1948 dodge coupe oil pressure problem

[Young Ed]

This will be my last post on this subject.

 

I am apparently hard headed, or the diagram in my shop manual is generic, and is not correct for a Dodge 230 6 cyl engine.

 

If the cover is removed from the the canister, I would like someone to explain to me what would stop oil from flowing to the canister.

 

 

If the cover is removed on a by-pass filter all bets are off and oil pressure would drop. Path of least resistance....

 

Twice I've had issues with the lid on my truck. One time it just wasn't tight enough and the other time a bad gasket that slipped off to the inside of the canister. In both cases after about 2 minutes of run time I had pumped a few quarts of oil out onto the ground. Only difference I should state is this is a rebuilt engine with 5K miles on it and excellent oil pressure.

[mopar_earl]

This will be my last post on this subject.

I am apparently hard headed, or the diagram in my shop manual is generic, and is not correct for a Dodge 230 6 cyl engine.

If the cover is removed from the the canister, I would like someone to explain to me what would stop oil from flowing to the canister.

Plugged fitting or line or no oil pressure. With the lid off, oil should flow out. The lines and fittings are small and can plug easily.

Earl

[knuckleharley]

OK,guys,maybe one or two of you can satisfy my curiosity.

 

While I am reluctant to question the mechanical wisdom (leaving aside styling choices) of mechanical geniuses like Walter P. or Henry Ford,does anyone know what the thinking was back then that caused them to eliminate oil flow to the filter at oil pressure below 40 psi? WTF were they thinking to bypass the filter at low rpms? Trash is trash and will score a bearing at 1,000 rpm as easily as it will at 5,000 rpm.

 

Was it all the Paraffin that was in all the oils back then,and it's ability to clog up holes as big as your thumb if the oil wasn't changed regularly or the car was only driven short distances? I can understand some concern there because the holes in the filter the oil has to flow though are considerably smaller than the block oil passages.

 

Anyone know the real scoop on this?

[mopar_earl]

Ponder this, a lot of cars left the factory without oil filters. Lot of manufactures made it an option.

They only reason I can think of bypassing the filter during low pressure times is to keep the low pressure from dropping that little bit more with the filter in the loop. My best guess. Lol maybe the filter filters better with higher pressure? It's a lot smaller micron than a full flow filter, so it would take more pressure to push the oil through??

Earl

Edited May 20, 2016 by mopar_earl

[knuckleharley]

Ponder this, a lot of cars left the factory without oil filters. Lot of manufactures made it an option.

Earl

I know. I have even seen a lot of industrial engines from the 30's and 40's with no oil filters.

 

My best GUESS on that is it was probably thought that people using industrial engines had to rely on them to keep working,so they were more likely to keep clean,fresh oil in them.

 

I can see the same reasoning in fleet cars. They are maintained by the company garage,so they got regular servicing.

 

Motor oil was mostly crap before the late 1950's,and some people were still using that same crap oil with paraffin in it in the 60's. I remember working in a garage as a teen,and it was common to pull a valve cover off something like a SBC with hydraulic lifters that were clicking,and not even be able to see the valve springs for all the paraffin sludge build-up from older people still buying and using the crap they had been buying for the last 30  years.

 

Y-Block Ford V-8's came out in 54,and they were so famous for not oiling the valves due to their tiny oil galleries and the crap oil that a outside oiling kit was available at Ford dealers to fix the problem.

 

My father bought a brand new 55 Victoria with the 272 V-8 Y-block and didn't have a instant of trouble with it in 220,000 miles,but for some reason I still haven't figured out,he was already convinced that HD oil was the way to go,and he never put any oil in it but the Esso HD oil in the gold cans. I THINK it was 10-w30,and he changed the oil and filter every 3500 miles.

 

I now run synthetic 15w-40 oil in my turbo diesel pu,and try to go 20-25,000 miles between changes,but usually end up breaking down and changing it around 15,000 miles. I bought the truck with 96,000 on it and it now has around 130,000,and I have yet to add a quart between changes. Not even on a trip from Minot ND to eastern Va pulling 19,500 lbs at 70 MPH. I also put synthetic oil in the trans,front and rear differentials,and the transfer case. Once I get my flat 6's cleaned out to my satisfaction,I plan on running 5w-30 and 5w-40 synthetic in them,also. Great stuff.

Edited May 20, 2016 by knuckleharley