splat1955 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Haven't seen it mentioned yet, but be sure your parking brake works well. Fluid drive Dodge has nothing to hold the car in place when parked other than the parking brake. Well, of course you can keep your foot on the brake pedal. You may already be well aware of that, but just in case. And welcome to the forum. 2 coupes. Business coupe, no back seat. Club coupe. I have the Business coupe. A better example would be Dwight. Club coupe, don't know who has one of those. Saw one on my last trip to "the yard". Hey, thanks for the welcome.....Yeah, I learned about that fluid drive right away.....I only drove it about 10 feet the first day I had it running, left it in first and expected it to stay.....luckily my driveway is pretty flat...it started rolling, I hit the brake and then tugged on the e-brake.....It works pretty well actually, but I think I will crawl under it this weekend and look for the adjustment and just tighten it up a tiny bit.....but thanks for the " heads up".... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm's Coupe Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Brian, Your Dodge looks longer than Don's primarily because of the body style. Your hood is a little longer on the Dodge and you also have the fenders coming into the doors. That's why it looks so much longer than Don's Plymouth, it's just an optical illusion. It's easy to drop the frontend a little, or as much as you want. You have coil springs up front. Some people have cut sections out of the coils to drop the frontend. However, I don't like that method. Too easy to screw things up. You can buy new springs from places advertised in the street rod magazines that are made to any height you want to drop the car. In the rear, if you want you can use lowering blocks or again buy new leaf springs made to the height you want. As for the disc brakes, many of us have switched over to disc brakes on the front. There are kits available from several sources for that. The one I used was all just a bolt on kit. Other kits are almost as easy by just enlarging one hole on the spindle. So if you want disc brakes, that's easy to do on the Dodge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Brian' date='Your Dodge looks longer than Don's primarily because of the body style. Your hood is a little longer on the Dodge and you also have the fenders coming into the doors. That's why it looks so much longer than Don's Plymouth, it's just an optical illusion. It's easy to drop the frontend a little, or as much as you want. You have coil springs up front. Some people have cut sections out of the coils to drop the frontend. However, I don't like that method. Too easy to screw things up. You can buy new springs from places advertised in the street rod magazines that are made to any height you want to drop the car. In the rear, if you want you can use lowering blocks or again buy new leaf springs made to the height you want. As for the disc brakes, many of us have switched over to disc brakes on the front. There are kits available from several sources for that. The one I used was all just a bolt on kit. Other kits are almost as easy by just enlarging one hole on the spindle. So if you want disc brakes, that's easy to do on the Dodge.[/quote'] Okay, that makes sense...I've looked again at my car and Don's pic and I see what you mean.....So tell me, whose bolt on disc kit did you use. Can you recommend some parts places for me to start shopping? I've got some street rodder mags that I can start going through for the springs, but when you get time, I'd like to know who's brakes you used....I'm a big fan of " bolt on". Hey, also, are the wheel bolt patterns on our Dodge & Plymouths pretty standard...are there any other cars that are interchangable? I don't think I am going to do anything with wheels right away, but I can see down the road maybe wanting to find some wheels for the rear that are a little wider, or finding some that I can have widened...I don't want to do that to my stock wheels cause they still have the red paint and the cream pin striping although I don't know for sure if they are stock wheels....any idea? I haven't had anybody touch base on this yet, but I've got some parts that I have no clue about.....If I take pics and put them on photobucket and post the link, do you think I could get you to look at them and/or some of the guys here to take a look and tell me what they might be? I'm hoping also that someone might send me a pic of the clips that hold on the front stainless spears to the fenders...I've got the spear for my drivers side front, and may even have the clips, but just don't know for sure cause I have a ton of small parts that I haven't Identified....Anyway, thank you again. Hope to hear back from you when you have time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Certainly put the pics up. I'm sure someone will recognize what they are. Bolt pattern is the same as most mopars up into the 90s plus ford wheels fit too. No worrys there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norm's Coupe Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Ed took care of the wheel question you had. I used a disc brake kit from ECI (Engineered Componets Inc.), web site http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/index.html No drilling required with their kits and it comes complete so you don't have to look for extra parts at the store. It comes with new hubs and you tell them the bolt pattern you want. It uses GM calipers and pads. You can get the rotors in 10" or 11". Think the instructions say 78 - 80 GM calipers and pads. However, the calipers are the same that's on my Lumina van and my sons GMC van. