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AMP GUAGE


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Posted

an alternator coupled with the amp gauge in early times was a shunted amp meter where only a portion of the amperage is sensed to the gauge primarily for indication of current flow, not actual amount of flow.  The older style detected and reported actual amperage..the wires feeding this with upgrades and usual added circuits when going 12 volt needs to be able to handle this current...remember you are still using components wound for 6 volts with 12 volts..the impedance will almost double the current drain, using a resistor to drop the voltage still has to flow through the ammeter prior to the drop..doing the math..same current only halved at each component.....finding an amp meter to fit in the 60 amp range as is minimum for most alternator and increased circuitry goes is not easy these day...This was later dropped in favor of a volt meter for alternator application.  The basic shunt bar in the old meter is a basic straight bar with a very low impedance...if this is getting warm I would look to connections being slightly loose or poor crimps on the mounting lugs..or you have really exceeded the value of the meter and yes heat is a byproduct of current....remember, an alternator has the ability to put out high current at low rpm unlike the generator that needs higher rpm to obtain the output to keep up with demand..

Posted

early alternators commonly only out about 35 amps, about the same as the gen did except it came in sooner. Later and much more common now seem to be about 55-75 amps and up. Your amp gauge is not built to handle that many amps. 60 amp gauges are common enough but they won't fit your dash, (read round gauges)

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Posted

Thanks for the reply. I guess I will be changing to volt meter ,I sure don't want to see my truck go up in smoke.

I found a auto meter volt mini meter that will fit into the old gauge housing with a little mod. work to the housing.

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