1950 218 Distributor Removal issues

[Kansas_Nova]

Recently when trying to work on my 1950 B-2-C truck I was trying to adjust the timing with the truck running and after loosening the distributor hold down bolt I was unable to turn the distributor at all and was also not able to completely remove it after the engine was shut off. Is there something I am missing here? I don't know much about these older flathead motors. I appreciate any help.

[Reg Evans]

Edited August 12, 2016 by Reg Evans

[Reg Evans]

Well, for some darned reason it won't let me post text after I attached the photo.  So....once you remove the bolt on that tab to the right the dist. should bull straight out. 

Mark it so it'll go in the right way.

[JBNeal]

I submitted the road timing story found in the Resources drop down menu years ago as I had witnessed it as a kid, but there is a specific procedure for static timing that is much safer and more precise...also note there is a gasket that seats into the block, this may have glued itself to the distributor and engine block over the years 

Edited August 8, 2018 by JBNeal
added link

[NiftyFifty]

The collar on the dist that fits semi-tight in the block has likely somewhat seized in that position. A rubber hammer and some PB blaster should do the trick, but just light taps on the side of the distb, not the cap

[Kansas_Nova]

It's been soaking in PB blaster for a while now and have tried a rubber mallet to no avail. Don't want to break it or but at the same time I need to at least be able to twist the distributor to change the timing at some point.

[NiftyFifty]

Try a couple of small pry bars under the plate, or a small block of wood and a pry bar and work around the whole distb....unfortunately there is no easy answer, just persistence and trial and hopefully no error.

Good luck.....last option is a slide hammer with a good hook...but that's likely to bend or break things

[Jeff Balazs]

Or you could get at it from underneath with a length of 1 x 1 and a small hammer. Another option would be to apply some heat at the mounting location. Probably wouldn't need much....maybe a couple of heat cycles and a tap or two? It is probably just rusted up some.

Jeff