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Certainly put the pics up. I'm sure someone will recognize what they are. Bolt pattern is the same as most mopars up into the 90s plus ford wheels fit too. No worrys there. Thanks for the info on the wheels....This afternoon I'll take pics of the parts I can't ID.....and place a link here to my photobucket........I'll bet you guys know what this stuff is and maybe can even identify the trim pieces I have...Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Hey, thanks for the website Norm...gonna check it out a little later today. I've posted a link to the parts that I can't ID.....also more pics of my car. If anyone can help me out on what the parts are, I'd appreciate it. The pic with the 2 long black strips is kind of hard to see, I know...but they are black rubber strips, probably about and 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide....maybe 1/4 inch thick and about 18 to 24 inches long. They have holes in them about 6 inches apart. They are cut at an angle at both ends with one side angled much more than the other. Anyway.........anyone have an idea of this stuff? http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa23/splat55/1948%20Dodge%20and%20parts/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 The switch is a heater fan switch. Low med high. The little rubber squares are pedal draft seals. Not sure what that trim is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crosleykook Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 hmmm... but what will my wife say about ANOTHER car? check your private messages... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Seals between the door and the sill mat. Okay Shel, so if I understand this right, they go behind the door panels? Am I reading the pic correctly? And hey, I was looking at my pedals the other day and could see daylight and I knew that there had to be some kind of seal for them.....Guess it's time to put the ones in I've got....This is great! Hey, any idea what type of retaining clip holds the stainless to the fenders? I have one to go on but am not sure what to look for....I don't think I have the retainers though. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 The switch is a heater fan switch. Low med high. The little rubber squares are pedal draft seals. Not sure what that trim is. Okay, good to know.....Ya know, I pulled on my heater fan switch, but only pulled it out one detent, it worked so I pushed it back in.....guess had I pulled it all the way out, I'd have realized it had 3 settings. Thanks man....Maybe somebody will come up with the application for that trim... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randroid Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Splat, My local NAPA has dozens of assorted trim clips, and when it comes time to reinstall my trim I have no doubt I'll be able to pull the ones I want off the shelf. -Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Splat,My local NAPA has dozens of assorted trim clips, and when it comes time to reinstall my trim I have no doubt I'll be able to pull the ones I want off the shelf. -Randy Hey Randy, thanks, yeah, even in this little town, we do have a NAPA store....but I just don't know what the clip looks like....Anybody out there got a pic of the clip for holding the stainless to a fender? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Correct, between the door panel and the door. There are, or should be, holes in the bottom of the door, for the rain water (or water from the hose) that gets past the window to run out. That seal keeps the water, as well as dirt, bugs, snakes,(that one's for Rodney) rain, and drafts on the outside. It acts as a weather strip. The rest of the door area has weatherstrip that gets squeezed when the door closes, but unlike newer cars that have a squeeze like weatherstrip all around the door, there is nothing there on the bottom of our doors.Pedal draft seals will be a pain in the butt. Pedal pads need to come off to slide the seals down onto the pedal arm. Floor has to come loose, as they go under the floor. They stay in one position on the pedal arm and only seal drafts when the pedals are not in use. When you use the brake and the clutch you will still see daylight. Being just a poor "Deluxe" owner, I have no fender trim, but I will be hunting for some clips to put the long strips from the door to the back on J Edgar. My trim had to come off to get at some rust. Clips pretty much ended up in pieces. Should be easy enough to find some if you take the trim with you. They may need to know what size hole you are mounting to, but I think the clips are fairly universal. These two sources are listed in the links section on the main page; Main page link: http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/welcomeframeset.html Fastener places: http://www.rjlautofasteners.com/main2.html http://www.restorationspecialties.com/ Shel.....Okay, I got the idea on the rubber strips....makes sense. Now, about those pedal draft seals......the floor has to come out? YIKES!! Okay, tell me that's not a big deal....pleeeease. I haven't really looked close down there yet, but is there a panel that unscrews around the pedals? Guess I'll have to go out and take a look. Oh, and I'll measure the holes for the clips and take the spear with me tomorrow...got to go to NAPA anyway, maybe it will be an easy task.....and thanks for the sites!