The Plan - '46 Dodge

[Don Coatney]

23 hours ago, 49D-24BusCpe said:

M,

    The head of the bolt is flat and round, shaped just like a nail. Not like a typical rod bolt fastener. Good luck!

Walt

Pictured is a rod bolt installed on my 251 engine. Is this different than a 265 engine rod bolt? Can you post a photo?

[49D-24BusCpe]

Don,

    Yes, your 251" rod bolt is VERY different than a 265" one!

    Both my 265" engines are assembled, and my other spare I've given to a friend. I'll see if I can get pictures of one of those 265" rod/bolt assemblies.

Walt

[Don Coatney]

On 3/29/2017 at 6:53 PM, 49D-24BusCpe said:

Don,

    Yes, your 251" rod bolt is VERY different than a 265" one!

    Both my 265" engines are assembled, and my other spare I've given to a friend. I'll see if I can get pictures of one of those 265" rod/bolt assemblies.

Walt

Thanks for sending the photos. Here they are. Per 49D_24BusCpe these are rod bolts for a 265 Cubic Inch Chrysler engine.

[M.Klapp]

Awesome info!  Thanks Walt and Don.

On a side note, hit the DMV yesterday to get the title sorted and register the truck.  Apparently, since its an antique from out of state it requires a special inspection to determine whether or not we're "road worthy".  Not sure it that means it has to be running, driving and road safe, or what.  Anyone here from NC that's done this before?  I'm not worried, apparently they give you a year to get it inspected, but if anyone has some insight, that would be greatly appreciated.  The "Office" is only open three days a week from 8am to 10am so . . . . .

Thanks,

M

[M.Klapp]

On 2/14/2017 at 5:33 PM, Merle Coggins said:

When you add MMO to the cylinders, you may need a small plastic tube to get the oil to the pistons. The valves are directly below the spark plugs. If you just dump it down the spark plug holes it will just dump into the intake or exhaust manifolds if any valves are open. With a thin plastic tube, or hose, you can fish it past the valves to ensure it gets into the cylinders.  

Merle,

Oh how you were so right.  It was even though getting the tube into the cylinders.  But, I got it.  Will leave her soak over night and turn it over a few times by hand tomorrow.

Thanks!

M

[gramps1951]

I live in nc when I came down from mass. they came to my house to look over the truck I think they did it to see if vin numbers matched or were not messed with had nothing to do as in a safety inspection.

[gramps1951]

If your truck will not run they will come to your home .

[M.Klapp]

50 minutes ago, gramps1951 said:

I live in nc when I came down from mass. they came to my house to look over the truck I think they did it to see if vin numbers matched or were not messed with had nothing to do as in a safety inspection.

 

47 minutes ago, gramps1951 said:

If your truck will not run they will come to your home .

Thanks Gramps!  Talked to the inspector this AM they recommended I get it running, otherwise they give you a Non-Op Title, and then I have to do it all again.  With a bit of luck we'll get her turned over this weekend.  Oil change and draining the gas tank are next up.

M

[M.Klapp]

Oh, and gonna bust our the Borescope tomorrow and see what rod bolts we have (251 or 265 . . . . . ).

[49D-24BusCpe]

M,

    Just pull the fuel pump - I've done this on several engines and you'll find out right away! You can see the rod bolts quickly.

Walt

[M.Klapp]

20 hours ago, 49D-24BusCpe said:

M,

    Just pull the fuel pump - I've done this on several engines and you'll find out right away! You can see the rod bolts quickly.

Walt

Yeah, just don't have a replacement gasket yet.  And, super easy to get the borescope in the drain hole on the oil pan, plus I get to use gadgets

M

[M.Klapp]

On 4/19/2017 at 6:53 PM, M.Klapp said:

Yeah, just don't have a replacement gasket yet.  And, super easy to get the borescope in the drain hole on the oil pan, plus I get to use gadgets

M

Well, got the oil changed today, but light on my borescope wasn't bright enough to get a clear look at the rod bolts.  SO, guess I gotta pull the pump.  I'll get into that later this weekend or next week.  Making progress tho!

