Timing Chain

[meadowbrook]

Hi all.

just installed a timing chain and sprocket set from VPW on my 230 and it seemed kind of tight, I was was barely able to,install,the camsprocket onto its hub when the chain was wrapped around it. Is that ok? 

Also, there are no specs on the manual for the cam sprocket bolts. So I used loctite, new lock washers and 250 in lb. hope that's also ok. 

 

Finally, the timing cover crank seal kit has what looks like the seal assembly to be pressed in the timing cover, and also a felt ring which is too large in diameter to fit and a paper round gasket. Do I need these extra items?

[Don Coatney]

Barley fit is good.You want a tight chain. Torque specs seem a bit high but it is installed so leave well enough alone. Felt ring goes on the engine side of the damper as pictured. Make sure you float the front cover to insure the seal is centered per the instructions in the service manual. Use the hub as the centering tool.

[greg g]

Did you find the chain oiler tube that provides lube for the chain?  You want to assure that the chain is going to be lubed properly.

[meadowbrook]

Thanks for the responses. On the lube tube, it is fine, I even cranked the engine prior to removing the old timing set and if flows well, see attached. 

But on the felt ring, is it inside the chain cover or outside, the old seal assembly had a felt ring but it was within the seal assembly, not loose outside. What is it for?

[Don Coatney]

I installed the felt ring outside of the cover. It acts as a sponge to soak up any incidental seal leakage and prevent the oil from being slung onto the V belt.

[dpollo]

Don is right, tight is fine , it will not be that way for long and that's ok.  Some pulleys/ dampers do not have provision for the felt ring. It is in the kit for those that do.  The circular gasket goes into the cover before the seal is pressed in but it is not absolutely necessary.

[meadowbrook]

Thanks, I have installed it per Don's recommendation and all looks good. Now I have to find a way to jam a large screwdriver on the flywheel ring gear to be able to tighten that crank pulley to 108 ft lb without spinning the engine since I have fluid drive.

i hope the bolts I used hold the cam gear, I reused the originals because they looked good and used loctite as well as new lock washers. I just love how the top of them has the 'DPCD' stamping. Are these grade 5 bolts? 

If all goes well, I am on my way to Hershey the 31 St in the Dodge, I will drive around to gain confidence this coming week. 

Here are two pics of the job.

Oh, and I got a new water distruBution tube from VPW but it sure seems flimsier than the original, see pic. Which would you use? There was som corrosion but not through, and I sand blaster it off, but I know nothing of the interior.

 

 

[Andydodge]

Meadow, when I replaced the crank seal on my 41 Plymouth I found that to undo the centre bolt I used a block of wood and wedged it between the crank pulley and the chassis on the US passenger side so that when I went to undo the bolt the inertia from trying to undo the bolt pushed/wedged the block of wood hard into the pulley/chassis and I was able to undo the nut........to do it up I did the opposite, ie, wedged the block of wood between the pulley and chassis on the US drivers side and proceeded to do up the bolt .......the block wedging it held it tight and I was able to do the centre bolt up to the correct tension with the torque wrench.............BTW .......you ask how to stop the crank moving whilst you do up the centre nut..........your picture shows the pulley hub installed BUT NO PULLEY.........install the pulley then try my block of wood method, a nice piece of 3x4 Oregon worked a treat............lol...........also unless the cam gear bolts had some obvious damage they should be fine to reuse.............regards from downunder.......... ...andyd     

Edited September 24, 2016 by Andydodge

[meadowbrook]

Thanks for the response, I did something similar to what you recommended.