Jim Shepard Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 I need to deal with a leaking wheel cylinder on my B2B. Are kits still available? What's the recommendation out there for suppliers for either kits or new cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 If it was me I'd sleeve the W/cylinders. Getting rid of the iron bore is a good thing if you are keeping the truck.. Rebuild kits nah.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsartain Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Rock Auto list a Rear wheel cylinder for trucks that has a single wheel cylinder. If your's was like mine and was a split system then Roberts, Vintage Power Wagons, or Bernbaum has them but they are high. When I bought mine Bernbaum was cheapest. Sleeving them was out of the question because they were rusted tight and wouldn't come apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 The rebuilders like hagens will get them apart when frozen solid. or I take em apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsartain Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 You may have been able to, and I'll keep that in mind should that need come. I tried doing it hydraulically but no luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 A grease gun is what I have used too in the past. I work on these old mopars for a living and have had to replace several new ones and sleeve them so they last and don't leak....both DOT 3/4 and 5 New replacement parts are such low quality anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 I have part numbers for all the rear W/cyls that you can buy from an Oreillys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted September 18, 2017 Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 On 9/14/2017 at 8:00 PM, Dodgeb4ya said: If it was me I'd sleeve the W/cylinders. Getting rid of the iron bore is a good thing if you are keeping the truck.. Rebuild kits nah.... I am a fan of having them rebuilt. had both my B4D and my B3HH re sleeved, stainless steel. very happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 18, 2017 Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 No rust... no pitting anymore either with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted September 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Finally got into mine today. One cylinder came apart pretty easily. The other not so much. The piston is stuck. These are the back wheels so I'm wondering if they take to honing since they're not a double sided design. Anyone out there ever buy a new unit? Also, for those who have not cracked open your rears yet, the top and bottom cylinders are different. I guess I'll try Napa and see what they say... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted October 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 I received the wheel cylinder kits today that I ordered from Roberts. While I didn't expect exact reproductions, I was taken aback by what I received. As you can see, the inner seals I received from Roberts on the left do not appear remotely close to the originals on the right. While they appear to be the correct diameter (11/8"), the hole in the middle is a little baffling. Additionally, the new seals do not provide a recessed area for the spring to properly seat. Has anyone used these kits? Have I ordered the wrong ones? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I have sent this photo to Gary and await his response... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted October 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 Just had a very nice conversation with Gary Roberts, who called me in response to my email. As it turns out, the rear wheel cylinders are not factory stock/ correct for my B2B. They are the same as used on the front wheels of the same vintage Chrysler auto. The difference is the innards. The truck cylinders are completely different on the inside - a difference I did not notice and that is very obvious in the manual, as pointed out by Gary. Apparently at some point in my truck’s life the innards were changed for whatever reason. Anyway, Gary is sending me the correct “cups” for just the shipping cost. Great guy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted October 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 The lesson here is that no matter how long you’ve owned your truck, no matter how much history you know about it, no matter how correct, original and “stock” you think it is, it ain’t necessarily so... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirebill Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 So here is something I learned about rear cylinders for my B1B purchased from Bernbaum awhile back. Same as stated by Gary Roberts....what is being sold for the rear of the B1B is actually the front cylinders of mopar cars of the same era. Problem is, though, that the front cylinders for the cars had rubber hoses coming out of the back of them rather than the hard brake tubing as on the truck rear cylinders. The thread size for the rubber hose fitting is not the same size as the threads for the hard brake tubing. I got back to Bernbaum about this discrepancy and he advised they had been selling car front cylinders for the rear of trucks for some time and seemed a bit upset that I should be complaining about them. He advised I would need an adapter fitting and he didn't have them. I went on a search for an adapter fitting that would get me from the female hose threads in the cylinder and accept the male 1/4 inch tube inverted flare fitting on the brake line. I ordered Edelman Fitting #265400 from Summit Racing. Worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Two + styles of Wheel cylinder pistons and cups use in old Mopars....Hollow and solid 1-1/8" wheel cylinder cups.... You need to specify the type of cups needed when ordering rebuild cups. Your local NAPA can supply all of these wheel cylinder type cup parts..... if you have a good counterman or know the kit or individual part #'s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Are the push rods different? How ‘bout the part numbers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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