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendan D25 Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Looks to me like you have the interior door trim pieces there that may have been removed when/if the door panels were upholstered. Not sure but maybe one of the D24 owners can enlighten us. Brendan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Looks to me like you have the interior door trim pieces there that may have been removed when/if the door panels were upholstered. Not sure but maybe one of the D24 owners can enlighten us. Brendan. Hey Brendan, Yeah, ya know, I've never seen a D24, at least not the interior of one complete before.....did the Dodges have those trim pieces on the panels themselves? Anybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Wish I could tell you it isn't a big deal. There are several bolts (at least a dozen) to take out. No little panel around the pedals. Only little panels on the floor will be one to access the master cylinder fill cap and one to access the plug in the fluid drive. The draft seals aren't a critical item, and don't really warrant removing the floor to put them in. I did mine when I had the floor out to replace my clutch. What?? I gotta remove the floor to replace the clutch? Does that mean removing the seat as well? Yeah, I guess that would make it easier.....Well, here's what I'm thinking.....those little pedal seals look really good sitting on the shelf where there at right now....they may stay there for a bit longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normspeed Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 I just took off the pedal pads, slid the new seals down to the floor, with the open or rectangular side up, depressed the pedal and carefully worked the seals through the holes with a big dull screwdriver. I might have put a dab of light grease on them to make it easier. Took maybe 15 minutes for two seals. That's on a 53, but I think the setup is basically the same. The draft seals aren't a critical item, and don't really warrant removing the floor to put them in. I did mine when I had the floor out to replace my clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodney Bullock Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 I know that removing the floor sounds like a big deal however If you do it a couple of times it's nothing really. It makes doing adjustments on somethings alot easier. I have mine down to a science now it takes 5 min. There are a lot of zerks under there that require grease so don't be afraid. The dodge,plymouth, desoto cars are very easy to work on once you adopt a frame of mine that they are user friendly:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builtfercomfort Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 I've never seen these exact seals - nor pictures of them - but I've seen similar rubber seals and there is often a way of cutting the seal and poking it into place with a dull screwdriver or two, then sealing the area you cut. This won't work for anything critical, but might be fine for pedal seals. Just food for thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 I just took off the pedal pads, slid the new seals down to the floor, with the open or rectangular side up, depressed the pedal and carefully worked the seals through the holes with a big dull screwdriver. I might have put a dab of light grease on them to make it easier. Took maybe 15 minutes for two seals. That's on a 53, but I think the setup is basically the same. Hey Norm, Yeah, I was thinking of trying the same thing...glad to hear that somebody did that and was able to get them on......Maybe I will give that a shot....it's not like I've got a shortage of big dull screwdrivers or grease....I'll let ya know if it works for me....and thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 I've never seen these exact seals - nor pictures of them - but I've seen similar rubber seals and there is often a way of cutting the seal and poking it into place with a dull screwdriver or two, then sealing the area you cut. This won't work for anything critical, but might be fine for pedal seals.Just food for thought... Hey, This was another idea I had thought about yesteday..cutting the seal, getting them under the floor on the pedal shaft and then trying to heat them or something just enough that they might stick together at the cut line......Hmmm....maybe even using a 2 part epoxy or some sort of silicone to seal them back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 I know that removing the floor sounds like a big deal however If you do it a couple of times it's nothing really. It makes doing adjustments on somethings alot easier. I have mine down to a science now it takes 5 min. There are a lot of zerks under there that require grease so don't be afraid. The dodge,plymouth, desoto cars are very easy to work on once you adopt a frame of mine that they are user friendly:D Hey Rodney, Okay, it sounds as though you've done this more than a few times.....Does the seat have to be removed? I haven't really gotten in there and ripped out the carpet yet to see exactly what's involved, but if the seat doesn't have to come out to get the floors up, it sure does sound a bit more inviting..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Keep in mind Rodney has a pre war Plymouth and his floor pan is different than yours. Here is a picture of a D-24 with the floor pan removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splat1955 Posted August 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 Keep in mind Rodney has a pre war Plymouth and his floor pan is different than yours. Here is a picture of a D-24 with the floor pan removed. Okay Don, thanks.....that doesn't look so bad.......I had visions of the floor removal being from door sill to door sill for some reason....Did the seat have to be removed to remove that part of the flooring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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