Wiper set-up problem identifcation? Help :-)

[Thomba48]

I have now taken the entire windscreen wiper set-up of my P18 convertible top apart.

 

The situation: The windscreen wipers do not function.

 

What have I found out sofar:

• The vacuum comes straight from a line out of the actual intake
• When the engine is running and I am putting my finger on top of the intake vaccum connection I do feel some suction. It is not massive - would not compare it to the suction of a hoover - but again, suction I do notice. Should there be more suction?
• Then I have taken the radio out to see the actual wiper motor set-up
• When using the knob - which is connected with a line to the actual motor - I do see things moving. So the knob does not seem to be the issue.
• The linkage is moving - I can move it by hand
• The motor itself - it is now in my hand - looks very clean. I have not taken it apart, but from the outside the "paper? seal looks actually quite good.
• The linkage handle on top of the wiper motor can be moved. When moving I do hear something happening within the motor itself.
• I can actually also hear something like the wiper "was breathing". The moment I put a finger on top of the vaccum inline that "breathing" sound disappears.
• Is that right? How do I know if the wiper motor is working or not?

 

Help - thanks.

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[Thomba48]

By the way - the part number is SSM 120

[casper50]

Usually the grease inside solidifies over time.  Might just need a clean out and regreased.     https://sites.google.com/site/willyscj2ajeep/home/trico-wiper-motor

[DJ194950]

Have you measured the amount of vacuum you are getting with a gauge at idle?  Too low no wiper operation. See your repair manual as to normal readings. Around 15-16 would be good, not sure what the metric readings/conversion is.

If they are about normal it should work but these are known to accumulate a waxy buildup inside them and the seal on the wiper paddle type of thing iside gets dryed out.

Have you tried adding a light oil to the vacuum line and trying with the line hooked up to the car when running and work the on/off slide that the cable from the dash knob connects to.??

 

Just a few thoughts.

I see some replies to this Question already posted as I typed this (I am slow typer!) so my response may now be a repeat.

 

DJ

[Thomba48]

Thanks. The gauge I do not have. But it might be worth testing. The oil issue would certainly be a good starting point. I shall be doing that first, check the result by connecting a vacuum line and go from there. Better than taking it apart ?

[DrDoctor]

Thomba48,

    If you’re going to lubricate the vacuum wiper motor, use ATF, it’ll clean the waxy crud, and will lubricate the insides incredibly well. Don’t use brake fluid—it’ll eat paint. I’m in the process of rebuilding our vacuum wiper motor *I found some great instructions on how to do this), and I’ve fabricated the paddle seals, and the park seal, and have it semi-reassembled. I’m just not too interested in this project anymore, as my interest in the car is ebbing quickly.

[Thomba48]

Thanks. Sorry to be hearing about the ebbing reality. Thom

[rekbender]

Had my '49 convertible out today, so I tee'd a vacuum gauge into the wiper hose. With the cold engine idling (choke still on), and a damp windshield, the wipers cycled about 80 full wipes per minute at full speed. The vacuum gauge read 18 in. Hg or 45 cm Hg. The wiper motor on or off had no effect on the gauge reading. A few years ago I bench tested a rebuilt Trico KSB wiper motor for my '36 Plymouth. It ran at about 110 full wipes per minute at 16in. Hg with no load on the bench, and about 84 with the wipes on the windshield, so 80 may be a reasonable number for a motor in good condition.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[BobT-47P15]

Also.....Neatsfoot oil is good for lubricating and softening the leather part inside a wiper motor.........so some people say.

[Thomba48]

The vaccum connection between the carb and the vaccum booster was disconnected. Still the car worked fine. So what is this connection for. The moment I reconnected the links I started to have massive acceleration problems. So I must reverse the procedure again. 

 

Two questions derive from that:

Is it bad to drive along without the vaccum booster receiving vaccum power? 

Could this be another indication besides the wiper matter that I happen to have a vaccum problem? 

 

Thanks Thom 

Edited July 15, 2018 by Thomba48

[DrDoctor]

BobT-47P15,

   I’ve also heard that Neatsfoot works with leather internal parts. However, I recently discovered (while I was getting ready to delve into my vacuum windshield wiper motor project), that not all Trico vacuum wiper motors utilized leather internally. The alternative material appears to be some type of rather dense canvas-type material with some type of coating thereon. Those internals on ours was so deteriorated that it’s difficult to determine exactly what it was, but if I had to render a guess—leather, very thin leather. I’m using the canvas material on the rebuild. And, if this turns out to be an exercise in futility—I’ll get a 6v motor from Mac’s, and fabricate the connecting bracketry to the car, connect the motor to the central pivot, and the rest is easy. Thx.

[plymjim]

Be sure the rubber vacuum hose is not dried out & cracked. That's a pretty

common source of a leak. I drive a closed car which has no booster. The

booster is probably only for your top vacuum cylinders. Am I right, convert guys?

[Thomba48]

A gauge is on the way, so the testing can begin this week ?