BobDeSoto Posted December 11, 2019 Report Posted December 11, 2019 I have a 51 DeSoto - two door - with a rubber mat in the front. Let me know if you ever find a new one. thanks 1 Quote
skyhawc Posted December 12, 2019 Author Report Posted December 12, 2019 I’ll be getting well acquainted with the wiring diagrams under the hood while I’m on the mend. I’ll be recreating the harness vs buying reproduction. I’ve wired several vehicles myself, but this is the most simplistic one yet. There have been numerous patched & horrible temp fixes including just wrapping bare wire over a splice, wire nuts & more... i do question what has the 4 terminals below the voltage regulator... looks like a circuit breaker? Since I’m not mobile yet, i can’t trace where these wires lead to. also what would these tags on firewall have looked like originally & contained what data? Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted December 12, 2019 Report Posted December 12, 2019 The large oval is the maker plate that would identify the car as being a Dodge. I don't know what the lower oval is as my 48 DeSoto doesn't have one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-CHRYSLER-CORP-DATA-PLATE-ID-TAG-UNDER-HOOD-ALUMNIUM-1948-1955-RED/252438287412?hash=item3ac67e9434:g:eeMAAOSw-4BXbumh Also you should look at these restoration videos on a 41 Plymouth. He covers many details that are hard to find elsewhere: 1 Quote
_shel_ny Posted December 12, 2019 Report Posted December 12, 2019 (edited) That would be your horn relay. One wire to the battery for power. One wire that goes down, and then up through the steering column to provide a ground when you press the horn ring. One wire to the ignition for power. (horn only works with ignition on) One wire out to the horn. The wire position markings IGN, GND, HN, BAT will be visible on the mounting tabs with a little wire brushing. A search "horn relay" here on the site should provide lots of great reading. Edited December 12, 2019 by _shel_ny spelling 1 Quote
skyhawc Posted December 12, 2019 Author Report Posted December 12, 2019 21 minutes ago, _shel_ny said: That would be your horn relay. One wire to the battery for power. One wire that goes down, and then up through the steering column to provide a ground when you press the horn ring. One wire to the ignition for power. (horn only works with ignition on) One wire out to the horn. The wire position markings IGN, GND, HN, BAT will be visible on the mounting tabs with a little wire brushing. A search "horn relay" here on the site should provide lots of great reading. awesome, thanks for the info! That’s the only thing not currently working, the horn. With the state of those wires, it’s no wonder! The horns themselves work when run power to them. Quote
9 foot box Posted December 13, 2019 Report Posted December 13, 2019 Your going to need a universal hub puller to do your brake job. put that on your Santa list. 1 Quote
skyhawc Posted December 13, 2019 Author Report Posted December 13, 2019 11 hours ago, 9 foot box said: Your going to need a universal hub puller to do your brake job. put that on your Santa list. i have a whole shop full of tools, including hub pullers. Luckily I’m a 4th gen gear-head, so have a number of tools. From basic mechanics tools, engine building, to paint & body & metal fabrication. Quote
skyhawc Posted December 20, 2019 Author Report Posted December 20, 2019 Was at my shop getting a hand pulling parts for someone to buy off a ford motor & decided to check Engine Serial# on the 47... still sporting the original engine. But i believe the carb is a later model one? Carb is 3-95 E stamping? My spare that I’ll be rebuilding soon once my carb kit arrives is stamped 3-83 ps, no clue why my mobile pic uploads keep getting turned incorrectly... Quote
skyhawc Posted December 24, 2019 Author Report Posted December 24, 2019 (edited) Picked up good driver’s side hood release cable. Should arrive next week! still trying to find a good shifter knob. Edited December 24, 2019 by skyhawc 1 Quote
skyhawc Posted January 24, 2020 Author Report Posted January 24, 2020 Still been nursing the broken ankle, but over the last 2 weeks I had my cast removed and put in a walking boot. This has me quite a bit more mobile, and getting better daily, so today I decided to test the Sisson Choke. When temporarily jumped power to it, it will move, so now I'll be ordering some original style wire and making a new wire for it, and building the linkage rod. Hope to start on the carb rebuild next week, need to finish setting up a 9" third member for my Jeep to clear space off my work bench for the carb. I'm still trying to find a shift handle/knob Quote
skyhawc Posted February 28, 2020 Author Report Posted February 28, 2020 Weather in Southwestern Virginia has been quite screwy lately & I returned to work 2 weeks ago, so not much on updates. I did pull the fuel sending unit out last week to inspect the inside of the tank. Was shocked to find the original cork floats still intact. And not surprised to find alot of sludge & sediment in the tank, however from what I could see with my scope, the tank itself is very solid without much rust. i did pickup an original and functional throttle cable to replace my frozen one with a broken knob. Then today I received an original, used Shift knob, from a very generous fellow D24 Owner. It’s not perfect, which fits the survivor charm of my car perfectly. Now I’m trying to locate an original chrome collar that goes over the end. 2 Quote
skyhawc Posted February 29, 2020 Author Report Posted February 29, 2020 3 hours ago, falconvan said: Very nice looking car! Thanks! Quote
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