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Posted (edited)

Hello,

I'm cleaning up the wiring on my dash. However I can't find a clear diagram of the wiring from amp gauge to fuel gauge to ignition switch(3 posts). I have followed the orig wiring diagram, but the 3 posts are not clear, I'm still getting power to the fuel gauge even with the key off? I plan on looking at it again today with a fresh pair of eyes!

 

Ernie

Edited by Ernie Baily
clarity of problem
Posted

first question is do you have a service manual for your 48 Plymouth. This is the first this that you should get for your car to understand the wire schemes. The service and repair manaul for your 48 ply will show you here the wires connect without this it is a heck and peck operation. Also the service manaul provides so much info on your car.  You can get repro manuals and you do not need an original.

 

Please get one as you start to understand more about your car.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

Posted
4 hours ago, Ernie Baily said:

Hello,

I'm cleaning up the wiring on my dash. However I can't find a clear diagram of the wiring from amp gauge to fuel gauge to ignition switch(3 posts). I have followed the orig wiring diagram, but the 3 posts are not clear, I'm still getting power to the fuel gauge even with the key off? I plan on looking at it again today with a fresh pair of eyes!

 

Ernie

Ernie,I can't remember on Mopars,but I do remember the 6V positive ground Fords would show a full tank with the switch off. They would also max out the temp gauge with the needle pegged all the way to hot. This was normal. Turn the switch on and they reverted to accurate readings.

 

Maybe it is just a function of positive ground systems?

Posted

Fords :eek: may be like that but Mopars are not. With the key off fuel gauge should show empty. Temp gauge is not electrical and will slowly move down as the engine cools after being shut off.

Posted
3 hours ago, RobertKB said:

Fords :eek: may be like that but Mopars are not. With the key off fuel gauge should show empty. Temp gauge is not electrical and will slowly move down as the engine cools after being shut off.

Thanks for the correction. It's been so long since I worked on my 42 that I couldn't remember.

Posted

Well, I moved the wires around ! The long post had "RAD" next to it, so I assumed that was were the accessories went. Another Post had "Coil" next it, so the wire to the coil went there and the other post was labeled "AMP", so one wire went to amp meter and another wire to the starter button. I had it before where wires were on the coil post was causing the the coil to breakdown and made the car "spudder" when I turned on the radio & heater under acceleration. So I think I have it resolved. 

Now I get back to figuring out why my overdrive won't engage. The joys of playing with Old Cars!

 

Thanks for the input everybody!

 

Ernie

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