50s-coronet Posted June 15, 2017 Report Posted June 15, 2017 hey everyone! did anybody have to replace the screws holding the rim on the axis? is there anything to know about it? as you may know, the studs are fixed at the brakes. where can I get the new screws the most easiest way? maybe ebay? the problem is that the thread of my screws has gone bad. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 15, 2017 Report Posted June 15, 2017 ok...you using the terms screw (bolt) and stud...as a Dodge in the US you should have studs.....if export and built on Plymouth chassis you could need bolts..so first things first...do you need wheel bolts or wheel studs? If bolts will be 1/2-20 and 10 are going to be LH thread. Same with the studs but for simplicity...replacing 20 studs all RH is easier. Again if studs, check this website after removing and measuring the one you have... http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-778-wheel-studs.aspx Quote
50s-coronet Posted June 15, 2017 Author Report Posted June 15, 2017 ok, you might have recognized, that I'm a non-native speaker. But you're right, what I need are studs. It's not an export car. at your website, I think I will find some. let's see, whether I get the old ones out and the new ones in! I let you know! Thanks!! Quote
1949 Wraith Posted June 15, 2017 Report Posted June 15, 2017 19 minutes ago, 50s-coronet said: ok, you might have recognized, that I'm a non-native speaker. But you're right, what I need are studs. It's not an export car. at your website, I think I will find some. let's see, whether I get the old ones out and the new ones in! I let you know! Thanks!! Be careful before you remove studs if it is your first time. When you are removing the left side studs, on a left hand drive car and if they are original rims, will be loosened by turning the bolts clockwise. The bolts on the right side rims will be be loosened by turning counter clockwise. A lot of the original style bolts had an R and an L marked on the head of the bolt so you don't mix them up on opposite sides Quote
50s-coronet Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Posted June 20, 2017 On 15.6.2017 at 8:16 PM, 1949 Goat said: When you are removing the left side studs, on a left hand drive car and if they are original rims, will be loosened by turning the bolts clockwise. The bolts on the right side rims will be be loosened by turning counter clockwise. Yes, correct! They are on the driver's side and open clockwiese. That's where I am now. You can see the outer disk that turns with the wheel and the 5 studs with the bad thread. Quote
50s-coronet Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Posted June 20, 2017 The next step might be to take off the outer disk. I suppose, it is fixed with the two nuts on the front and rear side of the back-disk. I've also seen, that there is a spring pushed down by the nuts. Is the prestress hazardous when opening?! Quote
Andydodge Posted June 20, 2017 Report Posted June 20, 2017 50Coronet..........if you want to just fix the wheel studs then all you need to do is use a 1/2"UNF Die Nut as that may repair the threads tho' from your pic it doesn't look good, you may have to remove the brake drum which is held on by the large nut inside the dented silver sheet metal hub cover in your 1st pic........you do NOT have to undo or touch the bolts that you have circled to remove the brake drum...they are part of the brake assembly............do you have a workshop manual?...............if not get one b4 working on the car...........lol.........oh......and welcome to the best Mopar forum from sunny Sth Grafton , Australia...........these guys know their stuff..........btw, you maybe able to substitute US Ford wheel studs as they use 1/2" UNF threads, not sure about GM tho as Chevs use 7/16"th UNF and are smaller than mopar and ford..............regards, andyd Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 20, 2017 Report Posted June 20, 2017 (edited) do not mess with the circled nuts in your picture...the cap on the front center of the hub comes off, behind this is the large castle nut, remove the cotter pin, back off the nut, do not let the bearing fall to the ground....once removed, you can then service the drum. The circled areas you have are only on the backing plate. Please buy yourself a service manual and get familiar with the components of the vehicle before going much further to lessen chance of damage to the vehicle or yourself. Maybe someone with a a scanner can send you a scan till you can receive your book. Edited June 20, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
martybose Posted June 20, 2017 Report Posted June 20, 2017 Your photo is a classic for what happens when you drive with the wheel nuts loose and the wheel beats up the studs. You could probably run a die down the threads, put the wheel and lugnuts on, torque them down properly and drive off into the sunset ...... Marty Quote
50s-coronet Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Posted June 20, 2017 In my case it was not the reason for the broken threads. But however, thanks Andydodge and Plymouthy Adams for your good advise. But you can be sure, that I will recheck - better double check before I touch critical parts. Unfortunately, in the shop manual there was no description of how to take off the outer brake drum. Maybe this was too much basic. However, following your instructions, I was able to take off the drum. Thats what it looks like from the inside: Does anyone know, whether this is what it looked like ex factory? A retailer said, that they are fabricated with lug bolts. could be that this was just for export cars. Anyhow I tried to hammer the studs out of the drum but they don't move at all. maybe I'm still too gently. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 20, 2017 Report Posted June 20, 2017 these will require a bit of force, pressing is often best method with base supported around the inside head of the driving stud as it was known in the day to prevent any possibilites of warming the hub...today they just know as a wheel stud....I do not have a part number for the 50 Dodge E-bay did not return a part...you may have to use modern style and buy from Dorman by size by measuring the knurl dia and length and then know you threaded length and use modern. Stand thread is 1/2-20 and 10 are LH, ten are RH...may be good to upgrade to all right hand... http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-778-wheel-studs.aspx Quote
50s-coronet Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Posted June 20, 2017 49 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: pressing is often best method with base supported around the inside head of the driving stud True. tomorrow, some workshops will get a visit by me and the brake drum... thanks again for your advise and patience! Quote
50s-coronet Posted August 30, 2017 Author Report Posted August 30, 2017 Well, it came how it had to come: after replacing the wheel studs I recognized that the brake drum is distorted in a really bad way. this may have happened while trying to remove the studs using a hammer - although I did not apply too much force or at the shop, if they did not unterlay properly a support. lesson learnt. However, the studs fit perfect! for the time being, the damage was limited as much as possible by turning the brake drum just to keep the car running. it was done and checked by a professional mechanics. but as soon as possible I need a new brake drum. if someone has one, let me know! see also my other post: However, thank you so far for your kind support. Quote
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