SSD Posted March 9, 2017 Report Posted March 9, 2017 I've seen in here were people have gone with studs instead of head bolts anybody have info on arp or other studs and nuts ? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 9, 2017 Report Posted March 9, 2017 the studs will require a special sealant tape to be wrapped on insertion....when installing the nuts you hold the stud with an Allen wench then tighten...then on torque you could still have some turning of the stud and possible some nut turning...the possibility of exposed threads of different length could result..be prepared for that scenario also one could still see a bit of coolant bubble pass by a few studs till some mileage is on the engine and it basically self seals, this will not be major nor of great concern but could cause some alarm to the installer if not forewarned. 1 Quote
lonejacklarry Posted March 9, 2017 Report Posted March 9, 2017 5 hours ago, SSD said: I've seen in here were people have gone with studs instead of head bolts anybody have info on arp or other studs and nuts ? From the secret file that the missus will never see (or, at least, I hope not): ARP, Ventura, CA 10/12/16 AP3.750-ILB Head stud- 7/16/x 3.75 Long broached (21 @ $5.38) $112.98 APN58 7/16 x 20 Hex nut (head) (21 @ $ .80) $16.80 APW1316N 7/16 ID 13/160D non-chamfered washer (21 @ $ .98 $20.58 Shipping $18.20 Quote
SSD Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Awesome thanks that's just for the head correct? George Asche built me a engine and I have a v57 that may find its way on that engine, I think a bit more "clamp" couldn't be a bad thing, any suggestions on tourque or stay with the 60ftlbs I believe it is wont be pushing crazy pressure 8 MAX Edited March 10, 2017 by SSD Quote
lonejacklarry Posted March 10, 2017 Report Posted March 10, 2017 Yep, 21 studs, 21 nuts, and 21 non-chamfered washers. I think I would ask George Asche about the torque questions you have. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 10, 2017 Report Posted March 10, 2017 The clamping force is greater with the fine threads on a stud as opposed to the course threads on a bolt. Hence the lower foot pound torquing requirement. If you exceed the recommended torque with studs you run the risk of squeezing the head gasket beyond its sealing capabilities with possible premature head gasket failure. I suggest you stick with the recommended torque for studs. 2 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.