some from my stock only marginally better than the ones removed.

 

The Big Score of the Day:  1995 Dodge W2500 Cummins Pickup.  Runs, drives, stops, and backs up; in both 2-wheel and 4-wheel drive.  320,000+/- miles, 5-speed manual transmission, decent interior, fair tires, 1990's paint, and some rust.  Good ranch-quality truck.  Will add it to my list.  Photos to follow.

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Contacted my State Farm Insurance Agent regarding obtaining Comprehensive Coverage on the 1938 truck during the build.  My agent is excited about the project, and has no problem providing coverage.  Of course, he passed me on to one of his employees to start the process.  All she needed was Make, Model, Body Style, VIN, and odometer reading.  Made a long story out of a short question for her.  In the end, sent her photographs of the Serial Number Plate, and the Odometer, along with a deciphering of the images.

 

Serial Number 8191760

Odometer Reading 08690.0

 

Judy laid out some removed parts on the trailer.  Some need additional work, all need cleaning.

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Very cool project.
I have a 38 RD that I’m planning on something similar for.

I'm interested in what you plan on doing to the frame to support the, I’m guessing 400ish hp, Hemi engine. Are you going to use the frame as is? Box the whole frame? Or maybe just box the front half?

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Prepared to take the 2014 Dodge Charger Hemi engine and transmission to Grand Junction Colorado for the suspension build.  Definitely will reinforce the 1938 Dodge RC frame.  Once we get the engine and transmission mocked up on the frame for fitting, we will decide on location and how much reinforcement will be required on the frame.

 

Had to reset the engine and transmission on the pallet to load it onto the side of the 1974 Dodge D600 Cummins Hauler.  Steady snow all morning.  Too slippery around the WeatherPort door for man or machine.  Fell down once.  Included the seat from the 1974 Dodge W200 Drill Truck to take to Duncan & Sons Upholstery in Grand Junction to recover.  Tarped and secured the load.  Too much nasty weather to make the trip today.  Went to the warm house, had a nice soup-and-sandwich lunch, and getting ready for a long winter's nap.

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Edited by vikingminer49er
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Too much nasty weather to make the trip today.  Went to the warm house, had a nice soup-and-sandwich lunch, and getting ready for a long winter's nap.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

That's the way to deal with nasty weather. A beverage of choice might add to the enjoyment also! Personally I like a Rye and Diet Coke in front of the wood burning fireplace.

Edited by RobertKB
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On 1/13/2020 at 2:39 PM, vikingminer49er said:

Removed the rear shocks.  Since we will be installing an all new steering, multi-link independent suspension, and rear axle, the original 1938 steering, suspension, and axles will be available for anyone interested in the parts.  Also have the 1952 Plymouth Flathead-6 engine and transmission that came with the truck.

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I am interested in the shock mounts both front and rear top and bottom.  Please call me at 916-893-5419.  Thanks, Bob

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Woke up this morning to a few inches of fresh wet snow.  Let the weather clear off a bit, and warm the ice off the roads.  CDOT posts regular camera photos along the route, so you can see road conditions before you leave home.  Waited until late morning to leave for Grand Junction.  Elevation drops several thousand feet from Paonia, so weather improves every 10 miles along the way.  Roads were nearly dry by the time we arrived. 

 

Off-loaded the engine and transmission.  Mr. Joe Jarvis, American Iron Hot Rod Shop, immediately started verification of engine and frame dimensions.  Placed our order for the suspension parts with Fatman Fabrications before leaving.  4 to 5 weeks estimate for fabrication and delivery.  Should have the parts by the end of February.  Returned home before freezing temperatures and more snowfall tonight.

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