M

[M.Klapp]

Got her to run a little today, but only with fuel poured directly into the carb.  Sound like the pump is moving, but not pumping any fuel.  So, think I'll order up a new pump and replace the current one and see if that helps out.  Anyone know if the fuel pump on a 251 is the same as the 218/230?  Anyone using an Aristech 587, loos different then the stocker.

 

One other note, I could not get an oil pressure readings on the gauges, but that might just be the gauges.  It appears to be pumping ad its forcing  oil past the seal on the oil filter bolt.  Question is, what the best place to tap for oil pressure?  Might just pick up a cheap-o gauge at AutoZone or the like.

M 

Edited April 21, 2017 by M.Klapp

[Don Coatney]

Fuel pump is the same. This is what I bought.

[jpartington]

Not sure how the fuel lines are on these years  but on mine I was not getting any fuel to the carb either I checked the pump and it all checked out, all the lines were clear but I replaced them anyway. The problem ended up being the short length of flex hose that runs from the end of the hard fuel line at the bottom of the radiator to the fuel pump, it got so dried out and cracked that it was letting air in and it was not allowing fuel to the pump. So before you buy a new pump if your truck has this piece of rubber tubing  you should check it. Once I replaced it I just had to put some air to the gas tank to get the fuel to the pump now it pumps just fine.

[M.Klapp]

Thanks Don!  And good note J, did you replace it with a factory line (if so what was the PN) or fuel from the auto parts store?

M

[jpartington]

I just bought the premade section with the crimped on ends from DCM

[M.Klapp]

11 hours ago, jpartington said:

I just bought the premade section with the crimped on ends from DCM

Thanks, gonna grab a short section of fuel line today and run it into a gas can and see if the pump is pumping.

M

[jpartington]

YA definitely worth checking. That fix is much cheaper then a new fuel pump

[M.Klapp]

39 minutes ago, jpartington said:

YA definitely worth checking. That fix is much cheaper then a new fuel pump

Just cleaned that rubber line off a little and its crispy.  Blocked or not, needs to be replaced.

M

Edited April 22, 2017 by M.Klapp

[jpartington]

I cover one end of it with your finger and blow air through the other side you'll be able to tell if it has any cracks in it

[M.Klapp]

3 hours ago, jpartington said:

I cover one end of it with your finger and blow air through the other side you'll be able to tell if it has any cracks in it

No need, male end tore off in my hand.  

Hit the auto parts store grabed a fitting and some hose and dropped that in the gas can, but pump wasn't pumping so pretty sure it's shot too.  No big deal, replacement pump and line in order.  

M

[M.Klapp]

OK, got the new pump yesterday, and the fuel line came today, but they shipped the wrong one, so back to waiting on that.

Couple questions I thought I'd ask.

1. New battery is installed, and she cranks, but that seems to be the ONLY electrical item working.

 - So, will the lights work without the truck running?  

- Where, if there is one, is the fuse block/panel, can't find one anywhere.

2. On the passenger side, there's what appears to be a blow-by/breather tube that just dumps on the ground, is this normal?  

- Can it be swapped for a simple crank case breather?  Really don't want oil dripping and staining the driveway and garage.

I'm thinking this motor came out of a piece of heavy equipment.  Has a Cat Yellow oil pan and what appears to be a different, unused, motor mount 

on the passenger side of the block (mid way and just above the oil pan.

Thanks,

M

[The Oil Soup]

2. That would be the road draft tube, can be modified to a pcv system. The "unused motor mount" should be your oil pump. I think there is a breaker on the end of the light switch.

Edited April 28, 2017 by The Oil Soup
Wrong photo on thumbnail

[jpartington]

Lights should work without truck running. The battery is directly connected to the starter so that's why the starter will for sure crank. As for the rest of the electronics, there should be 1 main wire that runs from the battery terminal on the starter to the back of the ammeter (if it is wired the same as a 52 that is) this wire jumps from the ammeter to the ignition switch I believe and it is always hot. This is where the power to all other electronics comes from. If there is a break in any of these wires no power will get to anything else. If you have not already done so looking over all wiring is definately a good idea. These old trucks didn't have much wiring so it really does not take that long. When I got my truck that's one of the first things I did. I got a wiring diagram and restored all wiring back to stock. I found a couple large bare spots under the dash and a couple breaks in wires.