shorten driveshaft Shorten Driveshaft

[Lloyd]

I am trying to measure my driveshaft to get it shortened. Never done it.. I noticed these ball & trunnion u-joints have some spring loaded give to them. Do I measure from the mounting surfaces of each u-joint, end to end. Or do I measure then add a bit for compressing the u-joints into place fore and aft. How much to add?

If I need to replace the u-joints sometime down the road I guess the new u-joints will be the same length?

 

[48ply1stcar]

Why are you shortening the the drive shaft?

Also, if you are contemplating new u-joints, do it now when you change the driveshaft.  I plan on having these guys make my drive shaft.http://www.aadriveline.com/Driveshafts.php

 

 

[Lloyd]

Just answered my own question. Looks like difference between original driveshaft length and original trans to rear end is 13/16". 

So the driveshaft compressed 13/16" to fit in. 

I'm going to add that to my new distance measurement. 

4 minutes ago, 48ply1stcar said:

Why are you shortening the the drive shaft?

Also, if you are contemplating new u-joints, do it now when you change the driveshaft.  I plan on having these guys make my drive shaft.http://www.aadriveline.com/Driveshafts.php

 

 

Installed an R6 OD in my 39. It's a bit longer than the original. 

I did consider going to a newer u-joint but believe I'll stick with the Ball & Trunnion for now. If they cause me any problems then I'll look at it then. 

Thanks. 

[Mike36]

Measure how much longer the od trans is than the original trans. Shorten driveshaft that amount. Measure twice, cut once.

[Andydodge]

I'm a hotrodder so that probably gives the slant to my reply but if I had to shorten a driveshaft I wouldn't reuse the ball & trunion arrangement, but use the later sliding yoke style that started to be used in the early to mid 50's and uses the later style and more easily found "cross"  uni joints.......the mopar sliding yoke uses the same 4 bolt "plate" that the early B & T setup uses so it should be a bolt on......I've also seen the same style of sliding yoke in various late model 4 wheel drive vehicles that appear to have a similar 4 bolt attachment.........if its just a stock length shaft etc then I suppose the B & T uni works and for restore points should be used but I've found them to be a PITA & it seems that both the leather and rubber gaiters always leak..........my 2 Oz cents worth........lol.............andyd    

[desoto1939]

Loyd: i sent you a PM regarding the Ujoints kits and hosuing. I have several contact me.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Sharps40]

Order the new driveshaft with slip yoke and spicers.  The ball and trunions will give you problems later.  (out of balance, broken boots, etc.) and you'll just be up against dual expenses.  Google driveshaft specialists out of texas.  Fill out the easy to follow form and less than a week later your new driveshaft arrives at your door ready to bolt in.

 

link.  http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/

Edited May 18, 2017 by Sharps40

[Lloyd]

Appreciate everyone's input. Seems like the majority recommends the newer sliding yoke and spicers. Shopping around I'm getting quotes around $400 for a complete driveshaft ready to bolt in.

I would like to know if a U-Joint goes out can I pick that up at  the local parts store and if so what would I tell them that would fit, or would it be something I would have to order from the same people that make the driveshaft??

[Andydodge]

Lloyd.........I suppose the original mopar sliding yoke might be getting a bit hard to find but I also remember that they were used on the slant 6 engines originally and I think even up to the mid 60's, they were the standard mopar uni joint arrangement, as for the actual uni joint itself these should be a standard size and available at any good parts shop ..........andyd